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I was up skiing at Timberline yesterday and it looked like the hogback on the south route has shifted to the west creating a steep traverse above the crevasse to reach the chute. Saw some climbers but didn't get a chance to catch to talk with them, but it looked like most were taking the old mazama chute up. Anyone have any firsthand info?

Well, I'm not sure if you're referring to any very recent shift, but, the Hogsback shited away from the Pearly Gates, several years ago. .

The traverse you refer to has also, thus, been there for some time. Many people take that traverse, though I haven't and will not,
due to advice I heard from a guide about the inherent danger of the traverse; that, and watching someone fall from the traverse
and cartwheel quite a ways down to the rocks below.
Tis much safer to go down from the Hogsback, to the Hot Rocks area just below, then begin your uphill journey. Least that's the
way I learned to go. . .

Yea, the hogsback migrated west a few years ago, and is slowly making its way back. Apparently it does this about every decade or so.

The times I've been through the Pearly Gates in the last couple years, it's been deep and guarded by a decent, if short, ice step of about 65 degrees for 12-14 feet. So if the traverse over (which is super easy) bothers you, you're definitely not going to like what you find up in the couloir.

If you possess the barest of technical alpine ability, you'll have no problem with the route. Most people who climb Hood have no technical ability.. thus, the Old Chute has become, and will remain for the foreseeable future, the standard route.

The times I've been through the Pearly Gates in the last couple years, it's been deep and guarded by a decent, if short, ice step of about 65 degrees for 12-14 feet. So if the traverse over (which is super easy) bothers you, you're definitely not going to like what you find up in the couloir

When I climbed Hood a few years ago in late April, I also saw the hog as shifted a little west too and encountered the icy area that Ben mentioned above. It didn't present a prob for me, but a slip could be a real issue with hard ice, particularly for any noobs or on a descent. Talking to some OR friends, the traverse seems to have become the std ascent and most parties seem to be making it down near the fumaroles or mid-slope and NOT directly under the rocks; though I have seen pix of parties doing that (not good ).

Recommendations on a good window to climb this pig this Spring consider current snow conditions?

Deb wrote:Recommendations on a good window to climb this pig this Spring consider current snow conditions?

When the sky is blue and the avy forecast is green.

Deb, from now through June can be good. Weather windows follow your typical Pacific northwest patterns. From now through the season the general trend is toward greater stability...but you can get unstable systems moving in during any time of the the year.

So there's no way to predict exactly when you'll get a good window ... but mid-June might be about as high probability as you're likely to find.

Geez! Small window! Will have to check my dance card with the local mtns that are calling my name this Spring.
Thanx!

Deb wrote:Geez! Small window! Will have to check my dance card with the local mtns that are calling my name this Spring.
Thanx!

I'm pretty sure those are just the dates he has scheduled out at work... it was a joke. The spring-weather window is a lot bigger than that.