Self-belay climbing using Micro Traxion

[Simkin]

This video show solo top-rope climbing using Micro Traxion for self-belay.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_NMRAp_NeY

What would you recommend for solo lead climbing?

[beean]

I use a similar method for TR solo, but I pre-tie knots and have two 60cm draws which I use to clip the knots in an alternating fashion. This way I'm never relying solely on my micro trax.

Solo lead climbing you should use a Silent Partner. I've used a grigri2 for solo aid, it worked well. Free climbing not so good.

[Brian C]

I've done a bit like this. Just make sure not to develop any slack as this type of device has teeth that can damage the rope in a shock load situation.

EDIT:
Just watched the attached video and this demonstrates an arguably unsafe way to top-rope-solo. Check out mountainproject and do a search through the forum there as this has been discussed quite a bit. The normal way to top-rope-solo is weighting the rope at the bottom so slack feeds better and then using two devices so as to have a backup incase of failure.

[Bob Sihler]

For TR solo, I have used two systems:

1. Two ropes, ascender on one and pretied backup knots on the other, two locking carabiners for the backups so I am always clipped into at least one knot.

1. Two ropes, ascender on one and microcender on the other, with both ropes weighted at the end to feed better.

The first has the benefit of that backup you know is virtually fail-proof, but the second, where there is the risk of both devices failing, is a lot simpler than clipping knots on tougher routes.

For solo leading, I have used a Rock Exotica Soloist but just got a Silent Partner, which I haven't used yet except for learning proper setup in the house. The first is much cheaper but requires a chest harness and won't catch you if you fall upside-down. With either system, you need backup knots in the free end of the rope, and it's easier to pretie them.

[Simkin]

The normal way to top-rope-solo is weighting the rope at the bottom so slack feeds better

You can clearly see in the video that the rope was pinched with a stone.

and then using two devices so as to have a backup incase of failure.

You sure that two is enough? May be three or four?

[Brian C]

Haha. Sorry to hurt your feelings as I didn't realize this was your video, but that's why I said "arguably". I really could care less if you do that. Don't post this on MP if that bothered you, as it would probably turn into 10 pages of people fighting with each other and all telling you "your gunna die"...

I also apologize for not reading your actual question carefully enough and giving unwanted on advise on the wrong topic. Lead solo climbing I used to use a soloists device, but it always made me nervous that it didn't catch inverted falls. I've seen people lead harder than I do using a clove hitch and two (not one?? gasp!) locking carabiners, but it seems to be a hassle to manage unless you don't care climbing with lots of slack most of the time. Works well for aid climbing for me though. For both hitch and soloist, make sure to carry an extra ascending tool (traxion, prussik, etc.) to un-weight it in case you can't pull the move and hang from the device. Also, carry a knife if you use the clove hitch as it can lock so tightly in a fall you have to cut it off. All that said, the Silent Partner seems to be the way to go if you're really into solo lead climbing.

Photo stolen from my buddy Greg Miller. Note the obviously unnecessary extra carabiner.

10245513_10202936530629801_8283577363226805940_n.jpg (93.93 KiB) Viewed 21843 times

[Simkin]

To solo lead I use a clove hitch on a double locker.

To solo toprope I use a grigri 1

Why you don't use grigri for lead?

[Brian C]

Many people use a grigri to solo lead but usually will modify it. Has it's ups and down, I've never used it for anything other than solo aid (unmodified with backup knots) so can't speak to free leading though.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/solo-g ... /106717107

If you're really into this you should do a forum search on mountainproject and supertopo as it has been discussed into the ground and will have plenty of good info.

[beean]

Many people use a grigri to solo lead but usually will modify it. Has it's ups and down

Heh. You so punny

[Mountain Goat]

The normal way to top-rope-solo is weighting the rope at the bottom so slack feeds better

You can clearly see in the video that the rope was pinched with a stone.

and then using two devices so as to have a backup incase of failure.

You sure that two is enough? May be three or four?

Take good advice and don't get so butthurt.

You also should have two backup knots clipped into separate carabiners. I watched your video. When you stopped to tie a backup, you seemed to be on pretty safe ground, but in between unclipping one knot and clipping the new one, you were safeguarding your life to a single device. You never know what might happen. I've heard stories of guys getting stung by a bee and jumping without thinking and next thing, hamburger patty at the base of the crag. And any gear can fail.

For your solo lead, just bite the bullet and get a Silent Partner. Don't use a Grigri. Many do, but there are serious problems with feeding and with the chance of it coming open. And don't use a clove hitch unless you crawl up a route.

[Simkin]

Take good advice and don't get so butthurt.

You also should have two backup knots clipped into separate carabiners. I watched your video. When you stopped to tie a backup, you seemed to be on pretty safe ground, but in between unclipping one knot and clipping the new one, you were safeguarding your life to a single device..

But I did took a good advice

http://www.supertopo.com/a/How-to-Set-U ... 1526n.html

I reject useless ones coming from apparent theoreticians. You just need to remove all the slack from the traxon before unclipping the knot. You can hang on a single traxon alright. The knot is for the case when you develop a big slack and fall. In such case the traxon can tear the rope with its teeth.

[Brian C]

Glad you feel like advice from people who actually do what you asked for should be ignored and that reading an article by Chris M makes you an expert. Probably shouldn't post a how-to video, ask a question and then thrash on everybody when the answers aren't what you wanted to hear. Somebody needs to dig out that butthurt complaint form.

Like my father always said, opinions are like asses, everybody has them and they all stink. Since you don't care what we have to say, here's some more light reading from more apparent theoreticians ...

Steph Davis top-rope soloing system how-to. Uses 2 mini-traxions and chest harness.
http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/rope-solo-system/

From Petzl (website takes a bit of navigation, scroll down and click "self-belay"). Mentions several times that single device use is a bad idea and that any one device can fail. Also has a summary description detailing the disadvantages of the system you use in your video.
http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Multi-pit ... K_RcYclsmf

Traxion device can fail to lock even when there is not any slack. Thread on supertopo...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum ... st-tragedy

Like I said earlier all of this (top rope and leading) has been discussed to death on MP. Search the forum there for LOTS of info. Here's a current thread right now...
http://mountainproject.com/v/rope-soloi ... /109918715


Moral of the story in my opinion is that a single device can fail, and when you're stopping to untie/retie from a secondary strand you are essentially off belay but feel free to do whatever feels safe to you as you're the only person who it would effect.

[Bob Sihler]

Somebody needs to dig out that butthurt complaint form.

Here you go:

[Simkin]

Glad you feel like advice from people who actually do what you asked for should be ignored and that reading an article by Chris M makes you an expert. Probably shouldn't post a how-to video, ask a question and then thrash on everybody when the answers aren't what you wanted to hear. Somebody needs to dig out that butthurt complaint form.

You might consider filling out this form for your theoretical advices not taken seriously.

Why don't you do some climbing instead? Well, I guess it's dangerous.