Rainier Kautz Route in June vs July - Ice Climbing?

[NHWare]

Hey everyone,

After climbing Rainier via the DC route this August, I am now signed up for a 10 day course with AAI in mid-June that will culminate in heading to the top of Rainier for the Kautz. I've read varying trip reports for June conditions and watched many youtube videos, and I'm concerned that the route will be too much of a walk up in June, compared to the more technical step-up from the DC route that I am looking for. Will there be any ice climbing on the Kautz in mid-June? Alternatively, i may be able to change my reservation to an opening in late July/early August... would the route likely be more technical then?

Without a doubt even a walk-up on the Kautz would be a great and challenging experience, but its just not what I really want right now after having already done the DC. The spicier the better

Alpine Ascents program director did tell me originally that it is a safer bet to go early, as sometimes if the route is too melted out they wont let (novice) clients climb it due to the risk. However, they changed the itinerary of the preceding 6 day seminar to include a day of formal ice climbing instruction, and Im thinking they would allow more technical ascents. I would confirm this of course....

Thank you for any insight you can give!

[ExcitableBoy]

The Kautz generally gets more technical as the season progresses. When I did it over Memorial Day weekend we walked straight up and straight down it with one ice axe. Later in season, several ice pitches form that often requires two tools and rappels to descend. The glaciers have changed considerably over the years and routes can vary dramatically from year to year. It is hard to say if it will be 'spicy' enough for you in mid June or even possible in late July this far out.

If you are interested in doing a more technical climb, you may want to consider a different mountain entirely. North Ridge and Coleman Headwall on Mt Baker are reliably technical May through July. Another good one is North Face of Shuksan, it also has as similar season.

Also, don't think Alpine Ascents are your only choice. Mountain Madness, American Alpine Institute, and Pro Ski and Guiding offer a variety of course and trip packages. Pro Ski and Guide in particular can often arrange a custom trip for you. If you are going with American Alpine Institute call and speak with Jason Martin. He can set you up with their best option. Hard to go wrong with any of those outfits, all are highly respected.

[NHWare]

The Kautz generally gets more technical as the season progresses. When I did it over Memorial Day weekend we walked straight up and straight down it with one ice axe. Later in season, several ice pitches form that often requires two tools and rappels to descend. The glaciers have changed considerably over the years and routes can vary dramatically from year to year. It is hard to say if it will be 'spicy' enough for you in mid June or even possible in late July this far out.

If you are interested in doing a more technical climb, you may want to consider a different mountain entirely. North Ridge and Coleman Headwall on Mt Baker are reliably technical May through July. Another good one is North Face of Shuksan, it also has as similar season.

Also, don't think Alpine Ascents are your only choice. Mountain Madness, American Alpine Institute, and Pro Ski and Guiding offer a variety of course and trip packages. Pro Ski and Guide in particular can often arrange a custom trip for you. If you are going with American Alpine Institute call and speak with Jason Martin. He can set you up with their best option. Hard to go wrong with any of those outfits, all are highly respected.

Thanks for the reply. I think I will ask Alpine Ascents about potentially changing to the later date.. I have already put down my deposit with them for this trip. They were a great outfit on my DC climb.

The ice climbing day of the preceding 6-day course takes place on the lower Coleman Glacier. Not sure if that is the same as the Coleman Headwall that you suggest. So at least I will get that in, regardless of the condition of the Kautz.

If it isnt technical enough for me, itll just give me a reason to come back and do it again unguided in the late season, with an experienced group kind enough to take on a less experienced guy like me

[ExcitableBoy]

Thanks for the reply. I think I will ask Alpine Ascents about potentially changing to the later date.. I have already put down my deposit with them for this trip. They were a great outfit on my DC climb.

The ice climbing day of the preceding 6-day course takes place on the lower Coleman Glacier. Not sure if that is the same as the Coleman Headwall that you suggest. So at least I will get that in, regardless of the condition of the Kautz.

If it isnt technical enough for me, itll just give me a reason to come back and do it again unguided in the late season, with an experienced group kind enough to take on a less experienced guy like me

You bet. Are you dealing with Gordon Janow at Alpine Ascents? He is a good guy and will give you solid advice. The Coleman Glacier is the glacier below the Coleman Headwall of Mt Baker, so same mountain, but the ice climbing portion is typically conducted on the 'seracs' or open crevasses on the very terminus (snout/low point) of the glacier. The Coleman Headwall is a steep ice headwall (up to vertical in places) 2,500 tall. When this is guided, typically over 20 pitches of ice are climbed. Coincidentally, the first time I met Gordon I had just summited the Coleman Headwall and he had just guided the North Ridge.

[NHWare]

Thanks for the reply. I think I will ask Alpine Ascents about potentially changing to the later date.. I have already put down my deposit with them for this trip. They were a great outfit on my DC climb.

The ice climbing day of the preceding 6-day course takes place on the lower Coleman Glacier. Not sure if that is the same as the Coleman Headwall that you suggest. So at least I will get that in, regardless of the condition of the Kautz.

If it isnt technical enough for me, itll just give me a reason to come back and do it again unguided in the late season, with an experienced group kind enough to take on a less experienced guy like me

You bet. Are you dealing with Gordon Janow at Alpine Ascents? He is a good guy and will give you solid advice. The Coleman Glacier is the glacier below the Coleman Headwall of Mt Baker, so same mountain, but the ice climbing portion is typically conducted on the 'seracs' or open crevasses on the very terminus (snout/low point) of the glacier. The Coleman Headwall is a steep ice headwall (up to vertical in places) 2,500 tall. When this is guided, typically over 20 pitches of ice are climbed. Coincidentally, the first time I met Gordon I had just summited the Coleman Headwall and he had just guided the North Ridge.

I see, sounds like we will be headed to the seracs/crevasses. Thanks for the info! Yes, Gordon has helped me out a lot and he is the one who suggested going for the late may or mid june timeframe. That was before the inclusion of a full day of ice climbing instruction into the course however. I'll pester him about it once more.

Sounds like you have a great deal of experience in the Cascades! Would be great to live out there and have all of that great climbing adventure within a few hours drive.

[buckie06]

I did the Kautz route end of June 2016. The first pitch was a disappointingly easy snow walk up. Second and third pitches were gritty ice.

[clmbr]

I agree with ExcitableBoy. To understand his point more compare these to two videos, both from July attempts six years apart but still in completely different conditions:

Mt Rainier via Kautz Glacier Two Solo Attempts - July 9-15, 2010
https://www.facebook.com/Mountaineering ... 398173324/

Trapped Atop of Mt Rainier - July 14-19, 2016
https://www.facebook.com/Mountaineering ... 959836467/

And check out these conditions around end of June 10+ years ago. The paragraph "Place" shortly describes what to expect (based on my experience over various attempts between Jun and August):

Solo Climber Survives Avalanche on Mt Rainier
http://www.summitpost.org/solo-climber- ... ier/965916

So there is no guarantee what kind of route and weather conditions would be at the particular time. Generally, however, the earlier the snowier with higher avalanche hazard and the later the icier with higher rock fall hazard.

I’ve met some people on this route who wanted to climb it for similar reasons as you. It did not go well. Fortunately for you, you are going with professional guides. So while there relax (but not too much) and look around; otherwise, you will miss the beauty of this route and its surroundings. In the meantime try to do some top rope ice climbing because one time deal may not give you enough confidence.