Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

What are the best Approach shoe?

Post climbing gear-related questions, offer advice. For classifieds, please use that forum.
 

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby MoapaPk » Sat May 28, 2011 10:25 pm

bearbreeder wrote:i generally use my inov 330 terrocs now ... the rubber is extremely grippy ... i havent followed more than a 5.9 or led more than a 5.7 in them yet though ...



The inov Roclite 295 advertizes "sticky rubber" outsoles. Do you have a feeling if this rubber compound matches well against 5.10 stealth rubber? Why do the lightest shoes seem to be the only ones advertized with sticky rubber (the heavier, beefier versions have "endurance rubber" (?))?

http://www.irunfar.com/2011/01/inov-8-r ... eview.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NP ... 4SV91R11Z8
User Avatar
MoapaPk

 
Posts: 7668
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 7:42 pm
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
Thanked: 761 times in 494 posts

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby MoapaPk » Sun May 29, 2011 6:42 am

...and how about the Inov-8 Griproc 325?
User Avatar
MoapaPk

 
Posts: 7668
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 7:42 pm
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
Thanked: 761 times in 494 posts

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby MoapaPk » Sun May 29, 2011 6:43 am

...and the new vasque scree, looks much like the old catalyst...
User Avatar
MoapaPk

 
Posts: 7668
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 7:42 pm
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
Thanked: 761 times in 494 posts

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby bearbreeder » Sun May 29, 2011 7:24 am

MoapaPk wrote:The inov Roclite 295 advertizes "sticky rubber" outsoles. Do you have a feeling if this rubber compound matches well against 5.10 stealth rubber? Why do the lightest shoes seem to be the only ones advertized with sticky rubber (the heavier, beefier versions have "endurance rubber" (?))?

http://www.irunfar.com/2011/01/inov-8-r ... eview.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NP ... 4SV91R11Z8


cant tell you about the roclites ... but my terrocs rubber is softer than the steath rubber ... the tennies are definitely better climbing shoes for anything mid 5th class or above ... but generally id put on rock shoes for that anyways ... its also the function of the tread, the flatter tread of the tennies make them better climbers

for actual approaches and not climbs .. the inov terrocs do just fine for me, being more useful on the hike in and the scramble up
bearbreeder

 
Posts: 69
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 4:20 am
Thanked: 10 times in 8 posts

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby Autoxfil » Sun May 29, 2011 1:19 pm

Daria wrote:It may come not as a surprise to people, but all those fancy approach shoes special materials and advanced technology is a marketing ploy to get your $$$$$. It is not about what shoe you wear, its all about your technique and skill. You can get regular good quality running shoes to do what you want them to do if you know what you're doing.


That's a rediculous statement. You can climb 5.10 in double plastics if you know what you're doing, but that doesn't make it sane.

Approach shoes fill a niche, which many climbers appreciate. But there seems to be this idea that just because you're approaching a climb, you need an approach shoe. That's luridcrous. In many cases the approach is one-dimensional, and you probably already own suitable footwear.

If you're walking along the carriage trail at the Gunks, Old Navy flip-flops are probably the best way to go.

If you're hiking 20 miles of trails, trail runners or light hikers would be the tickets.

If you're covering miles of snowfields and talus slopes, maybe you should bring your mountaineering boots, eh? The Trango S climbs pretty hard as an approach shoe.

For most cragging I do, there's a moderate walk-off, and I climb with shoes for the descent. I bring the lightest shoes I own, right now NB Minimus trail runners - they don't down-climb like Guide Tennies, but they are half the weight hanging on my harness on the way up. Some places (Gunks) I just down-climb barefoot. Even lighter.

Where approach shoes come in is when the approach (and/or descent) is some of everything, but largely 3rd and 4th class rock. If there's no 4th or easy 5th, then approach shoes make little sense, since for the most part they are just light hikers with sticky rubber.

Also, Guide Tennies and the Ganda are on the extreme climbing performance end of the spectrum. You can easily climb mid-5th class in them, so they work best for things like aid climbing where you want to come out of the aiders and pull some free moves, approaches with lots of 4th class or easy 5th class, or entire mountaineering days where the whole climb is easy enough that you can ditch the rock shoes altogether.

The Camp 4 and similar shoes offer real tread, so you can do serious hiking in them. Why anyone would look at the Guide Tennie's sole and think "boy, let's take this on a snowfield!", I have no idea. If you need sticky rubber AND a comfy hiker that can handle mud and snow and such, they probably need to look like a hiking sole.
User Avatar
Autoxfil

 
Posts: 558
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:40 pm
Location: NEPA and Upper Jay, United States
Thanked: 36 times in 29 posts

The following user would like to thank Autoxfil for this post
Kiefer

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby MoapaPk » Sun May 29, 2011 4:06 pm

Autoxfil wrote:That's a rediculous statement.


it's a rediculous shoe!
Image
:)
User Avatar
MoapaPk

 
Posts: 7668
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 7:42 pm
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
Thanked: 761 times in 494 posts

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby Kiefer » Sun May 29, 2011 4:29 pm

MoapaPk wrote:
Autoxfil wrote:That's a rediculous statement.


it's a rediculous shoe!
Image
:)


Gonna throw my vote in for these Exum Guide's as well. I was thinkin of dropping some cash on another pair of boots but than I saw
these babies and thought they would fit the bill at half the price. So far, great trail runners and scramblers. Really looking forward to getting these on
some talus on the higher crags and some 4th class material. Though with our snowpack, that might be a while.
Great approach shoe so far!
User Avatar
Kiefer

 
Posts: 538
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2006 1:30 pm
Location: Estes Park, Colorado, United States
Thanked: 116 times in 65 posts

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby MoapaPk » Mon May 30, 2011 2:56 am

Daria wrote:SI have used my asics gt 2160's for years and have worn out many pairs and can't seem to find a better replacement.


I just noticed that some asics are made with sticky rubber outsoles -- like Gel Trabuco-- is that what the gt stands for?

You've made me think more about what I want; more trail-running shoes are being made with sticky rubber these days
User Avatar
MoapaPk

 
Posts: 7668
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 7:42 pm
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
Thanked: 761 times in 494 posts

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby The Chief » Mon May 30, 2011 6:30 am

Jugged and Climbed over 2000' the last two days in em.

Simply put, Awesome, Solid and Perfect!
Image
The Chief

 
Thanked: time in post

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby 96avs01 » Mon May 30, 2011 9:46 am

MoapaPk wrote:...and the new vasque scree...


Just picked up a pair, I think they will make a nice complement to my Scarpa Zen. Only wished the lacing extended closer to the toes.
User Avatar
96avs01

 
Posts: 1443
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 6:31 pm
Location: Woodland, California, United States
Thanked: 42 times in 32 posts

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby chugach mtn boy » Mon May 30, 2011 9:40 pm

96avs01 wrote:
MoapaPk wrote:...and the new vasque scree...


Just picked up a pair, I think they will make a nice complement to my Scarpa Zen. Only wished the lacing extended closer to the toes.


I'm liking mine too after a couple of weeks. The lugging on the sole is a little more aggressive than I think is ideal (it can be a mud magnet), but that will wear down in time.
User Avatar
chugach mtn boy

 
Posts: 895
Joined: Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:54 pm
Location: Anchorage, Alaska, United States
Thanked: 181 times in 109 posts

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby jthomas » Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:26 pm

The Chief wrote:Jugged and Climbed over 2000' the last two days in em.

Simply put, Awesome, Solid and Perfect!
Image



Chief, which shoe is it?
jthomas

 
Posts: 128
Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2009 7:08 pm
Location: atlanta, Georgia
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby MoapaPk » Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:43 pm

That's the Camp 4.
User Avatar
MoapaPk

 
Posts: 7668
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 7:42 pm
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada, United States
Thanked: 761 times in 494 posts

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby dskoon » Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:06 pm

MoapaPk wrote:That's the Camp 4.


I think that's the one I'd like to have. . .
User Avatar
dskoon

 
Posts: 3116
Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2008 2:06 am
Location: portland, Oregon
Thanked: 136 times in 104 posts

Re: What are the best Approach shoe?

Postby Daria » Sat Jun 04, 2011 12:27 am

Autoxfil wrote:
Daria wrote:It may come not as a surprise to people, but all those fancy approach shoes special materials and advanced technology is a marketing ploy to get your $$$$$. It is not about what shoe you wear, its all about your technique and skill. You can get regular good quality running shoes to do what you want them to do if you know what you're doing.


That's a rediculous statement. You can climb 5.10 in double plastics if you know what you're doing, but that doesn't make it sane.



Stegosaurus wrote: you really can't approach any wilderness climb safely and comfortably across talus and scree wearing a set of super-light running shoes - there's simply not enough reinforcement in the sole and rand.


Wrong. Any one of you suckers want to bet $500 that I can use these to dayhike Clarence King and Mt. Williamson??:

Image

Image

Fresh from thrashing around for 12 hours in Beveridge Canyon:

Image

Image

I'm sorta sick of all the distinctions and selections: approach shoes, running shoes, climbing shoes, hiking shoes, trail runners.....wtf??? Seriously, its headache inducing.

The camp four a tiny bit too bulky for my liking and its hard to find a size 11 for sale. The toe box is too boxy. Why can't someone just make the perfect shoe?
I'm the top troll.
User Avatar
Daria

 
Posts: 423
Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2008 12:33 am
Location: Eastern Sierra, California, United States
Thanked: 226 times in 157 posts

PreviousNext

Return to Gear

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.