by kaiwaldron » Fri Apr 06, 2012 5:09 pm
Any recent updates on the Casaval Ridge route? I'm thinking about doing this on May 9 or 10. Because of the weak snow year it sounds like the prime climbing season is going to be a bit earlier than normal. So maybe early May will be too late?
Here's an update I found on shastaavalanche.org:
Casaval has been devoid of snow for most of the winter, however the weeks recent storm has deposited a few feet of snow on the route. Postholing is likely an issue and avalanche danger should be assessed. Exposed rocks are a possibility on the traverse from Casaval to the West Face. Otherwise, this route is a beautiful climb, physically challenging and should be in good shape for the next month or so. Green Butte/Sargents is in decent shape...lack of ice/snow on the rock spine above 11,600 can push the route onto the steep west slope with some necessary route finding through the rock bands to stay on snow. Be careful not to dislodge rocks onto the Avalanche Gulch climbers below you! This route doesn't see great conditions often, but is a great challenge and not for the weak of heart. Technical difficulties are usually not a problem for climbers on these routes however both of these routes have a lot of exposure for long falls, and are better off for experienced climbers.