ascasson,
FWIW, not sure what your fear factor/climbing experience is but here goes.
I did the south ridge a few years ago, so this opinion is based on that route and my memory off the top of my head (it could be a little rusty, so hopefully recent climbers will chime in). IMO, the two cruxes on the South Ridge route are the snow traverse on the west(?) side (below the major summit block) and a couple of 5.2-.4? rock moves on the summit block itself. If I remember correctly, the hardest rock move was an exposed section on/facing east right below the top.
If you are really comfortable on steep snow, you shouldn't have a mind problem on that traverse (south ridge route). I do remember thinking, if one took a fall there, it might be seriously life threatening/fatal. If snow conditions are soft, there might something of an existing trench/track from previous
climbers you can utilize or you can kick in your own boot track (slow but steady). If that traverse is icy/hard that's a different story. You should probably consider bringing an ice tool just in case (you can assess the traverse from the "hiker's summit" and always leave the tool before the traverse)
I do remember thinking that the snow traverse looked harder than it actually was, though this was after the fact.
FWIW, I was glad I was on a rope for the rock cruxes, but I probably could have free climbed the cruxes with a bolder attitude and in a pinch.
FWIW, I think it's doable solo for a "confident" and intermediate climber with snow/rock experience. Yes, I know that's a definition problem.
If you think this is you, give it a shot (only you really knows you). Obviously, The two main obstacles you face are your mind and the route conditions.
One approach is approach the climb with an open mind and to take the climb in stages.
Stage 1: a nice backpack in and nice ridge hike with great scenery
If your mind and the day feels right move on to the next sage. If you don't feel right about it, then you still had a great "hiker's summit" and you can come back at another time with better vibes (or climbing partners w/ rope, cams/nuts and a couple of pickets).
Stage 2: attempt the traverse. If you make the traverse without a mind problem and still feel confident, move on to stage three. If the traverse spooked you, then take a breather, call this your highpoint. The hardest thing left on your trip will be repeating the traverse back to "freedom."
Stage 3: keep moving around the summit block to the north side (I believe this is were the standard climbing begins for the rock climbing portion).
If I remember correctly, there's some class 3, possibly 4 moves until you get to the class 5 stuff nearer the top. Monitor yourself on this portion, if you are moving comfortably both mentally and physically, then keep going. Hell there's a summit up there and go bag it.
If you are concerned about down climbing the 3-4, I would reassess what you are doing and consider turning back because the climbing is not going to get any easier. Remember you gotta down climb that class 5 section too.
Really the only way to find out what it's like is to go attempt the sucker. One can talk, read and comment about routes all day online (kinda like I'm doing now.
, but only way to really know is go call your own bluff and go see for yourself. At the very least, one can come back with new information/attitude and form a new resolve/project. Mt. Jefferson is a great and beautiful peak and a nice one to have ticked off your list for sure. Alot of times it seems like half the battle of climbing is in your mind. Discovering your limits and boundaries is part of what makes mountaineering so enjoyable and addicting (and yes, sometimes scary). Remember, Mt. Jefferson is worthy of respect, just be cautious and listen to your gut.
Other considerations:
cell reception was pretty good from the hiker's summit.
Water supply might be an issue. If I recall correctly that ridge can be pretty dry. Bring lots of it.
Bring and wear the helmet above the hiker's summit
Another thought, in Jeff Thomas'
Oregon High: A Climbing Guide to Nine Cascade Volcanoes in the south ridge description he quotes someone about the route. It goes something like:
if I never climb that route again it will be too soon.
Rest assured, the route isn't that bad, but it does feel like a slog at times.
ok..enough of my banter. Time to pass the Talking Stick to someone else..EB any thoughts?
Buena Suerte,
JM