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possible new route on Mt. Jackson, G.N.P.?

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possible new route on Mt. Jackson, G.N.P.?

Postby sushiman » Mon Aug 19, 2013 5:38 pm

I guess this is as good as any place to start checking...

Does anybody know if the south ridge of Mt. Jackson has been climbed?
This would be the ridge rising from the Jackson Glacier/Harrison Glacer saddle,
(I believe its point 7852?) following the Continental Divide to the summit.

we climbed this ridge on Sunday August 18th and were stunned by the quality of the route.
lots of steep scrambling mixed with a few easier 5.6/5.7 short pitches.

would love to hear if anybody on this site has climbed it or knows of anybody that has!
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Re: possible new route on Mt. Jackson, G.N.P.?

Postby Jesus Malverde » Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:09 am

sushiman,

You ask an interesting question.
I realize this isn't much help, but here goes:

I checked:
The American Alpine Journal online
http://americanalpineclub.org/site/aajsearch
There is a reference in the AAJ index for 2003 for Mt. Jackson (GNP) pg. 215-216, however it looks the Northwest couloir/Shades of Grey and Alpenglow

Climbers Guide to Montana, pg. 66 for Mt. Jackson
No references to the south ridge

Climbers Guide to Glacier National Park (via Google Books, not sure of the edition/vintage)
No reference to the south ridge I could find

Extensive general Google Fu on Mt. Jackson/GNP/south routes/ variations (including image searching)
No luck

http://www.MountainProject.com
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/montana/105907492
No luck

http://www.peakbagger.com
http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=4802
no luck on selected trip reports

cursory search on Supertopo.com
no luck

If you haven't tried already, you could try contacting:

The Montana Mountaineering Association
http://www.montanamountaineering.org/contact.shtml

Glacier Mountaineering Society (GMS)
http://www.glaciermountaineers.com/contact-gms.html

Blake Passmore (author of the Climb Glacier National Park series)
http://www.climbglacier.com/Contact_Us.html

Last resort: any climbing/SAR NPS Rangers at Glacier National Park (yes, a longshot I know)
http://www.nps.gov/glac/contacts.htm

Also, it's possible there might be something in the Alpine Club of Canada journal
https://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/CAJ-DVD/index.html

BTW, good job on climbing that route! :)
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Re: possible new route on Mt. Jackson, G.N.P.?

Postby Vitaliy M. » Wed Aug 21, 2013 6:42 am

post a trip report on supertopo.com. there most likely will be some local climbers who will throw in their 2 cents! Congrats no matter if it is a FA or not, sounds like you had lots of fun and a lot of exploratory climbing was done!
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Re: possible new route on Mt. Jackson, G.N.P.?

Postby GlacierCountry » Wed Aug 21, 2013 2:48 pm

What was your starting point? Curious how you got into that side and chose that route.
Mountains and Music
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Re: possible new route on Mt. Jackson, G.N.P.?

Postby Jesus Malverde » Wed Aug 21, 2013 7:31 pm

also FWIW:

Guide to the Montana Mountaineers Scrapbooks
1922-1953
http://nwda.orbiscascade.org/ark:/80444/xv99200
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Re: possible new route on Mt. Jackson, G.N.P.?

Postby Jesus Malverde » Thu Aug 22, 2013 11:47 pm

More FWIW:
Per the article on J. Gordon Edwards:
"He kept a chronological history of first ascents" of mountains in Glacier," said another longtime friend, George Ostrom of Kalispell, "and he made a number of them.
http://www.greatfallstribune.com/news/s ... 84868.html
Also:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/threa ... id=1755661
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Re: possible new route on Mt. Jackson, G.N.P.?

Postby sushiman » Fri Aug 30, 2013 7:02 pm

thanks for all of the links guys...

to glacier country: we made it to the saddle by camping undesignated in Jackson glacier basin. the following morning we made a very easy rising traverse towards the head of the Jackson glacier. near the top it is almost flat with very little crevasse danger (we did not rope up). this is the route Edwards suggests in his book under the mount Walton section. from the saddle we just tried to stay as close to the ridge crest (continental divide) as possible. this was a really fun route because of its amazing position, the climbing itself reminded me of the west ridge of Mount ewards.

by the way, I have since found evidence that this was not a first ascent, but would be my recommended way up this mountain if you have a little technical experience!
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