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Guide recommendation for Mt. Shasta

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Guide recommendation for Mt. Shasta

Postby ajaysomani » Mon Mar 18, 2013 10:04 pm

We are a group of 5 people looking to climb the Avalanche Gulch or any other easy route on May 4th-5th weekend on Shasta. We don't have much technical skills but we are otherwise fit people (one of us have summited Cotopaxi in Ecuador, two others have summited Kilimanjaro) and are comfortable using crampons etc. We'd like to find a good guide for 5 of us that can make our climb safe but we're looking for cheaper options. We will probably bring all of our equipment and tents etc. Can anybody recommend me something?

Thank you!
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Re: Guide recommendation for Mt. Shasta

Postby mrchad9 » Mon Mar 18, 2013 10:10 pm

I am not sure why you are looking for a guide. Doesn't sound like you need one... what are you wanting to get out of them?
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Re: Guide recommendation for Mt. Shasta

Postby ajaysomani » Mon Mar 18, 2013 10:41 pm

Avalanche safety and route finding skills mostly. I tried to go to Mt. Shasta last year using clear creek route with some other friends of mine and we got lost (Yes, we are that bad!). I mean we could see the peak but were never sure which route was the "easy" one. We descended back fine.
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Re: Guide recommendation for Mt. Shasta

Postby mrchad9 » Mon Mar 18, 2013 10:49 pm

Avalanche Gulch will have many other people on the route that weekend. Unless there is a whiteout, you will NOT get lost. Sure!

Avalanches will not be an issue either. Maybe some wet slides on the sides of the ridges, but nothing to be concerned about.

There are occasional guided groups on that route, but by and large that is not the norm. The guides more often do West Face, Hotlum-Bolam Ridge, or more remote things like Hotlum Glacier or Hotlum-Wintun Ridge.

Also, you can likely see other climbers descending when you are at camp, or discuss the route with them. The only part that is any question is deciding exactly where to pass the red banks.

Anyway that is my thought. If you still want a guide, unfortunately I don't have any personal experience with them there, but someone here will chime in.
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Re: Guide recommendation for Mt. Shasta

Postby Jesus Malverde » Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:20 am

ajaysomani,
On the link below, scroll down to see climbing guide services that the U.S. Forest Service authorizes to operate on Mt. Shasta.
http://www.thefifthseason.com/climginginfo.html

FWIW,
If you must go guided, the West Face Gully route is probably more interesting, enjoyable (and way less crowded). Have fun!
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Re: Guide recommendation for Mt. Shasta

Postby ScottyP » Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:58 am

Hire a guide! You can learn a lot, worry less and enjoy the climb. Check out Shasta Mountain Guides, Chris and Robin are on here often. Enjoy the climb, learn a lot then come back sans guide and do it again. Just my .02
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Re: Guide recommendation for Mt. Shasta

Postby Vitaliy M. » Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:40 pm

Hiring a guide for Avalanche Gulch/West Face of Mt. Shasta is not needed at all. If you want someone to show you the way though, I know a few people who can help for no more than 200$/person.
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Re: Guide recommendation for Mt. Shasta

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Mar 19, 2013 10:40 pm

Sierra Mountaineering Group does illegal guiding and the USFS seems to be ok with it.

Actually I am surprised they haven't been shut down. But no one seems to stop it.
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Re: Guide recommendation for Mt. Shasta

Postby Bob Burd » Wed Mar 20, 2013 12:55 am

telewoman wrote:Whiteouts are very common and I've been on the mountain especially the beginning of May. It's very easy to get disoriented on the mountain on any route. There's no trail and route finding and navigation skills are a must. The mountain creates in own weather especially above the Red Banks.


GPS -> Track -> Traceback
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Re: Guide recommendation for Mt. Shasta

Postby Vitaliy M. » Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:52 am

telewoman wrote:
Vitaliy M. wrote:Hiring a guide for Avalanche Gulch/West Face of Mt. Shasta is not needed at all. If you want someone to show you the way though, I know a few people who can help for no more than 200$/person.


This is called pirate guiding and is illegal!


How many guides that do business on Mt. Shasta are AMGA certified? What makes them qualified to guide on the mountain over other people with same b/s certifications (like Avy 1/2, WFR, leave no trace etc) other than the fact they are employed by a service?
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