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Igniter Jacket vs. DAS Parka

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Igniter Jacket vs. DAS Parka

Postby LakeofConstance » Sat Dec 19, 2009 3:53 am

I'm thinking about getting a decent synthetic insulation jacket for 5000-6000m peaks. I read quite a bit about the DAS Parka here, seems to be most ppl's favourite. I came across the Igniter Jacket from FirstAscent while researching on the internet, has anyone made some experiences with this one? I can't really find any reviews other than those from people that are somewhat affiliated with First Ascent.

Any other SYNTHETIC insulation jackets that can keep up with the DAS?
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Postby DanielWade » Sat Dec 19, 2009 7:03 am

Just get a DAS.
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Postby dskoon » Sat Dec 19, 2009 8:47 am

Many out there. . .
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Postby Ammon Hatch » Sat Dec 19, 2009 9:02 am

I have the igniter, got it a few weeks ago. I haven't taken it into the mountains yet but I walked around in a pretty cold snow storm with nothing but a t shirt underneath and it kept me warm. I'll be taking it out tomorrow as a belay layer while ice climbing so I can let you know more then.

Planning to use mine on 5-6KM peaks in Ecuador next month. If you have an Eddie Bauer nearby go in and talk to the salespeople. In my experience they mostly get skiiers or non-outdoors people browsing the racks so when they get real climbers they get excited. I got 20% off my entire order because I chatted it up with the store manager for a bit.
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Postby Sunny Buns » Sat Dec 19, 2009 9:04 am

Just googled it and read the specs. Says it is water repellent, not water proof.

Says it will keep a breeze off of you.

Sounds like a nice jacket for going out to dinner here in the Pacific Northwest.

If I'm going to the mountains I want a jacket that will keep my insulation dry in a 70 mph deluge of freezing rain, and yes, I've been in one on top of Baker. What will do that? 3 layer gortex is the only thing I trust.

IMHO, buy a 3 layer goretex rain parka and a couple of THICK fleece jackets. If you really want to be warm, buy a down jacket also. Unless you're going where it's nasty, then a down jacket will get you killed so buy a down parka in that case.

Leave the DAS at home. No insulation will keep you warm when wet.
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Postby kheegster » Sat Dec 19, 2009 9:26 am

The DAS parka is basically a belay jacket, and several companies make competitive belay jackets... Wild Things Belay Jacket, OR Chaos, MH Alcove, Rab Belay Jacket. Also check out Montbell products, awesome quality stuff at great prices.
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Postby LakeofConstance » Sat Dec 19, 2009 2:33 pm

Thanks for the replies, guys! I'll browse some stores in Ottawa today, there's also an Eddie Bauer store. so I'm going to take a look at the Igniter. Unfortunately, I haven't found any store here (between Toronto and Ottawa) yet that had the DAS Parka. I'd love to have that thing in my hands before I decide....

@Ammon Hatch: let me know how the ice climbing with the Igniter went.
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DAS

Postby Snowy » Sat Dec 19, 2009 2:55 pm

Plently of other options, but the DAS is tried and true.
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Postby kiwiw » Sat Dec 19, 2009 4:38 pm

last year I got a really good deal on a DAS. it was just for a dark kinda vomit green color, but it was half price.
I've used it here in the NW and I really like it. it stuffs down to the size of a small sleepingbag, and is extremely warm, plus being synthetic it's easier to deal with it if it gets wet. I only use it as a belay jacket or for rainier, unless it's really cold, like below 0. it worked great on the N face of chair 2 weeks ago when we ended up rapping off in the dark.
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Postby CanadianSteve » Sat Dec 19, 2009 5:11 pm

I have a MEC Tango Belay Parka: it is slightly heavier (50-60g) and slightly warmer than the DAS. I have used it belaying in -25*C w/o windchill in the rockies, with a base layer and R1 hoody and it kept me warm.
It's also cheaper than the DAS...
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Postby JHH60 » Sat Dec 19, 2009 6:19 pm

Sunny Buns wrote:Just googled it and read the specs. Says it is water repellent, not water proof.

Says it will keep a breeze off of you.

Sounds like a nice jacket for going out to dinner here in the Pacific Northwest.

If I'm going to the mountains I want a jacket that will keep my insulation dry in a 70 mph deluge of freezing rain, and yes, I've been in one on top of Baker. What will do that? 3 layer gortex is the only thing I trust.

IMHO, buy a 3 layer goretex rain parka and a couple of THICK fleece jackets. If you really want to be warm, buy a down jacket also. Unless you're going where it's nasty, then a down jacket will get you killed so buy a down parka in that case.

Leave the DAS at home. No insulation will keep you warm when wet.


Actually I've been stuck on a long hanging belay on Baker North Ridge in exactly those conditions and my DAS parka was great. What's nice is you can pull it out of your pack when you need it and it keeps you warm, without juggling middle layers, even if what you have on is already wet, and the parka itself gets wet.
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Postby Ammon Hatch » Sat Dec 19, 2009 8:50 pm

It worked well as a layer in my system for today's purposes. Got a little cold when I was just standing around the parking lot waiting for partners (about 15*F), but once I was moving I never got cold again, even during long waits between climbs. I doubt it will keep you warm for extended periods of not moving, you'd need something warmer for a bivy for example. But I'm pleased with how it performed, even when dripped on.

Also the fit was great on me (6'1", ~130#) I have a medium, and wore it over several thin-ish layers.

Overall, it's not meant for extreme cold, but it worked very well for me today.

FYI I was also wearing a first ascent baselayer on top and the guide softshell pants. I think I'm in love with both of those items.
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Postby Cross » Sat Dec 19, 2009 9:33 pm

Given its 170gm primaloft and baffled construction, the DAS is probably twice as warm as igniter (100gm primaloft). The DAS is a true winter/high altitude belay jacket whereas igniter will do in more temperate seasons and areas of the world. They are meant for different applications.
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Postby T Sharp » Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:19 am

I liked everything about my DAS Parka except for the very tight thin band elastic at the wrist, It felt so tight it might/could cut off circulation! Why they did not put in a decent cuff is beyond me, I ended up trading it to my climbing partner!
I hope yours will fit better! 8)
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Postby DanielWade » Sun Dec 20, 2009 2:18 am

I think our GTX advocate missed the point on the DAS. For ice-climbing and high altitude mountaineering the DAS or similiar synthetic product is IDEAL because you are not dealing with rain. I agree that in extreme wind/rain situations GTX is the way to go with fleece under layers but that does not give you ability to add/remove insulation quickly without changing out of your action suit - which is the point of a belay jacket. Down is for slow expedition climbing not for modern alpinists. Google isn't a substitute for real-world experience with a DAS. Save fit and features, it's a tried and true favorite.
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