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Planning on doing the Kautz route on Rainier next July.

I don't know whether to take ice boots /crampons or mountaineering boots/crampons.

What do you recommend?

Koflach Plastic boots/BD Sabertooths, or

Vasque Alpinista ice boots/BD Cyborgs

Thank you.

Before they shrunk and the sole got loose (on Whitney Glacier) I climbed with my heavy duty leather boots from (HanWag) - double stitched (my were triple stitched). Since then for colder weather and more demanding conditions I take plastic Koflach (yellow, not too good for vertical ice). Otherwise, I take my light backpacking boots and strap on crampons (but never on Rainier).

My rule of thumb is plastics through May then leathers starting in June (my leathers are lightly insulated) unless it is nasty then I wear old running shoes and mow the lawn. My recommendation would be the Vasque boots with the Sabertooths.

The Koflachs are not a bad choice either, you will be on snow/glacier a long time, and the waterproof boots will be nice. Dry the liners inside your bag. In either case the Cyborgs are overkill.

Also, when I climbed the Kautz it was over Memorial Day WE. We had perfect neve’ and walked up and down the route with a single piolet, and climbed nothing steeper than 40 degrees. I know from photos and trip reports that the route becomes steeper and icier as the season progresses. In July I would bring a second tool, ice screw and V-thread material or plan on descending the DC.

A Ranger at Muir told us of a party and rolled through who had just climbed the Kautz. They were too gripped to descend the Kautz and tried to pay the rangers to retrieve their tent and gear left at the base of the route.

In July going light (single wall tent, light sleeping bag, light butane stove) and carrying over is not a bad idea. You get to see more of the mountain and avoid that trudge back up to the Paradise trail from the Nisqually which after climbing the mountain is enough to bring a tough guy to tears.

ExcitableBoy:

Thank you for your excellent advice, as always.

In July, we will go light, stay at the high camp, use two ice tools up the ice route, and descend via the DC. Will leave my Cyborgs at home.

The "trudge" up out of the Nisqually is all of 150 feet... Not exactly a deal killer. Its even less than this if you cross the nisqually higher up and hit the paved Paradise trail system instead of crossing lower on the nisqually.

Always take stuff for a V-thread. If nothing else you might need it for setting up a crevasse rescue as hacking bollards in ice is... well... Um not fun nor quick.

Going down DC is more enjoyable and relaxing as once you hit Muir, don't need a rope etc.

PS. I have always climbed in leathers. Even when icy and cold. I do wear VB plastic bags though.

Wastral wrote:The "trudge" up out of the Nisqually is all of 150 feet...

Is that all? Feel like 1500 after doing the Kautz, Fuher Thumb, and Fuher Finger a couple of times.

ExcitableBoy wrote:

Wastral wrote:The "trudge" up out of the Nisqually is all of 150 feet...

Is that all? Feel like 1500 after doing the Kautz, Fuher Thumb, and Fuher Finger a couple of times.

I think it depends on where get on the Nisqually. I prefer to get on it early as I would rather be on a glacier with my group than a paved path with the masses.

OP, I used leathers and sabertooth pros on the Kautz, worked fine. Also carried up and over, exiting via the DC. It is amazing to me how empty the Kautz was and how busy DC was.

ExcitableBoy wrote:

Wastral wrote:The "trudge" up out of the Nisqually is all of 150 feet...

Is that all? Feel like 1500 after doing the Kautz, Fuher Thumb, and Fuher Finger a couple of times.

Reminds me of the Suiattle river trail coming out of Image lake area, 18 miles out with another 6 to go and a measly 25 foot climb along the valley bottom creates the largest bitch fests ever. Decrying the "idiot" trail builders and what the $&@(*#)R$) were they thinking... What they were thinking was that was the easiest place to put the trail!!!

Pulled map out and lower Nisqually(5400) is 200 feet while if one exits Nisqually at 6050ft or so, climb a 50 foot bank and then simply traverse over the the trail and back to Paradise. There is a little transverse/parallel little valley beside the nisqually that in the right conditions one can butt glissade down and if one gets too energetic one blasts past the easy exit to the Paradise trails and once again its a bit more of a climb out.

When I surveyed the Kautz route while sitting on a rock at Glacier Point two weeks ago, the drop down on the switchbacks to the Nisqually Glacier seemed a lot more than 150 ft. But, I always over estimate drops while looking down.

From Glacier point you are right. It is certainly farther than 150 feet. Its why you don't ascend/descend there. Glacier point is at ?? 6800?

=-)