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Failing grigri

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Re: Failing grigri

Postby DrGranola » Sat Apr 21, 2012 3:31 pm

I've never used mine for self belay or repelling and haven't experienced this. I'm sure you're aware that smaller diameter ropes will slide through the breaking system, however, let me ask you this. What size rope are you using? There was a recall on the grigri 2, although I'm not sure this reflects the issue you're describing.

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/recall- ... t-grigri-2
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Re: Failing grigri

Postby ExcitableBoy » Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:38 pm

I'm pretty sure Petzl discourages using Gri Gris as rope soloing devices as they are not intended for that purpose, but folks do it fairly frequently. From Andy Kirkpatrick's website: http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/article ... 101_part_1

"Although it’s not meant for rope soloing, the Petzl Grigri is by far the most popular rope soloing device, probably due as much to its low price as well as peoples experience with it, rather then its safety record. Some climbers modify their grigri to allow the rope to feed more smoothly, or attach a loop of cord or wire so they can fix it to a chest harness, but both involve drilling or filing, both of which compound the feeling that you’re doing something wrong. Beyond the fact that most climbers are comfortable using a grigri, its main drawback is the fact that it’s very easy for the handle to become tangled or snagged, and so stop the unit from locking off. I’ve used the grigri a few times and have taken two falls, one that it caught, the other that it didn’t (I was saved by an aider clipping into a piece of gear on the way down!). Another problem is the device can only be attached by one karabiner and unlike a knot, has a good chance of loading the karabiner badly (a brit soloist took a monster lob off el Cap a few years ago when his DMM Belay Master attached to his grigri snapped - being saved by his back up knot) . When using a grigri I would use a steel mailon to attach it to my harness, and make sure to always have a back up knot, as well as reduce any clutter that could fowl the handle."

There is a modification that folks make to the Gri Gri for use as a rope soloing device. Here are instructions on how to do it: http://ulrichprinz.de/alpin/equipment/selfmade/
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Re: Failing grigri

Postby Ben Beckerich » Sat Apr 21, 2012 8:00 pm

Why use a Grigri for top-rope solo? I prefer non-toothed ascenders... self-tending and it's a lot closer to their intended use. I'm currently using a CAMP Lift ascender.. sometimes backed up with a prusik above, so the unit pushes it up, but it'll grab if the unit fails. But more and more frequently, I just trust the unit.

You might want to clean your Grigri, BTW... I had some Gatorade spill all over my gear recently, and all my gear with moving/spring-loaded parts gummed up on me.

Be safe
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Re: Failing grigri

Postby ExcitableBoy » Sat Apr 21, 2012 8:22 pm

I had a partner who used a Petzl chest ascender, most often used in caving applications, for top rope soloing. I tried the rig out and found it worked quite well.
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Re: Failing grigri

Postby Ben Beckerich » Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:33 pm

Another thing I'd never thought of before is the possibility of user-error... grabbing the device in anticipation of a fall, and inadvertently holding it "open." Same complaint some guys make against using the Petzl Shunt.

I personally don't hold that against the Shunt (another excellent TR solo device), but it's just more fud 4 thot.
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Re: Failing grigri

Postby Hotoven » Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:57 pm

I have used the gri gri for solo top roping a few times. It never failed. I always hang a gallon of water at the bottom of the rope to keep the rope stiff and straight below me. That allows the grigri to move more smoothly.
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Re: Failing grigri

Postby Hotoven » Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:19 pm

borutbk wrote:
Hotoven wrote:I have used the gri gri for solo top roping a few times. It never failed. I always hang a gallon of water at the bottom of the rope to keep the rope stiff and straight below me. That allows the grigri to move more smoothly.

Which device do you use otherwise?


That's the only devise have used for solo top-roping.
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Re: Failing grigri

Postby CClaude » Thu Apr 26, 2012 11:05 pm

Myself, I use a Trango Cinch since it locks up easier thena Grigri, especially on smaller ropes), with a mini-traxion type as a backup. Use it a lot. The setup would work well with the grigri replacing the Cinch.
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Re: Failing grigri

Postby Kastner » Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:52 pm

I Quote from Petzl site...

" Self-belaying is prohibited!

We cannot ignore the fact that some people use the GRIGRI as a self-belay device. Many internet sites give tips on modifying your device for this use. Above all, this technique increases the risks to the climber. Firstly, the climber does not hold the braking side of the rope.

Additionally, in case of a fall, the GRIGRI can be blocked against the rock, the positioning system (positioning strap), or other, thus negating its braking function. The climber could fall to the ground. Finally, remember that any product modification outside of pETZL facilities is formally prohibited (see Instructions for use).

Self-belaying with the GRIGRI is prohibited."
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Re: Failing grigri

Postby hariseldon » Wed Jun 26, 2013 10:35 am

Petzl Grigri is not meant for rope soloing, I know it's low price but...


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Last edited by hariseldon on Sun Sep 15, 2013 8:16 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: Failing grigri

Postby DudeThatMustHurt » Thu Aug 15, 2013 10:58 pm

Grigris and ID's ARE designed to slip a bit when under load, it can be more noticeable with brand new or more worn out ropes (sheath new or sheath stretched)
I do rope access for a living and carry quite large loads on myself, I sometimes even use the red ID depending on my scope of work. A simple slip knot or even wrapping the rope around your leg is really the only way to be 100% stopped on those devices
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