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Boots again ... In Ecuador

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Boots again ... In Ecuador

Postby ensonik » Fri Oct 26, 2012 3:13 am

Hi all,

First post ... :oops:

I will be in Ecuador to climb the higher volcanoes in January and have boot questions. I currently own and love a pair of La Sportiva Trango Extreme GTX. I believe the consensus would be that they aren't quite warm enough for the 6,000m peaks over there. Here in the North East, they've brought me through some very long and cold days without a problem so because I trust them and feel comfortable in them, I'd prefer to use those.

The question: Would using them in combination with the Forty Below K2 Superlight overboots bring them to a warmth level judged acceptable?

Thanks for any input.

Mike.
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Re: Boots again ... In Ecuador

Postby Dane1 » Fri Oct 26, 2012 4:00 am

"I believe the consensus would be that they aren't quite warm enough for the 6,000m peaks"

Hi Mike. Welcome!

Try asking yourself these questions and give an honest answer. Would you use your Trangos for a week long trip during a mid winter storm on Mt Washington? Those are the conditions you could very easily have in S.A. Have you used a over boot and crampon (any crampon) combination previous to this trip? Will you before you go? (you'll really want to get that ALL ironed out long before hand)

19,600 in SA isn't like the summit of Denali but not a place I'd generally want a lwt boot like the Trango either. And the Trango is a boot I have climbed with in winter alot in NA and Canada. The real issue is going to be keeping the boot dry inside and once wet it is almost impossible to dry out in the field.

Boots are cheap compared to the medical bills for this.......which is only a minor case of frost bite...recieved at than 7000' in the Cascades over a 24 hr. period in early Dec. The owner of these feet was climbing in a pair ofTrangos as well. (no shit)

Image

This may help you decide.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04 ... -boot.html

What ever you decide, good luck!
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Re: Boots again ... In Ecuador

Postby ensonik » Fri Oct 26, 2012 12:23 pm

Hi Dane,

Thanks for the time and the great response. All the questions you've mentioned I've definitely asked myself, but there is a great unknown to me: Altitude.

I have used my boots on multi-day winter trips in the Whites and High Peaks on a few occasions without a problem. I would consider myself an advanced hiker ... but in the North East. I know snow; I know cold. I don't know altitude.

To answer a couple of your questions:
- Yes, I would use them during a mid-winter storm on Mount Washington. But not on a a week long trip; in Ecuador, most if not all Volcanoes are a 1/2 day outing. If I were heading out for 8 day outings, of course I wouldn't even think of using them.
- Yes, I've used crampons; I wear them more often than necessary to get used to them. I also do some occasional ice climbing.

I've seen the pictures you mention and I've read a ridiculous amount of books on altitude and getting ready for it. But the main issue is I don't know how much colder I'm going to feel at 6,000m compared to the measly few meters we experience here in the North East. I know that altitude will make me feel colder, but I don't know how much colder.

As well, it seems close to impossible to find out what the temps (not the conditions; the actual temperature) are at the top of an Ecuador Volcano ...

Thanks agian.
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Re: Boots again ... In Ecuador

Postby Scott » Fri Oct 26, 2012 3:18 pm

As well, it seems close to impossible to find out what the temps (not the conditions; the actual temperature) are at the top of an Ecuador Volcano ..


Usually the temps are in the lower 20's and maybe as low as the teens on the summits of the Ecuador volcanoes. Anything below the low teens is unusual. There is no winter and summer and it's like that way year round.

As far as comparing it to winter on Mt Washington or winter on any of the high alpine summits in the US (i.e. Colorado), the Ecuador Volcanoes are much warmer than winter in those places (but cooler in summer).

Ecuador temperatures for the highest volcanoes are similar to a summer climb of the high Cascade volcanoes.
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Re: Boots again ... In Ecuador

Postby Dane1 » Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:49 pm

In SA I've only climbed Aconcagua. So no real reference for me. And I hate bad advice based on speculation. I didn't have a problem wearing runners to 18K there several times. But if a storm had come in I'd been screwed and knew it.

That said.
If you are looking at a half day trip, "in Ecuador, most if not all Volcanoes are a 1/2 day outing.", sounds to me like you would be golden in the Trango. I wouldn't even bother with over boots. They are a pain IA with crampons generally. Travel light, go fast and stay warm :)

But this is all pur speculation on my part...and worth what you paid for it :)
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Re: Boots again ... In Ecuador

Postby ensonik » Sat Oct 27, 2012 3:08 pm

Again, thanks for the information all! I'll put a reminder in to come and update this thread with some extra information when I'm back from Ecuador.

Mike.
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Re: Boots again ... In Ecuador

Postby kcurchin » Sat Oct 27, 2012 5:35 pm

i climbed Cotopaxi and Cayambe in 2009.....you did not mention which mountains. Everyone in our group had plastic mountain boots...and they were fine. I might suggest going to the website of one of the many guiding companies that go to Ecuador....IMG, AAI, Mountain Madness (I think) and they have equipment lists. They would know best.
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Re: Boots again ... In Ecuador

Postby kevin trieu » Sat Oct 27, 2012 6:42 pm

ensonik wrote:Hi all,

First post ... :oops:

I will be in Ecuador to climb the higher volcanoes in January and have boot questions. I currently own and love a pair of La Sportiva Trango Extreme GTX. I believe the consensus would be that they aren't quite warm enough for the 6,000m peaks over there. Here in the North East, they've brought me through some very long and cold days without a problem so because I trust them and feel comfortable in them, I'd prefer to use those.

The question: Would using them in combination with the Forty Below K2 Superlight overboots bring them to a warmth level judged acceptable?

Thanks for any input.

Mike.


two of my main climbing partners used the LS Nepal with the same overboots in the Cordillera Blanca and Real for three months. got on top or attempted a dozen 6,000m peaks. the LS Nepal is slightly warmer than the Trango Extreme. i used the LS Buruntse. that's the boots you want. :)
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Re: Boots again ... In Ecuador

Postby bird » Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:58 pm

On Cotopaxi you leave from the hut to the summit, so your boots should be dry to start the day. With overboots, you should be fine (and may not need them), make sure you eat and drink plenty, and bring an extra layer for up top.
I didn't try Chimbo so can't say.
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Re: Boots again ... In Ecuador

Postby bkva » Tue Oct 30, 2012 2:37 am

I'm headed to Ecuador in January as well. I have both the LS Nepal and Baruntse. I'm packing the Baruntse. I'd rather have hot feet than cold feet.
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Re: Boots again ... In Ecuador

Postby ensonik » Mon Feb 04, 2013 3:29 am

Hi all,

Just came back from Ecuador and as promised, am letting you know what boots were used and how it went.

First off, I ended up leaving my boots at home and simply taking the ones the guiding outfit I'd chosen would give me. They lent me a pair of these ... I asked him if he was sure this would be enough for Cotopaxi and he said it was. They seemed to be pretty much the equivalent of my own boots (Sportiva Trango Extreme GTX).

As it turns out my feet were cold in them. Even before hitting the glacier, my toes were cold. When we stopped to put on crampons (at the glacier), I put in foot warmers which took care of the problem.

Mike.
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