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Matterhorn Peak - Double Dihedral ?

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Matterhorn Peak - Double Dihedral ?

Postby rhyang » Fri Mar 23, 2007 2:44 pm

I was perusing Secor for info on Matterhorn Peak's N. Arete and noted the Double Dihedral ( 5.8 ) route.

Curious to know if it's good, and how much actual 5.8 is on the route ... I see it seems to start from the vicinity of the West Couloir.
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Postby Matt Worster » Fri Mar 23, 2007 4:33 pm

I've read up on that somewhere . . . it might be included on the SuperTopo for the North Arete. It shares part of the route, doesn't it? Drat, wish I could be more useful.
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Postby rhyang » Fri Mar 23, 2007 6:16 pm

Cool, thanks ! I have read that the first few pitches of the N. Arete kind of suck, so maybe starting up that 5.8 face would be the thing to do, and then traversing over to the N. Arete ... btw what time of year were those pics taken ?
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Postby rhyang » Tue Apr 27, 2010 8:07 pm

Picking up where I left off three years ago :) Anyone done it since then ?
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Postby kovarpa » Tue Apr 27, 2010 8:38 pm

I can tell you which way NOT to start. This is the route where K*** "stopped" climbing and gave me his ropes :-) Once we got on route, it was really nice, though. Moderate/easy climbing with great views. The last two pitches are shared with North Arete.
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Postby Diggler » Tue Apr 27, 2010 8:43 pm

kovarpa wrote:I can tell you which way NOT to start. This is the route where K*** "stopped" climbing and gave me his ropes :-) Once we got on route, it was really nice, though. Moderate/easy climbing with great views. The last two pitches are shared with North Arete.


I don't know who this K*** is, but it seems like he might as well just start a family & stop climbing!
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Postby rhyang » Tue Apr 27, 2010 8:58 pm

:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby Zzyzx » Wed Apr 28, 2010 6:48 am

Diggler wrote:
kovarpa wrote:I can tell you which way NOT to start. This is the route where K*** "stopped" climbing and gave me his ropes :-) Once we got on route, it was really nice, though. Moderate/easy climbing with great views. The last two pitches are shared with North Arete.


I don't know who this K*** is, but it seems like he might as well just start a family & stop climbing!


Yeah, that sounds like a safer option than climbing alpine "5.5" (or was it 5.4???). Rob, don't forget to ask Pavel about that one traverse.... :wink:

The views are definitely great though.
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Postby rhyang » Wed Apr 28, 2010 2:19 pm

Thanks guys ! Maybe I should stick with a route that has a nice supertopo :) There's so much beautiful stuff back in there .. need to do Whorl and the west couloir of Matterhorn too.
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Postby fatdad » Wed Apr 28, 2010 3:29 pm

Thanks for the trip report. Nice photos. Droolworthy. How long did it take you R/T? I got rained off the second pitch of the N. Arete a while ago and have been meaning to go back, but am inclined to do it in a day.
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