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Puna de Atacama

PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 3:51 pm
by CBakwin
I'm looking to climb in the Puna this winter (Feb) hopefully Ojos, and Bonete Chico and/or Pissis, or thereabouts. Any good guide books or tips that could be easily passed on? I have read about these mountains here on SP, but like to take a guide book if one is available.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 3:58 pm
by Woodie Hopper
I believe "The High Andes" by John Biggars has information on Ojos and Pissis although the scope of the book is quite large and maybe not detailed enough for you. There are some used copies on Amazon around $27. I saw a newer copy at the downtown Denver REI a few months ago.

Woodie

PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 4:07 pm
by Scott
These two books are very good sources on the peaks there. They aren't that detailed, but always have enough info to get you there (almost any area in the Andes). Highly recommended.

http://www.amazon.com/Hikers-Climbers-W ... 304&sr=8-3

http://www.andes.org.uk/andes-guidebook ... 20Climbers

Both are very useful, especially if you use them together. Kelsey's book has more useful maps, but Biggars guide contains difficulty ratings. Both are highly recommended.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 7:49 pm
by Corax
If you have any questions please let me know. Perhaps I can help out with some additional info that's not on the SP pages about the peaks.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:49 pm
by Andino
I was in the Puna last February for a week. I might not have as much knowledge as Corax, but maybe I can help for general logistics. We especially hiked and climbed in the Paso San Francisco area.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 9:43 pm
by Jerry L
Chris,

I'm planning to be there in January / February. Are you going with your brother ?

Also, the used books at Amazon are the second edition. The author has an updated third edition that I ordered from REI last week.

Jerry

PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:48 pm
by CBakwin
Thanks everybody, Scott, I'll order those books, but Yikes, $49 for Biggar's book! I have used Kelsey's books for canyoneering on the Colorado Plateau, a bit jumbled, but the most complete out there, do you know him? When I get the route down, mountain to mountain, I will undoubtably have some specific questions, so I will PM you guys, thanks. Jerry, Just starting on the logistics now, more later. Again, thanks all!

PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:58 pm
by Scott
do you know him


Yes. You can see photos of him on some of my SP pages or in TR’s.

http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.p ... t_id=59475

http://www.summitpost.org/article/27288 ... -Arch.html

His world guide is his best work.

I'll order those books, but Yikes, $49 for Biggar's book!


I didn’t realize it was $49 on Biggars site. :oops: I picked mine up from REI. It’s $36.95 there. If not in the local store, you can order it online.

http://www.rei.com/product/741252

Just curious

PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 4:33 am
by Faster
Atacama: Does anybody have any idea about conditions in the southern winter? Our guide said its pretty bad up there in the winter. Has any one ever been or know anyone who has been. Not that I am planning to do a winter trip.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:21 am
by Andino
Supposedly you can climb all year round in the Puna de Atacama.

At any time of the year, wind and bad weather usually come from the west (Pacific Ocean side) so if you climb on volcanoes' east side you always have better chances to be protected.

PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 4:39 pm
by Ski Mountaineer
The climate of the Puna is more complex as one would think at first.
In the south (Ojos, Pissis, etc) it is still influenced by the Central Chilean climate with winter rain climate (frontal zone influence), and heavy winter storms can hit those peaks during the winter (the snow stakes on the Paso San Francisco Road are there for a good reason). Other winters can be dry with very little snow - so it fluctuates, as it typical for many desert-semi desert transition zones. Also spring is very windy.
For me November seems best, with some snow (water) left, and a quite predictable weather pattern.
Here the weather comes from the Pacific, but thunderstorms can build over the Argentine plains and hit particularly the Eastern peaks (Incahuasi, Walter Penck, Pissis).

The Central zone (Paso Socompa) is truly dry. It gets gradually wetter further north, with the weather now being more influenced by the Invierno Boliviano the further you get north - so more and more from the east. But anywhere between North of Paso San Francisco and up to Ollagüe winter can also bring some snow (then from the Pacific).

Regions north of that (Ollague) are already under some Bolivian weather influence, and climbing there in February can be "exciting". It can be done as it is still desert, but the thunderstorms can come over from Bolivia.

It gets pretty gets pretty weird when El Nino comes around.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 3:16 pm
by CBakwin
OK, Now I am getting a bit of scheduling and routes finished, I hope. I am thinking of going in to Bonete from Jague. Hopefullly taking two or three days on that peak and then trudging on foot up to Pissis and climbing that (three day walk?) up to three days on peak. Then I hope to go out on the road to the town of Coipa. From there continue north over Paso De San Francisco and do Ojos.
Three initial questions: It sounds like water will be available at least in the form of snow, on the mountains, any sources of water as I walk past Caldera del Inca up to Pissis from Bonete? Second: Can I resupply my food with wholesome enough and light enough foods from the towns I will encounter from Coipa to Ojos?, they seem pretty small. Any places to stay there? and lastly: How does this schedule/route sound? practical? any cautions? I move pretty fast (Aconcogua in four nights and one was waiting for the mules, Kilimanjaro in just over 50 hours....) but I will be hauling all my stuff for up to 9-10 days and if I have to carry water...............
General Comments from those what knows. thanks

PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 11:56 am
by Andino
CBakwin wrote:It sounds like water will be available at least in the form of snow, on the mountains, any sources of water as I walk past Caldera del Inca up to Pissis from Bonete?


When we were in Puna last February we also counted on snow... the first snow on Incahuasi was at 6200m (on the Eastern side) ! Nothing below !!
Of course it depends on when you go, which side you're climbing, which summit you will attempt. But don't expect too much. Also, running water in the Puna is usually dangerous to drink as it contains a lot minerals (copper, sulfur etc...).

For our two-day ascent, we had to carry 24 liters of waters with us (4 litres per day for 3 people). To be honest 3 litres per person and per day would have been enough (for cooking and drinking). So don't underestimate the rareness of water there. Wind and water are the main obstacles.

You can check out this album from the Puna I posted a while ago. Some of the pictures are not mine, but on those which are mine, you'll see that it was very dry everywhere : Puna de Atacama

PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 11:49 pm
by Damien Gildea
I'm thinking of doing Pissis and Ojos in February 08 out of Fiambala. Maybe go into Mercedario S side in late Jan so as to arrive in Fiambala acclimatised. Will be in Antarctica Nov-mid-Jan so can't go any earlier.

Plan would be jeep into Ojos roadhead, walk in, do Ojos, walk out, jeep into Pissis BC, climb then out. Using Jonson Reynoso for jeep, so cheaper with a few people. Time take would depend on whether or not I arrived in Fiambala acclimatised.

Anyone else planning something similar ?

D

PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:43 pm
by CBakwin
Sharing support might be a good idea, I'll PM you.