Page 1 of 1

Alpine/trad climbing in Japan

PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 4:24 am
by Misha
I may be going to Japan for a couple of weeks in late October. Are there any worthwhile alpine/mountaineering objectives? Something with moderate rock (up to 5.10) will be best. Is late October too late to climb there? Any advice will be appreciated!

PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 4:36 pm
by livenbig
The Japanese alps are amazing mountains from what I saw watching the winter olympics. Google Nagano.

PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 8:05 pm
by Scott
I haven't been there so can't help much, but since no one else has answered with info, the book World Mountaineering (by Salkeld) has a section on Yari-Ga Take and the climbing there. More than likely you can find the book in your local library.

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:47 am
by Iainhw
Late oct is a good time to head into the japanese mtns as not many folks around and skies are clearer than summer mths. If you're on your own I would aim to do the Yari Hodaka traverse (start point Kamikochi), it's basically a fun 3 day scramble on some of japan's biggest and most impressive mtns. If you have a partner/are a competent alpine soloist you could spice it up a little by:
- Starting it by taking the n ridge of yari route, although maybe expensive for you to get to start of route due to remoteness.
- Starting/finishing on myo jin san
- Including an ascent of mae hodaka north east ridge.
Unfortunately there are no english alpine/rock climbing guides. If you are willing to buy a japanese one, i'll later post a amazon link.
Other big (3000m ish)peaks that offer rock routes are Kita dake (n buttress), Hodaka, Tsurugi dake and nearer to tokyo Aka dake in the yatsu ga take range.