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Colorado Mid April Alpine Climbing - Partner Wanted

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the U.S. Rocky Mountains. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Colorado Climbing Partners section.
 

Colorado Mid April Alpine Climbing - Partner Wanted

Postby ashish » Thu Mar 06, 2014 6:18 am

I will in Colorado between 19th and 22nd of April. I would like to do an alpine climb - something that would need scrambling/ridge climbing and easy class 5 near summit. I may also look into something more challenging. Let me know if you are interested. I have some ideas:

1. Mt. Bancroft - East Ridge Direct
2. Ouzel Peak - East Ridge
3. Mt. Meeker - Dreamweaver
4. Mt. Lady Washington - Martha

I may also be interested in couloirs, if some are ready by then. I am training for Mt. Rainier in September, so I should be in decent shape to climb. I have limited experience with trad, but I have experience with ice axe and crampons and sport leading. I soloed Mt. Hood last year on standard route. PM or reply if interested.

Cheers,

Ashish
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Re: Colorado Mid April Alpine Climbing - Partner Wanted

Postby Matt Lemke » Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:03 am

Dreamweaver is a classic...been wanting to do that one for a couple years now
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Re: Colorado Mid April Alpine Climbing - Partner Wanted

Postby ashish » Fri Mar 07, 2014 4:50 am

So would you be interested?
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Re: Colorado Mid April Alpine Climbing - Partner Wanted

Postby Matt Lemke » Fri Mar 07, 2014 5:33 am

Yes actually....I don't know if I'll have that time off work yet though. There is a chance I could get a lot of time off next month though so I'll let you know.
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Re: Colorado Mid April Alpine Climbing - Partner Wanted

Postby JonW » Fri Mar 07, 2014 2:47 pm

Martha and Dreamweaver are both classic routes. Martha is an earlier season route than Dreamweaver and may still be in good shape by end of April. End of April may be a touch early for Dreamweaver this year, but you never know this far in advance. The Mountain Project CO ice conditions page is the place to look for updates. Both this routes are popular enough to always get good beta on conditions.
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Re: Colorado Mid April Alpine Climbing - Partner Wanted

Postby Kiefer » Fri Mar 07, 2014 11:48 pm

ashish wrote:I will in Colorado between 19th and 22nd of April. I would like to do an alpine climb - something that would need scrambling/ridge climbing and easy class 5 near summit. I may also look into something more challenging. Let me know if you are interested. I have some ideas:

1. Mt. Bancroft - East Ridge Direct
2. Ouzel Peak - East Ridge
3. Mt. Meeker - Dreamweaver
4. Mt. Lady Washington - Martha

I may also be interested in couloirs, if some are ready by then. I am training for Mt. Rainier in September, so I should be in decent shape to climb. I have limited experience with trad, but I have experience with ice axe and crampons and sport leading. I soloed Mt. Hood last year on standard route. PM or reply if interested.

Cheers,

Ashish


Ash,
I'd do East Ridge of Bancroft with ya and I'd LOVE to head back up Dreamweaver again.
That line is in my top-3 all time favs. It has pretty much everything.

I'd love to do Marthas as well, but I'd wait till conditions are good on that one. There's not much wiggle room in there. Though stemming with points
is actually a lot of fun (IMO).
Two folks went up last month I believe (they're on 14ers.com) and encountered WI2/M2 at most. Not much of a challenge if you ask me.
I don't hang out on 14ers.com anymore, so PM me here if ya want partners later this season!
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Re: Colorado Mid April Alpine Climbing - Partner Wanted

Postby ashish » Sat Mar 08, 2014 5:03 pm

Thanks for the response guys - since I will be there for a few days, I plan to do more than one route - so we can plan accordingly. As far as avalanche experience is concerned - I have taken a full day course with a certified CMS guide about avalanches where we covered class room material and went out and practiced using beacon and probe; however, I have not taken a formal avy class. I am a cautious climber and climb within my skills while pushing my abilities. I like to get back to home to my wife. If this is ok with you guys, lets get a plan together as the date approaches.
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Re: Colorado Mid April Alpine Climbing - Partner Wanted

Postby dien2liv » Tue Apr 08, 2014 6:33 pm

Did Martha on 3/15/14, definitely still winter, mashed potato snow in the constrictions, ice at the top. still very wintery in estes as of this week. the north facing stuff like Dreamweaver and the Dutchman may need some more time to set up for ideal conditions but "ideal" is subjective. I would recommend coming down to Pikes peak as it is a bit warmer and dryer here and the snow progresses a little faster. Going to climb some of the N. side coluloirs tomorrow, will be posting a full conditions report. Keep me posted if you are interested in the pikes region.
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Re: Colorado Mid April Alpine Climbing - Partner Wanted

Postby mconnell » Tue Apr 08, 2014 9:12 pm

dien2liv wrote:Did Martha on 3/15/14, definitely still winter, mashed potato snow in the constrictions, ice at the top. still very wintery in estes as of this week. the north facing stuff like Dreamweaver and the Dutchman may need some more time to set up for ideal conditions but "ideal" is subjective. I would recommend coming down to Pikes peak as it is a bit warmer and dryer here and the snow progresses a little faster. Going to climb some of the N. side coluloirs tomorrow, will be posting a full conditions report. Keep me posted if you are interested in the pikes region.


Pikes 2 weeks ago was a sugar snow fest when off the trail (I was on the west side, between Pikes and Sentinel Pt.) A breakable crust with bottomless sugar beneath it. Not much fun since I was wearing trail runners. I don't didn't get over to the North Face (Y and Railroad Couloirs) but I expect it would not have been easy getting there. Once the snow from yesterday consolidates, I might run up there (maybe this weekend).
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