Damien Gildea wrote:If you haven't already got it, you need to get Jeremy Frimer's guidebook to the area (Google for it).
From what I know from friends who've been, esp. on the eastern side of the range the approaches are the real problem, up glaciers and icefalls that are increasingly broken. Generally the peaks are pretty steep, though of the main peaks the west side of Jirishanca doesn't look too bad. The normal route on Yerupaja used to be the west face, but no one went there during the Shining Path years and in that time the warming broke it up considerably, so it's rarely done - though it did get soloed a couple of years ago.
Some good general pics at:
http://www.photoseek.com/peru/Huayhuash.htmlBest map, a 1:50 000 topo, is by these guys:
http://www.alpinemapguild.com/ but should be available online via Google.
D
Damien, thanks for the info. I suppose I could get the book... however, I was thinking that if the easiest routes to all the high summits in the Huayhuash are ED and TD, then there's no point in my even ordering it - I'm not going to solo stuff that technical.
Great pics at that site, too.
Buz Groshong wrote:Juh33:
I'm not at all in your league when it comes to climbing, so I really can't help you there, but I'll PM you a couple of contacts who might be able to provide some info.
I'll also add that the CB is much more accessible than the Huayhuash, so I wouldn't dismiss the CB too quickly. You'll probably have to start in Huaraz in either case, since it is a good place to start acclimatizing and get supplies. Transportation down to the start of a hike-in for the Huayhuash could be expensive, so that should be considered in deciding between the two.
The world has plenty of people who will gladly take some money for doing nothing, so it might be possible to find a local guide who will tag along in the CB and just let you do your own thing. Unfortunately they might want the standard fee and might expect you to hire a cook and porters, etc. Another possibility is a guide who already has a client and would let you tag along to a base camp area and then go solo. Once you are in the park, you are not likely to see any park officials (all they do is watch the gates and collect the fees).
Thanks again Buz... eh, you're probably just too smart to solo stuff, unlike me. Appreciate the info about the possibility of a "guide" doing nothing... it's a thought, but then again my Spanish isn't the greatest so I'm not sure how well I could negotiate things. Sounds like you know a bit about the process - have you heard of "guides" there who'd do something like let someone tromp along to BC for a nominal fee and then let folks cruise off? That'd be ideal, I think.