Title pretty much sums it up. Would love an excuse to get up to Washington, & I've got a 2nd date with Jefferson on the way. Anybody know the conditions? Vehicle access? Snow line? Crevasses/'schrunds? Anybody interested in meeting up to do either? In case you're unfamiliar with the routes, both mostly steep snow to icefall/(from what I understand) mellow ice climbing; some easier rock climbing on volcanic choss (i.e. possible belays), too. I'd be driving from the Bay Area. Beta appreciated- thanks!
Can't give you exact beta on Jeff glacier, but in general a few weeks ago we found full blown summer conditions below 5.5K, and winter holding on above 9K. Suspect that's changed quite a bit since then. Summit of Jeff (West-facing) was solid rime as of late May. Hope you get better info than I can offer. Enjoy.