Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Northern Rockies. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Northern Rockies Climbing Partners section.
 

Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby montanajames » Mon Jul 22, 2013 11:50 pm

Has anyone been backpacking in this area yet? It's been a hot summer already, so I'm wondering if the couloir might melt out earlier than usual. Anyone planning on climbing in the next couple weeks? I'm planning on going in a month or so.
User Avatar
montanajames

 
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:41 am
Location: Great Falls, Montana, United States
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby Matt Lemke » Tue Jul 23, 2013 1:26 am

In a month it will be dry for sure
User Avatar
Matt Lemke

 
Posts: 480
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 8:34 am
Location: Red Lodge, Montana, United States
Thanked: 87 times in 68 posts

The following user would like to thank Matt Lemke for this post
montanajames

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby BadgerSummitSeeker » Tue Jul 23, 2013 4:09 pm

Montanajames, sounds like you'll be there about the same time as me. I'm arriving in Salt Lake City on 8-29 and am considering climbs of Borah, ID, Granite and Kings, UT. In the small chance I don't have to wait out any weather I might make an attempt at all 3, otherwise I'll be happy to hit 2 of 3 in the 6 days I'll be there. What day will you be climbing it? Maybe I'll see you out there on the trail. Are you planning to take the Aero Lakes route or Skytop Creek? I had an unsuccessful attempt a few years ago due to there still being snow and ice in the couloir around Aug. 18 of that year. Made it to about 12,300' or so. I've been aching for revenge ever since.
User Avatar
BadgerSummitSeeker

 
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:05 am
Location: Windsor, Wisconsin, United States
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby montanajames » Tue Jul 23, 2013 8:23 pm

I'm hiking in on August 31 and camping. Hoping to get to the top on September 1 and hike out. I have an extra day for potential weather issues. I will be going via Skytop Creek, which I attempted in 2011 and enjoyed the route. I didn't make it to the top that year, but am more prepared (and in much better shape) this year. You'll have to let me know if you're going to be in the area at the time. Good luck on the trifecta.
User Avatar
montanajames

 
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:41 am
Location: Great Falls, Montana, United States
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby BadgerSummitSeeker » Wed Jul 24, 2013 2:26 am

Montanajames, It's completely likely that I may be heading up the trail that same day. I was debating back and forth about whether to start on Kings or Borah. If I do Borah first then I'd be coming up the Granite Peak trail that same day as you (since Borah should only take a day). Let me know if you want company on summit day. I was prepared to do the mountain solo after my partner backed out last week but I know my wife would be sleeping easier if she knew I wasn't climbing that peak alone. I'm familiar with the route from 3 years ago but was just hoping not to summit alone. I planned to establish a high camp near the upper most Skytop Lake just to bring a stronger chance at summiting before any bad weather moves in. 3 years ago my friend and I camped at one of the lower Skytop Lakes, which was fine, but I remember thinking that we could have shortened the summit approach by at least 30-45 minutes by camping farther up. If you feel like having some company let me know. Don't worry if you'd rather climb alone or don't want to expand your group. I'll just go solo if I need to. Enjoy your climb!!
User Avatar
BadgerSummitSeeker

 
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:05 am
Location: Windsor, Wisconsin, United States
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby mrchad9 » Wed Jul 24, 2013 2:48 am

This thread needs pics! Here is my camp below Sky Top Glacier following a hail storm last year...

image.jpg
image.jpg (610.1 KiB) Viewed 1959 times


image.jpg
image.jpg (464.47 KiB) Viewed 1959 times
User Avatar
mrchad9

 
Posts: 4116
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:01 am
Location: San Ramon, California, United States
Thanked: 1187 times in 800 posts

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby montanajames » Wed Jul 24, 2013 6:23 am

@badgersummitseeker, you would be more than welcome to join our group if you want. There will be 5 or 6 of us, all family. We'll also be aiming for Upper Sky Top Lake, or maybe even the site in the picture MrChad9 just posted. The shorter the distance on summit day, the better our chances of success, I suppose. If you decide that your timing works out and want to join, PM me a week or so before the climb and we can exchange contact info.

@MrChad9 - great pics!!!!
User Avatar
montanajames

 
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:41 am
Location: Great Falls, Montana, United States
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby sm0421 » Fri Jul 26, 2013 3:07 pm

Hey man, we went Aug 14th in 2012. It probably was not as dry as this year but in the couloir there was only 1 major snow patch (small), and up in the chimney there is one place where it was wet.

Image
User Avatar
sm0421

 
Posts: 136
Joined: Mon May 03, 2010 9:48 pm
Location: Reading, Pennsylvania, United States
Thanked: 24 times in 17 posts

The following user would like to thank sm0421 for this post
montanajames, mrchad9

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby Matt Lemke » Fri Aug 09, 2013 3:59 pm

I was just there last weekend...dry as a bone!
User Avatar
Matt Lemke

 
Posts: 480
Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 8:34 am
Location: Red Lodge, Montana, United States
Thanked: 87 times in 68 posts

The following user would like to thank Matt Lemke for this post
BadgerSummitSeeker, montanajames, reboyles

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby BadgerSummitSeeker » Fri Aug 09, 2013 11:25 pm

Great news to hear that the couloir is dry. I ran into too much ice in Mid-August 2010 and had to turn around. Looking forward to revenge in a few weeks. Hopefully it won't start snowing before then. Sounds like I just may have ideal ground conditions for my return visit. Fingers are crossed.
User Avatar
BadgerSummitSeeker

 
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:05 am
Location: Windsor, Wisconsin, United States
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby sm0421 » Wed Aug 21, 2013 2:44 am

any updates?

I plan on going back to this route in 2014 with ice axe, crampons, ropes and rock protections. I turned around in the couloir in 2012 because it was beyond my comfort zone (definitely at least class 4 for me, I did Borah Peak and that was class 2/3).
User Avatar
sm0421

 
Posts: 136
Joined: Mon May 03, 2010 9:48 pm
Location: Reading, Pennsylvania, United States
Thanked: 24 times in 17 posts

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby mrchad9 » Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:05 am

Are you sure you were on route? It's no harder than Borah really. Just 2-3 little spots you have to get over within the chute.
User Avatar
mrchad9

 
Posts: 4116
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:01 am
Location: San Ramon, California, United States
Thanked: 1187 times in 800 posts

The following user would like to thank mrchad9 for this post
montanajames

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby Morlow » Wed Aug 21, 2013 5:11 am

Yeah it sounds like you were off route. I did it last summer in July and the crux was the last remaining section of snow/ice in the coulior, not rock. If you take your time routefinding at the top of the coulior you can keep it to class 3.
User Avatar
Morlow

 
Posts: 110
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:29 am
Location: Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, United States
Thanked: 6 times in 6 posts

The following user would like to thank Morlow for this post
montanajames

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby sm0421 » Wed Aug 21, 2013 5:58 pm

Hi Chad and Morlow, thank you for the feedback! I think the obstacle for me was a late start, lose rocks and a fear of exposure and height, when I climbed Borah the rocks are solid and there was basically no 'vertical cliff', just steep slopes, SW couloir has the intimidating slab as well as super steep couloir, which looks dangerous to downclimb. I will go back with some protection in hope to overcome my fear, next month I'm heading to MR route on Whitney to also train for hiking up/down steep chimneys, and hopefully I'll find experience rock climbers to go with~
User Avatar
sm0421

 
Posts: 136
Joined: Mon May 03, 2010 9:48 pm
Location: Reading, Pennsylvania, United States
Thanked: 24 times in 17 posts

Re: Granite Peak Southwest Couloir conditions 2013

Postby mrchad9 » Wed Aug 21, 2013 6:15 pm

At the top of the couloir on Whitney MR, if you turn left and go up the chute instead of doing the traverse, I'd say it is comparable to Granite Peak. So if you can shimmy up that then Granite should be good to go.

The couloir was sketchy when I went! In the first pic you can see a bit of a chockstone there. I think that was the crux, at least when I went, as getting around it required climbing up a short wall with about 1/4 inch of ice covering it. Might be a different spot in dry conditions.

IMG_1107.JPG
IMG_1107.JPG (492.21 KiB) Viewed 1237 times


IMG_1119.JPG
IMG_1119.JPG (558.56 KiB) Viewed 1237 times


IMG_1271.JPG
IMG_1271.JPG (771.08 KiB) Viewed 1237 times
User Avatar
mrchad9

 
Posts: 4116
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:01 am
Location: San Ramon, California, United States
Thanked: 1187 times in 800 posts

Next

Return to Northern Rockies (ID, MT, WY)

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.