The Chief wrote:Ah, why not just cut it to size when you get the cord at the local gear shop with their hot knife.
Moot issue really....
The Chief wrote:^^^^^^^^^^^^And where do you buy your cord when in need to replace slings on your chock/Pro?^^^^^^
Point is, when initially purchasing the cord to replace them slinged chocks, cut them to size by using the heat knife at the location you get it from.
Another old trick is to cut the cord at 60 or so degree angled slice thus creating a nice slanted point making the initial insertion that much easier.
WyomingSummits wrote:...Most of us can't justify a $200 rope cutter just to cut a few pieces of rope or cord per year. ...
The Chief wrote:WyomingSummits wrote:[. And, you never know when you may need to be able to do this in the field. Last time I checked, there isn't a gear shop in the Cirque of the towers. Just saying.
And most of us gave up on cord slung chocks/stoppers over 25 years ago when all Stoppers and even Hex's went to WIRE.
The Chief wrote:WyomingSummits wrote: It is nice to have a couple in the bag in case you need to set up a fixed rap anchor in a pinch and would rather not leave a nicer cabled one. If I'd known how to replace the wires....trust me, I would have! All of my lead stoppers are on wire...I cord worn out extras to teach new climbers and for a couple of backups.
That is why you buy em cheap on ebay and gather a large collection of both "lead" and "leaver" stoppers.
That shot doesn't even show all the #1-4 Micro Steel, RP's and HB Offsets.
The Chief wrote:And these..
Repairing cables on stoppers are a breeze. Make my own heads and rivet hangers as well.
WyomingSummits wrote:When cutting cord to restring climbing pro, there are a number of things that can make it a real PITA. There is nothing worse than trying to thread 5mm through a 5.5mm hole with a big lump of melted rope on the end.
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