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Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

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Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby clmbr » Sun Jul 14, 2013 12:27 am

This was a second attempt in two weeks. The first attempt we had to cut short because Chad camped on the (false) summit that night and brought a rainy storm to the mountain. Perhaps Shasta did not like them sleeping on the top. :o :D

Anyway, we practiced various skills necessary for glacier traverse and finally were able to get on Hotlum Glacier to practice crevasse navigation, detecting, and crossing over snow bridges. It sounds simple but for many of the team members it was the first encounter with this type of challenges. However, they all did well and I had no problem to rope with them. (I cannot remember when the last time I roped on a glacier.) It is my small contribution to keep people safe in the mountains.

Falling!!!
Image

As of conditions, it was warm and snow bridges were soft. The Hotlum Glacier is in a good shape though. However, one has to be careful with route choice and crevasse crossing because there are many hidden traps and other surprises or disappointments awaiting inexperienced climbers.

Here is the video with highlights:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPzAV_T-cKc


For more extended footage check out the trip report:
Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

*
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Re: Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby Jesus Malverde » Mon Jul 15, 2013 6:17 am

clmbr,

You still "guiding" Shasta? :)

"It sounds simple but for many of the team members it was the first encounter with this type of challenges. However, they all did well and I had no problem to rope with them. (I cannot remember when the last time I roped on a glacier.) It is my small contribution to keep people safe in the mountains."

news-from-mt-shasta-on-memorial-day-weekend-2013-t65190.html
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Re: Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby mrchad9 » Mon Jul 15, 2013 4:55 pm

Did you summit?
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Re: Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby clmbr » Tue Jul 16, 2013 12:35 am

mrchad9 wrote:Did you summit?

No.
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Re: Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Jul 16, 2013 12:40 am

I am a little confused though. Six week ago you were complaining about folks that were using guides on Mount Shasta, especially since they weren't the real professional guides of the past.

But this weekend you were guiding and training a group. The same no?
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Re: Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby clmbr » Tue Jul 16, 2013 12:49 am

Jesus Malverde wrote:clmbr,

You still "guiding" Shasta? :)

"It sounds simple but for many of the team members it was the first encounter with this type of challenges. However, they all did well and I had no problem to rope with them. (I cannot remember when the last time I roped on a glacier.) It is my small contribution to keep people safe in the mountains."

news-from-mt-shasta-on-memorial-day-weekend-2013-t65190.html

Well, I'm still climbing :D and am not guiding but leading in the right direction and helping with things the right way (my way). In fact, I've been always helping people in the mountains, especially those in trouble. This is the way I learned in the Alps while starting mountaineering. Safety first.

On the other hand, I've been recently taking under account that solo (glacier) climbing may become for me a bit too dangerous and, perhaps, it would be better to have some company. However, I want to be able to trust that company not because they tell me what they can do (or classes they took) but actually doing it. Climbing is one thing and (self) rescue skill is another thing. Most people focus on the first one. :(

Why I always have to be alone on glaciers. Don't people like them? :roll:
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Re: Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby clmbr » Tue Jul 16, 2013 1:15 am

mrchad9 wrote:I am a little confused though. Six week ago you were complaining about folks that were using guides on Mount Shasta, especially since they weren't the real professional guides of the past.

Yes.

But this weekend you were guiding and training a group. The same no?

No.

In fact, one of our teammates just took a class on Rainer and could not self arrest under the pressure of a fallen climber. I just referred to simple physic rules and after adjustments everything worked well. The sad part is these people trust their professional guides and are proud of taking their classes.
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Re: Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby powderjunkie » Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:24 am

looks and sounds like guiding

also, you're naming your videos Shasta Base Camp which implies that you are guiding for that outdoor shop in Mt. Shasta. you should consider changing the titles of your videos.
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Re: Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:37 am

Oh it's definitely guiding.

Clmbr, did you teach them how to properly use an ice ax leash? I don't see one in the photo.

I hope it covered jumping over crevasses!
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Re: Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby clmbr » Tue Jul 16, 2013 4:33 pm

Hi Chad,

I've heard you and a few other guys had a wonderful trip on Shasta last weekend.

Are you going to post a trip report?
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Re: Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Jul 16, 2013 4:36 pm

No trip report! I'll post a few pics, and put up a page with some info later on.
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Re: Hotlum Glacier Traverse & Crevasse Rescue Practice

Postby clmbr » Tue Jul 16, 2013 4:41 pm

mrchad9 wrote:No trip report! I'll post a few pics, and put up a page with some info later on.

OK, let me know...
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