Younger, fitter, faster, smarter...
But THEY don't know where they're going so they have to wait for me. Haha, DD in a day from Twin Lakes the goal.
Walking is the greater part of mountaineering?
You can see the upper of the 2 dihedrals of the double dihedral route in this pic on the right side of the face. The start of our climb is shielded by the big toe that forms the loose 5.9 direct start to the North Arete. we started well to the right of that bulge, up in the loose gully at the bottom of the lower hedral
I didn't take any useful pics of the first pitch. It was so ugly looking I didn't even want to gaze at it much prior to launching up the thing. Here is Angus leading p2. This pitch was steep and fun and not terribly hard. This is to the left of the lower hedral.
Care to critique Angus's anchor? What... are you planning to fall?
Once Jason the Cannuk took the lead we told him, 'keep going if you want, we'll follow' so we simuled the upper part of the North Arete all the way up. Sorta pissed off a party of two above us that made the mistake of taking the easy option out on the arete proper. Jase stayed in the corner and just climbed right past them, haha. It was funny watching them watching him, they kept expecting Jason to stop and belay (and thus fuck up their line) but of course he kept going and so did we. I smiled at the leader of the other team but he just scowled back. Hey, fuck you too!
Angus really liked the dihedral on the N Arete. This was the very first alpine climb I did back in the day with my master Stu Pollack. He sorta taught me a lot about the alpine rock gig. You can just see the shoulder of the dude out on the arete who scowled at me.
I was tied in about 40 feet shorter than him so if I fell for some reason the rope stretch (8.1 doubles) wouldn't have me landing on his head.
Guys a man can count on, two of my strongest partners ever, Jason the Cannuk in front (since returned to Vancouver) and Angus Carbide in the back, we're in our 20 th season as partners THIS YEAR.
Descent. Jason didn't really care for the amount of walking to do this route.
A last look as evening stretches on.
This is the only shot I took that sorta kinda shows the start of the route way over to the right where a steepening gully blends into the lower dihedral. My loose pitch was up and curving left from the bottom of that thing through an arch of loose rock. The mid point traverse to the N Arete is fairly obvious, the rock type goes from brown to gray. A big ledge system you could almost walk over there. The other team started somewhere to the right of the bulge but out on the face to the left of where we started.
Sorry, didn't take any useful pics of the upper crack system for some reason either. Too much smoke at the belays I think. These boys are chong lords.