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Hey there, looking for a climb tougher than the Kauts glacier but doable in one day...never been, looking for your suggestions
Thanks!

Reid Glacier Headwall is one of my favorite routes on Hood. Continuously steeper than the Kautz and easy peasy in a day. Hard to beat for the steep climbing/approach ratio on Hood.

Cooper Spur? I think that's steeper than the Kautz route (never measured the angles), but the steepest part is not very long. Doable in a day.

The approach (via Timberline) to Reid Glacier Headwall is plowed in winter so the the approach is always the same distance, but the approach to Cooper Spur via Tilly Jane is much longer until the snow melts out later in the season. Also, while I have never done Cooper Spur, I did get a look at it from the North Face and it looks rather dull compared to the RGH.

Here is a link to a Reid Glacier Headwall trip report with great, descriptive photos. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... er=1046887

Is the route stay in until April? We are skiing at Hood in a few weeks. Avalanche danger aside, is the route climbable in April?

divnamite wrote:Is the route stay in until April? We are skiing at Hood in a few weeks. Avalanche danger aside, is the route climbable in April?

As long as avy/weather conditions allow, April is a great time for Hood. My partner and I climbed RGH in April and conditions were such that we roped for the Reid Glacier crossing and then unroped for the route proper once across the bergschrund. Beware that it has snowed up to 1 1/2 feet a day since February without much let up. A good rule of thumb is wait for two days of clear weather after it stops snowing to allow the snowpack to settle. Some experienced climbers insist on a good weather forecast lasting 72 hours for an attempt. Reid Glacier Headwall is steep enough that it should slough snow quickly, but the approach and descent are rather avalanche prone.

Leuthold Couloir is over next to Reid Headwall on the west side and is also well liked and a little easier I believe.

Snowslogger wrote:Leuthold Couloir is over next to Reid Headwall on the west side and is also well liked and a little easier I believe.

Yes, it is right next to RGH and is much easier.

twoshuzz wrote:The Sandy Headwall is a nice Spring route once it sloughs. Though not quite as steep as the steepest pitches of Kautz, it does offer a couple/few variations and more glacier travel than the SS and may be somewhat comparable to what you seek. Definately, though not leisurely, obtained in a day.

Not a leisurely day, as I recall we took 14 hours car to car, with a slow partner an hour break to brew up. The hardest part of the route is going over the Yocum Ridge. I think we belayed only one or two pitches other than roping for the glaciers.

Thanks for all the great suggestions...forgot to mention 1 thing ...plan on climbing late June/early July....probably makes a difference w/associated rock fall i'm assuming...
Wondering if I should find another climb that stays in condition longer...

absinthe52 wrote:plan on climbing late June/early July....probably makes a difference w/associated rock fall i'm assuming...
Wondering if I should find another climb that stays in condition longer...

Probably should be looking at a different mountain. I would suggest Adams Glacier on Mt Adams. Its in good shape during that time frame, has plenty of steep climbing, but most parties will want to take two days.

twoshuzz wrote:

ExcitableBoy wrote:

twoshuzz wrote:Definately, though not leisurely, obtained in a day.

Not a leisurely day, as I recall we took 14 hours car to car,

EB, take another peek at my post, if you will.

.

I was agreeing with you. Sandy Headwall was NOT a leisurely day. Felt like a very full day, even with a pokey partner.

No worries. Kind of a moot point, as the route will likely be out of shape by late June early July when the OP wants to climb. Here is a nice video by Oregon Field Guide about the history of climbing Mt Hood. http://www.opb.org/programs/ofg/segments/view/1826 One climber interviewed said she first climbed Hood in August of 1946, now the mountain is out of shape by early June.

How bad are the crevasses on Reid glacier for Reid Head Wall? I probably won't have a partner, so I'm thinking about soloing it. Climbing part is fine, just concern about crevasses. Also, there are a lot of confusion regarding Reid. I found this picture on the flickr. Any idea which one might be the Reid Head Wall?

Reid Glacier Headwall is the one climber's right of Leuthold's Couloir. I have always roped up for the Reid. Although other than the bergschrund I don't recall seeing any open crevasses, but I assume they are there.