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Southern Cascade Volcano Ideas

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Southern Cascade Volcano Ideas

Postby mountainsandsound » Tue Jun 12, 2012 3:45 am

About to do a little volcano roadtrip with my brother. Next week we are climbing Shasta (with a 3rd, likely the Bolam Glacier route) and we need one more objective for 2 on the way home. I thought maybe we could climb Lassen, but I would like something more technical than a walk up. Are there cool mountaineering routes on Lassen when there's snow on it? Also thought about something in the sisters in OR, maybe the Diller headwall on Middle Sister if there's still enough snow. Or maybe the standard route on Hood if we aren't there on the weekend. Steep snow on a not super committing route or a glacier route with very minimal crevasse fall danger. Ideas?
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Re: Southern Cascade Volcano Ideas

Postby ExcitableBoy » Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:20 am

Ried Glacier Headwall on Hood. Mostly the same approach as the South Side, minimal crevasses on the Reid Glacier, lots of 60 degree neve'/ice/snow, or Leutholds Couloir which is not as steep. My understanding is that Lassen is a walk up. I haven't done any climbing between Hood and Shasta.
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Re: Southern Cascade Volcano Ideas

Postby splattski » Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:45 am

Mt. Adams has some really fun routes on it. I have not done the Adams Glacier,but it looks great. We did the north face of the northwest ridge and really enjoyed it:
http://www.summitpost.org/north-face-of ... dge/158222
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Re: Southern Cascade Volcano Ideas

Postby ExcitableBoy » Tue Jun 12, 2012 2:26 pm

FWIW, Adams Glacier is a wonderful route, but the approach may not be melted out by next week. Best to check with the ranger station first. The entire route is an ice fall, or a glacier spilling out between the North and NW ridges with lots of crevasses to hop across and climb down into and climb out of.
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Re: Southern Cascade Volcano Ideas

Postby JHH60 » Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:06 pm

Lassen Peak can be an easy but fun snow climb if the trail is snow covered, which it may still be, and depending on how you approach the summit block has a little bit of class 3 at the end. Note that the park is doing trail restoration so you may not be able to walk up if the peak isn't still snow covered (call ahead). The park is beautiful and has some interesting geothermal features, and there are nice views of Shasta and the surrounding areas from the summit of Lassen. Not a major mountaineering effort but it is a pleasant side trip from Shasta and you can say you've climbed the southernmost Cascade volcano. :)

Here's a cell phone snapshot looking North from last year about this time (trail still snow covered then):
Image
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Re: Southern Cascade Volcano Ideas

Postby clmbr » Tue Jun 12, 2012 6:09 pm

I would skip Lassen, to short, too easy but the park is very nice. However, Shasta gives you multiple options. If you set up the base camp along the H/B ridge you may climb Hotlum G., Bolum G., Whitney G., each different day and descent different ridges. All routes are in good shape right now and North Gate trailhead is completely clear.
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Re: Southern Cascade Volcano Ideas

Postby AlexeyD » Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:37 pm

I've heard very good things about the Hayden Glacier/North Ridge route in Middle Sister. Not exactly technical, but very scenic and fun. As far as snow conditions on the Sisters, I was in the area about a week and half ago and they looked very snowy, at least from Smith Rock...
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Re: Southern Cascade Volcano Ideas

Postby mountainsandsound » Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:49 pm

Thanks for the suggestions. I don't have alpine ice skills as of yet, so the Reid and Adams glaciers are out... for now. I've only ever placed screws for crevasse rescue practice. I guess I don't really want anything too technical yet, more than a slog but less than hanging glaciers and ice falls.

Lassen is my second favorite national park, but it is more suited to backpacking and hiking I guess. I might look into something in the sisters. A viewpoint, camping out, and exploring a new area is alright with me. I have all the technical routes I could hope for back home when I'm ready.
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