I get a good laugh out of this letter:
The Chief to Tom Higgins (guy who led Hair Raiser pitch and did not want any bolts added to his climb).http://legacy.climbing.com/print/letters/letters242/
"Down with the woolly mammoth
Tom Higgins, get over it! [Letters, June issue.] You, sir, do not own the route Hair Raiser Buttress. This is America. I am sick and tired of these “bolt wars” and [climbers believing that] their FA is sacred ground and is not to be touched by anyone. Be proud that you were the FAer and allow the legend of your abilities to remain true, as it so respectively has. Everyone knows that a Tom Higgins route is tough and spooky. (I will add, though, that I believe that Darryl Hansel’s work is far more sphincter-puckering than yours, even with the many added bolts that he never whined about.)
After 34 years of climbing all over this planet, I have finally come to realize that climbing is supposed to be fun. Climbing is a way of freedom to one’s soul and spirit. I ask that those “ego heads” who make routes so dangerous (why did you even place bolts in the first place if you were so damn good?) and call it “way old,” remain home in their rocking chairs to rethink the true value of the act and life of climbing.
I, for one, plead that we leave the conquering mentality out of the climbing world and remember that this whole thing we call climbing is to go out and enjoy the day, the company, the rock, and to simply find peace. Let’s leave the selfishness to the politicians and just go have fun!
— Rick Poedtke, Crowley Lake, California
Good one Rick. Glad you defend retro-bolting the 'old school' lines and want to go out an have fun on the rock that is brought down to your level. : ) Maybe those guys that retro bolt the other lines also want to have fun, but they are not on your level yet, so they bring a climb down a notch more. Everyone wants to lead a climb that will challenge them just enough that they 'have fun.'
Happy thanksgiving, let's all HAVE FUN!
project that I thought I would get on 30+ yrs ago.
Not sure I can haul your ass, but I can haul loads and do best to attempt it...maybe Rick can come along and we all could have fun