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Has Anyone Climbed Copa?

PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 4:21 pm
by farrgo
Thinking about doing Copa next year, anyone done it recently? Wondering on the status of glacier tongue due to global warming.

PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 5:10 am
by kylenw
I'm thinking about doing it in the next couple weeks. I'll let you know about conditions when i return to the states in august.

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:58 pm
by farrgo
Bump. Anyone been on this thing in the last five years? I'm thinking that global warming might have very adversely affected this route. Does anyone have any suggestions for a very easy 6000m route... i.e., Chopiqalqui is probably too hard.

PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 12:03 am
by MRoyer4
I can't help with information on Copa, but here is a list of 6000m peaks in the Andes (including approximate grades): http://www.andes.org.uk/andes-informati ... -peaks.asp

If you're looking for something in the Cordillera Blanca, it doesn't appear you will find anything easier than Copa. If you have questions about Chopi, I can potentially answer those (climbed June '08 ).

PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 4:44 am
by kylenw
I didn't make it over to Copa this past summer, so I can't comment on the viability of the route. I did solo Pisco and climbed several other mountains and the glaciers were in okay shape. I would imagine this to be the case on Copa as well. I don't know what the status is of the glacier tongue however.

PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 3:03 pm
by CClaude
Its been 11 yrs since I've done it but Pisco is much easier the Copa. Back then Copa was being hit by global warming. The tongue wasn't that bad, but you needed to do an S on the Glacier to avoid two bad crevasse fields, (with the one closer to the ridge down low being the worse (when descending rtetrace your path instead of going straight). I can't image this one doing any better with warming and drying. Technically its not difficult but the crevasses can be a b#tch (or not) to deal with depending how dry it is.

Google Brad Johnson. He is a good resource having written a good guide book to the area and guides there on a regular basis.

PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 5:55 pm
by brandon
Down near Aconcagua, Cerro Plata, 6000m (now something like 5980 meters after recent recordings) offers a walk up, literally. trails and snow fields less than 15degrees. Light hikers and poles. If thats´your bag.

Benign environment except for the unpredicatble winds, and killer views of bigger peaks to the north.

PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 4:25 pm
by farrgo
Thanks for the replies. The lack of recent experience on such an easy 6000m peak makes me think that it is not fairing well. I'm trying to get my Dad up something high during our trip this summer. I think Chopicalqui might be potentially too difficult for our team. I want to make sure I'm stacking the cards in our favor as this will most likely be my Dad's chance to climb something in the Andes.

PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 5:07 pm
by Buz Groshong
Go for Pisco!

It's not difficult or technical, is very safe, is reasonably high (though not 6km), and I'm told it has great views (we were in a whiteout when I got to the top).

PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 5:17 pm
by CClaude
Or if you want easier mountains but still high, try Equador.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:00 am
by farrgo
I the end I took my old man up Pisco. The climb itself was quite easy... the moraine was infinately more difficult than the climb itself.

FWIW I learned this summer that many persons are climbing Copa. I talked to a couple of ascensionists and mentioned my concerns about reaching the ridge and they were suprised. Apparently they encountered no difficulty. From what I've heard... its game on for Copa... especially given the heavy snowfall this winter/summer.