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Gannett Glaciers

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Gannett Glaciers

Postby WyomingSummits » Fri Feb 01, 2013 5:39 am

What is the crevasse risk on Gannett glaciers? I know the glaciers in that area such as Dinwoody and Gooseneck aren't massive and aren't making dramatic turns and dips which causes greater fissures to develop. Is the primary obstacle the snow bridge crossing the bergshrund for the Gooseneck couloir route? I'm planning a trip in July and am weighing how many people to take, gear, logistics, and overall skillset of the people going. From what I've seen, most crevasses there are fairly narrow and identifiable, but I don't want to take a casual approach to it.

Thanks!
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby Catamount » Fri Feb 01, 2013 6:47 am

I have planned two trips to Gannett in the last fews years, both in the last week in July and both via the Dinwoody Glacier/Gooseneck couloir approach. In both instances, there was no discussion or concern about hidden crevasses. The only area of note if you stay on route is the snow bridge at the bergschrund.

In 2010, I had to turn around and head home after arriving in Wyoming due to a family emergency but the rest of my party summitted. Here is the shot of the route taken by a team member on July 20:

Image

In 2012, there was significantly less snowpack and the bergschrund was wide open but still no other crevasses along the entire route. Here is my own shot looking back on July 23 after I successfully summited:

Image

In both photos, you can see that you want to stay left near the rocky area, perhaps even climbing on the rock if conditions are good for it, and then sweep to the right before coming back slightly to your left to the bergschrund and straight up the couloir.
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby WyomingSummits » Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:27 pm

Thanks for the info! That was what I suspected but it definitely never hurts to ask! I'm planning on early-mid July so the snow bridge should still be in decent shape provided the snowfall was adequate.
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby Catamount » Fri Feb 01, 2013 3:20 pm

No problem. The only other thing I should have mentioned in my first post is that the route shown is from the Glacier Trail approach. If you're planning on coming over Bonney Pass and hitting the Dinwoody Glacier from there, I don't think there are any crevasse issues along the route but can't speak from first-hand experience. Have a great trip.
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby splattski » Fri Feb 01, 2013 11:33 pm

I know someone who fell in a crevasse crossing from Bonney. I don't think it's ever a good assumption that there will be no crevasses on ANY glacier. And when we did it, we could see crevasses. That said, we did it without a rope.
Also note that from Titcomb Basin, you really won't see the upper route very well until you are there. And when we went, the bergie was almost 100% closed.
TR with pics:
http://www.splattski.com/2010/gannett/index.html
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby 96avs01 » Sat Feb 02, 2013 12:41 am

I agree with Splatski, we did see crevasses coming from Bonney Pass, some large enough they couldn't be easily jumped. We opted to be overly-cautious and roped up. Only crossed 2 substantial snowbridges, one over the berg and one lower down.
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby WyomingSummits » Sat Feb 02, 2013 1:17 am

I'm definitely assuming there are crevasses. I was more trying to find out the extent and navigating difficulty. Thanks!
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby reboyles » Sat Feb 02, 2013 12:29 pm

I was with Splattski and prior to going we were kind of back-and-forth about carrying a rope and gear for the climb. A friend of ours told us about falling in a crevasse while crossing (unroped) only to be saved by his pack. He got wedged into the mouth of the crevasse and managed to get out okay. Makes one think a bit (or at least it should). After spending a bit of time studying late summer photos of the glaciers here on SP, we opted to not take a rope or anchors. We knew from the photos where the compression zones were, we were going in the "early" season, and we'd be doing some of the crossing on snowshoes which are less likely to punch through a bridge. Without those three things in our favor, I would have carried my 8mm, 30m rope and a few anchors. As it turned out we had no problems but the hair still raises on my back every time I cross a glacier unroped.

Bob
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby Alpinist » Mon Feb 04, 2013 6:17 pm

I read from several sources that the crevasse risk on Gannett is very low. We brought a glacier rope with us when I was there but only planned to use it if the bergshrund was open.

Alarmingly, I punched through a snow bridge with one leg somewhere below Gooseneck Pinnacle, about where that group is in the above photo. I was NOT roped at the time so I rolled out of that position rather quickly. I glanced down the hole after I pulled my leg out but it was too dark to know if it was 5ft or 50ft deep.

The bergshrund was half collapsed but we were able to make it across without roping up.
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby tigerlilly » Wed Feb 06, 2013 3:11 am

We hiked across the glacier without a rope. It was hard pack with little streams of water running down it. (the water was delicious) I have a photo posted if you are curious. We hiked during the 1st wknd of August. The bergshrund was collapsed and we could not cross. I do remember that I punched through at one point and went in up to my thigh, before I gingerly pulled out my leg. But that occurred right when I was about to step up onto a rock, off from the glacier. So, the snow was thin.

Have fun on Bonny pass... !!!! :-)
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby pyerger » Wed Feb 06, 2013 3:35 pm

WyomingSummits wrote:What is the crevasse risk on Gannett glaciers? I know the glaciers in that area such as Dinwoody and Gooseneck aren't massive and aren't making dramatic turns and dips which causes greater fissures to develop. Is the primary obstacle the snow bridge crossing the bergshrund for the Gooseneck couloir route? I'm planning a trip in July and am weighing how many people to take, gear, logistics, and overall skillset of the people going. From what I've seen, most crevasses there are fairly narrow and identifiable, but I don't want to take a casual approach to it.

Thanks!

What way are you going in? I was there in early september, of 2006, via Titcomb basin, the winter snows where gone, and I was able to see just how many crevasses there are on Dinwoody glacier. (There were many!) most are small, but you could still get stuck in one, if you are not roped. In July, most if not all are still covered, and I have crossed Dinwoody, without a rope, which is somewhat risky because they are hidden. That being said, I would probably go roped, with a big group of people. Ice ax and crampons are a must for Bonney pass if you go that way? If your coming in from the Glacier trail, side there is much less glacier travel, and, you may want to have a rope, just for crossing the shrund.
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby misubri » Thu Feb 14, 2013 9:38 pm

I am looking for a partner to do Gannett (see my previous separate post). I was planning on going sometime this summer but really open as to when. I think it would be better in perhaps June than July. But again, I am open. I have a good deal of alpine experience. I was just hoping to find someone who knows the area.
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Re: Gannett Glaciers

Postby WyomingSummits » Fri Feb 15, 2013 4:24 am

Don't think I could swing June. I have Tetons, Yellowstone, and Devils Tower already booked for June. Tetons again in late July-early August. Planning tentatively for Gannett in Mid July. Remote stuff in the Bighorns in late August. Maybe Granite peak in Sept......gonna be a busy summer.
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