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Hi, I will start climbing Muztagh Ata in two weeks and would like some advice before I leave. Thank you very much!

Welcome to SummitPost!

Advice concerning what?

Adding detail to your question will make it easier for people to answer your questions.

I can recommend not drinking a bottle of scotch on the night prior to your departure as you might miss your plane to Urumqi.

good advice! might not be easy though as I really enjoy scotch!

Thanks for your answer. I would like to know in particular how cold it gets up there and what type of gear I should take and what if someone has any typs on how to deal with sleeping on this mountain for 20 days. Merci!

I would like to know in particular how cold it gets up there and what type of gear I should take and what if someone has any typs on how to deal with sleeping on this mountain for 20 days. Merci!

Shouldnt you already know these things if you are leaving in 2 weeks? Just curious?

Poor Climber wrote:

I would like to know in particular how cold it gets up there and what type of gear I should take and what if someone has any typs on how to deal with sleeping on this mountain for 20 days. Merci!

Shouldnt you already know these things if you are leaving in 2 weeks? Just curious?

I got some advice and bought some stuff. But I guess people who have alreday done it might be able to give some good typs!

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=mu ... gle+Search
Summitpost also has a link on this page of Google search.

Cy Kaicener wrote:http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=muztagh+ata&btnG=Google+Search
Summitpost also has a link on this page of Google search.

very useful! thank you!

hmm, well I guess plan for about -20 on summit day in bad conditions.

No-one in our group had down suits, just down jackets. A few people had nominal frost nip in the toes using AT boots.

I used a -25 deg bag and my partner who feels the cold a -40 deg bag. Obviously can get quite warm traversing from camps 1 to 3. On the route we took, there was quite a lot of crevasses. On summit day, we only got back to Camp 3 with use of GPS as we encountered total white out conditions.

radson wrote:hmm, well I guess plan for about -20 on summit day in bad conditions.

No-one in our group had down suits, just down jackets. A few people had nominal frost nip in the toes using AT boots.

I used a -25 deg bag and my partner who feels the cold a -40 deg bag. Obviously can get quite warm traversing from camps 1 to 3. On the route we took, there was quite a lot of crevasses. On summit day, we only got back to Camp 3 with use of GPS as we encountered total white out conditions.

Thanks! This is what I've been told concerning the down jacket (down suit not necessary). They also told me to take a sleeping bag for the base camp (-15 deg minimum) and a sleeping bag for the altitude camps (-30 deg minimum). How many nights did you sleep on the mountain? Were you able to sleep?

David

Im Australian sleeping champion, I can sleep anywhere. Probably spent cumulative 7 days away from base camp. I had two sleeping bags. One form base camp and my Feathered Friends Peregrine which I took on my little tour up and down from camp 3.

Be warned Mustagh Ata, is not the most exciting climb. Good experience and west china is interesting, but the climb is a slog.

radson wrote:Im Australian sleeping champion, I can sleep anywhere. Probably spent cumulative 7 days away from base camp. I had two sleeping bags. One form base camp and my Feathered Friends Peregrine which I took on my little tour up and down from camp 3.

Be warned Mustagh Ata, is not the most exciting climb. Good experience and west china is interesting, but the climb is a slog.

I'm French and don't sleep extremely well under a tent... did u suffer from altitude? were u able to eat up there?

ooh so tempted to make fun of the french but I shall refrain for now.

I had my worst AMS ever at base camp, throwing up, head spins, nausea etc. Once acclimatised and on the diamox, I was fine. As you are undoubtedly know, one person's anecdotal experience means almost nothing to another person.

I am sure you will get used to living in tents, there is not much choice. I hope who ever you are going with provides a nice base camp tent, that makes a big difference.

"Remember not to have a fatal accident, because the community will think climbing is a dangerous thing, your friends will be bummed... and you'll be dead."

- Kitty Calhoun from AAC lecture