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Mountaineering Tent

Postby Fire4x4 » Sun Nov 04, 2012 8:09 pm

Looking for a 4 season tent. I’ve narrowed it down between MH EV2 or the Trango2. Biggest difference I can see between the two is the weight of the Trango and that it is not a single wall along with the Trango having more room to keep things out of the weather. If money were no object, which tent would you go with and why?
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby kevin trieu » Sun Nov 04, 2012 8:42 pm

like most other gear question, your question will be answered with more questions. where and what are you going to use it for? one's a base camp tent and the other is for high camp. i have the Trango 2, Marmot Alpinist (equivalent to the EV2) and BD Firstlight. The Firstlight has been my tent of choice for mountaineering up to 6,000m, not including Denali.

The BD Firstlight high on Houndoy Norte, Peruvian Andes.
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby Damien Gildea » Mon Nov 05, 2012 12:22 am

The EV tents have a wide reputation for bad condensation, I've checked them out but I've never used one. They are long and light. Some people don't like the integrated vestibule. How big is your partner? EV2 is not big inside.

I've spent a year or two of my life in Trangos. They're popular for a reason. The T2 will be much warmer and less damp than the EV, but it depends where you will use it. It's heavy to carry high on an actual climbing route.

You often find the T2 on sale much cheaper than the EV2, which, given they are both decent tents, is a factor. Used hard, tents don't last forever.
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby Buz Groshong » Mon Nov 05, 2012 1:33 am

The Chief wrote:Firstlights are a great lightweight alpine 3+ Season platform.

BUT, sustained winds above 60mph will shred it if not tied/guided down appropriately where the Bibler "I" and MH EV2 are not as vulnerable due to their heavier materials.


The fabric on the Bibler I-tent is definitely far heavier than the Firstlight; should be much better for really heavy winds.
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby Dane1 » Fri Nov 09, 2012 2:47 am

Love the FL if I have to carry it. But, "The fabric on the Bibler I-tent is definitely far heavier than the Firstlight". I've sat through blows on Denali and watched the seams stretch from the inside looking out on a Bibler. Not a comforting feeling. Not comforting at all. Same blow would likely have shredded a FL.

Big difference in what I would willingly use a 4.5# climbing tent for and a 2.5# climbing tent for. Nice to have something even just a tiny bit bigger than a FL as well. Even the Eldorado seems much easier to actually live in and it has only a few inches more on floor space than the FL.
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby TimB » Fri Nov 09, 2012 4:19 pm

To the OP,
Just to 'throw it out there'- you might want to give Integral Designs tents a look-see.
I have had good luck with the older Mk1XL and Mega Sola bivy.
I just purchased an ID Mk1 lite bivy that looks hell-for-stout and not all that heavy:
http://promountainsports.com/index.php/shelter/bivy-sacs-bivy-tents/mk1-lite-bivy.html
Last edited by TimB on Fri Nov 09, 2012 8:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby Dane1 » Fri Nov 09, 2012 7:57 pm

I agree on the Integral Design tents. At least from the one ID I've used better than the original Biblers or current BD versions I think for sewing and quality.
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby johngenx » Sat Nov 10, 2012 5:33 am

Hilleberg make amazing burly tents.
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby radson » Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:18 am

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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby pvnisher » Sat Nov 10, 2012 10:33 pm

As others have said, depends on intended usage.

"Expedition" tent, "4-season tent", and "4-season mountaineering" tents can all have different meanings and different usages. What is your intended use?

For "expedition" your main focus is strength, square footage, liveability (which includes fq ft but also things like doors, windows, vestibules, top height). Definitely want a 3p size for 2p, because you will be spending a lot of time in it. It's probably going to be big, heavy, and expensive. Likely double wall.

For "4-season", ie backpacking and snowshoeing, you want those same things, but can sacrifice strength for weight (doesn't need to withstand Himalayan winds, just a good winter storm, hopefully nestled in the trees or off a ridge). If you're planning your trip and not stuck on a glacier, you probably won't head out into a blizzard, right? And you can get cheaper, quality options. REI and Kelty make some 4-season tents that are quite good for winter camping.

For "4-season mountaineering", weight and necessary (not comfy, necessary) sq ft are the drivers. You also want fast setup, particularly in the wind. I like singlewall for that, although there are some innovative double-wall tents with the fly permanently attached. I don't own one, though.

My choice: http://www.sierradesigns.com/p-148-convert-3.aspx. It wouldn't be my first choice for a long expedition, but since I haven't been on a long expedition I don't need those features. Single-wall, and is very long, which is important for me as a tall dude. I had a BD Firstlight at one point and sold it because my head and feet were jammed against the walls. I need a long tent. Also, I like that it has a zip-out section in the floor for digging snow, cooking, getting into the tent with your boots and crampons on (or putting crampons on inside the tent!), or the emergency midnight pee. Haven't seen that feature in many tents and it is awesome.

Downsides: No vestibule (the tent interior includes the "traditional" vestibule space, which is ok to keep all your gear inside with you), and isn't as bomber as some of the other tents. With the internal guyline kit (makes an "x" over each door) and properly guyed out it is very strong, never had an issue.
Main downside, which is similar to all single-wall tents, is condensation.


But the price point per square footage per pound is good. Again, depending on your intended usage of the tent and if you can afford more than one tent (ie, getting a specialized tent for different trips), you might want something else. But this is a good all-around winter shelter.
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby Deltaoperator17 » Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:51 am

Trango 3.1. Perfect for 2 and gear.
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby Kai » Mon Nov 19, 2012 5:57 pm

eVent fabric has great breathability.

http://us.rab.uk.com/products/equipment ... ntain.html
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby Fire4x4 » Tue Nov 20, 2012 10:51 pm

Thanks a lot for all of the input, I really appreciate it. Looks like I will have to do testing.
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby alpinelady1 » Wed Nov 21, 2012 1:12 am

I heard there is a new Mountain Hardware tent which is 2.2 lbs! It is supposed to perform just as well, if not better than firstlight. Does it?
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Re: Mountaineering Tent

Postby Damien Gildea » Wed Nov 21, 2012 4:22 am

The Direkt 2? http://www.mountainhardwear.com/tents/t ... lt,sc.html

I had a look at one but it is too short for me - I'm 6' 7". It's stronger than a Firstlight and would be more rainproof, but more importantly it has a guy line attachment in the middle of the wall. In a strong breeze the walls of the Firstlight flap a lot, even when the tent is basically stable, because each wall is only anchored at the edges. The Direkt 2 should feel, and be, stronger in high winds.
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