Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby Simkin » Tue Aug 23, 2016 1:32 am

I recently climbed Mount Emerson waterfall route (5.4) and descended a class 3 route towards Loch Leven. So I did not need a rope.

I wonder are there any more peaks like that. Preferably such that can be done in a day hike from car camping, like aforementioned Emerson.
User Avatar
Simkin

 
Posts: 144
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:14 pm
Location: California, United States
Thanked: 18 times in 15 posts

Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby Bob Burd » Tue Aug 23, 2016 5:52 am

Some great class 3-5 scrambles that can be day hiked:
Tenya Peak, North Buttress
LeConte, Waterfall route
Clarence King (5.4 summit block)
Cathedral SE Buttress (5.6)
Echo Peaks
Kearsarge Pinnacles, Traverse
Mt. Starr King, SE Face
Eichorn Pinnacle
Norman Clyde NE Face
Clyde Minaret Rock Route
Treasure Peak, Little Lakes Valley (East Ridge)
Two Eagle, East Ridge
Rosy Finch Peak, North Ridge
Mt. Hoffmann, NE Ridge
Laurel Mtn, NE Gully
Mt. Mendel, NE Ridge
Ken Minaret
Riegelhuth Minaret
Kehrlein Minaret
Leonard Minaret
Waller Minaret
Eichorn Minaret
Michael Minaret
Hurd Peak, South Ridge
Mt. Clark, NW Ridge
Mt. Gardiner
Ed Lane Peak, North RIdge
Mt. Robinson
Independence Peak, North RIdge
Mt. Johnson, Traverse from Trapezoid & North Ridge
Bear Creek Spire, NE Ridge
Mt. Powell, Traverse from Point Wesley
Deerhorn, NE Ridge
Cockscomb, Tuolumne
Cockscomb, Silver Divide
Mt. Warlow, Traverse from Mt. Fiske
Mt. Huxley, Traverse from Mt. Warlow
South Basin Peak, Traverse from Basin Mtn
User Avatar
Bob Burd
Forum Moderator
 
Posts: 4230
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2001 10:42 pm
Location: San Jose, California, United States
Thanked: 539 times in 282 posts

The following user would like to thank Bob Burd for this post
colinr, hightinerary, MarkDidier, Simkin

Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby Alpinist » Tue Aug 23, 2016 5:47 pm

Ratings are one thing. Exposure is something entirely different. While some of the routes above are not technically difficult, they are very exposed. A fall from the summit block of Cathedral, for example, would kill you. Same for some of the other peaks. Be sure to do your research before you venture out.
User Avatar
Alpinist

 
Posts: 6374
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2003 7:21 pm
Location: Kildeer, Illinois, United States
Thanked: 826 times in 551 posts

Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby Simkin » Tue Aug 23, 2016 9:49 pm

Bob Burd wrote:Some great class 3-5 scrambles that can be day hiked:
Tenya Peak, North Buttress
LeConte, Waterfall route
Clarence King (5.4 summit block)
Cathedral SE Buttress (5.6)
Echo Peaks
Kearsarge Pinnacles, Traverse
Mt. Starr King, SE Face
Eichorn Pinnacle
Norman Clyde NE Face
Clyde Minaret Rock Route
Treasure Peak, Little Lakes Valley (East Ridge)
Two Eagle, East Ridge
Rosy Finch Peak, North Ridge
Mt. Hoffmann, NE Ridge
Laurel Mtn, NE Gully
Mt. Mendel, NE Ridge
Ken Minaret
Riegelhuth Minaret
Kehrlein Minaret
Leonard Minaret
Waller Minaret
Eichorn Minaret
Michael Minaret
Hurd Peak, South Ridge
Mt. Clark, NW Ridge
Mt. Gardiner
Ed Lane Peak, North RIdge
Mt. Robinson
Independence Peak, North RIdge
Mt. Johnson, Traverse from Trapezoid & North Ridge
Bear Creek Spire, NE Ridge
Mt. Powell, Traverse from Point Wesley
Deerhorn, NE Ridge
Cockscomb, Tuolumne
Cockscomb, Silver Divide
Mt. Warlow, Traverse from Mt. Fiske
Mt. Huxley, Traverse from Mt. Warlow
South Basin Peak, Traverse from Basin Mtn

This is too good to be true.

I climbed Clyde Minaret, but camped at Minaret Lakes. I can't do such thing as a day hike.

According to this site the easiest route for Eichorn Pinnacle is 5.4. One can't descend without a rope. Same for Michael Minaret.

In contrast, Emerson peak has a class 3 descent route and is as close to North Lake drive in campground as the Minarets are to Minaret lakes.
User Avatar
Simkin

 
Posts: 144
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:14 pm
Location: California, United States
Thanked: 18 times in 15 posts

Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby Bob Burd » Tue Aug 23, 2016 11:47 pm

Simkin wrote:According to this site the easiest route for Eichorn Pinnacle is 5.4. One can't descend without a rope.


Plenty of folks go up and down without a rope. I picked that one because the 5.4 rating matched your Emerson one. The crux on Eichorn has a bolt with a hanger conveniently located. You could bring a carabiner with a sling attached if you wanted the extra safety, hardly weighs anything. If you can solo 5.4 you can do Eichorn without a rope.
Image

Same for Michael Minaret.


Michael Minaret is rated class 4 via Stars Chute, Eichorn Chute, and from The Portal. Should be easier than 5.4, no?
Image

In contrast, Emerson peak has a class 3 descent route and is as close to North Lake drive in campground as the Minarets are to Minaret lakes.


Ok, you want easier day hikes, I kinda missed that. Let's revise the list:
*Tenya Peak, North Buttress
*Cathedral SE Buttress (5.6)
Echo Peaks
Eichorn Pinnacle
*Rosy Finch Peak, North Ridge
*Mt. Hoffmann, NE Ridge
*Laurel Mtn, NE Gully
*Hurd Peak, South Ridge
*Independence Peak, North RIdge
Cockscomb, Tuolumne
We could add a few more though:
*Dozier Dome, Tuolumne
*Peak 9,205ft, Tuolumne
Tresidder Peak, Tuolumne
*Thor Peak, Stemwinder
*Lower Brother (Yosemite Valley), Michael's Ledge
Gunsight (YV)
*El Cap Gully (YV)
*Indian Canyon (YV)
All of these are class 3 to low class 5 with short approaches. With the exception of Eichorn Pinnacle, all have a descent at class 4 or less, most (marked by a "*") much less.
Probably lots more, too...
User Avatar
Bob Burd
Forum Moderator
 
Posts: 4230
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2001 10:42 pm
Location: San Jose, California, United States
Thanked: 539 times in 282 posts

The following user would like to thank Bob Burd for this post
colinr, Daria

Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby Simkin » Wed Aug 24, 2016 8:45 pm

Bob Burd wrote:Image

Looks like class 4.

Bob Burd wrote:Michael Minaret is rated class 4 via Stars Chute, Eichorn Chute, and from The Portal. Should be easier than 5.4, no?

This website lists only the 5.4 Amphitheater route, so it was not obvious.

But this indeed looks like like a nice mountain with a skeleton on a ledge. Is it class 4 from the point where the chutes meet?
User Avatar
Simkin

 
Posts: 144
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:14 pm
Location: California, United States
Thanked: 18 times in 15 posts

Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby Simkin » Sat Aug 27, 2016 4:27 am

jesu, joy of man's desiring wrote:I've climbed dozens of unroped pitches 5.7 to 5.10, so I feel qualified to make an assessment.

Can I see a video?

jesu, joy of man's desiring wrote:Have you ever seen someone with those kinds of injuries? I have!

Still afraid?
User Avatar
Simkin

 
Posts: 144
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:14 pm
Location: California, United States
Thanked: 18 times in 15 posts

Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby Simkin » Mon Aug 29, 2016 3:58 am

jesu, joy of man's desiring wrote:^^^
...But we will treat you with gentle "Special Ed" kid gloves, cause you're an Eastern Euro

What school did you attend and what was the GPA?
User Avatar
Simkin

 
Posts: 144
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:14 pm
Location: California, United States
Thanked: 18 times in 15 posts

Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby MoapaPk » Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:50 pm

Go up the NE ridge of Bear Creak Spire and come down Ulrich's route, preferably with 60m rope. If in that area, go up the N face of Rosy Finch and down the South.
User Avatar
MoapaPk

 
Posts: 7762
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 7:42 pm
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
Thanked: 784 times in 516 posts

The following user would like to thank MoapaPk for this post
Simkin

Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby Simkin » Tue Aug 30, 2016 7:45 pm

MoapaPk wrote:Go up the NE ridge of Bear Creak Spire and come down Ulrich's route, preferably with 60m rope.

Sounds interesting. This site, however, rates it 5.2-5.6. What is the real rating?

Bob Burd wrote:*Tenya Peak, North Buttress

Logistically this is great. But it's a slick dome. Probably about 45% slope. Would have been class 2 or 3 if it was not slick.

I hiked Lembert dome from the parking lot. At some point I started slipping. To make it I ran uphill from ledge to ledge. Probably one could do Tenaya the same way. Or use rubber elbow and knee pads of the sort the cavers are using. This way one could just crawl it.

Bob Burd wrote:*Independence Peak, North RIdge

This one I did, but it is class 4.
User Avatar
Simkin

 
Posts: 144
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:14 pm
Location: California, United States
Thanked: 18 times in 15 posts

Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby MoapaPk » Wed Aug 31, 2016 4:36 pm

Simkin wrote:
MoapaPk wrote:Go up the NE ridge of Bear Creak Spire and come down Ulrich's route, preferably with 60m rope.

Sounds interesting. This site, however, rates it 5.2-5.6. What is the real rating?



I'm guessing the 5.6 is for the summit block; the register is actually below the summit block. I've seen the block rated 5.6, but it is much easier-- it just has horrible exposure. I climbed it unbelayed, and looped a rope around (it's very small) so I could handline down the north side. If you have two people, throw a rope over the summit block to the SE side, and belay each other-- it's not a great position, but it will stop a mild fall.
User Avatar
MoapaPk

 
Posts: 7762
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 7:42 pm
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
Thanked: 784 times in 516 posts

Re: A low 5 peak with a class 3/4 descent in Sierras?

Postby mrchad9 » Wed Aug 31, 2016 11:13 pm

Bear Creek Spire summit block is class 4!
User Avatar
mrchad9

 
Posts: 4437
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:01 am
Location: San Ramon, California, United States
Thanked: 1279 times in 874 posts

Next

Return to California

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.