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What's your next climb? And why?

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Postby ShortTimer » Tue Aug 10, 2010 5:32 pm

At 59 I am pretty damn sure that I am the oldest climber ever on the B&Y.

Andrew was incredibly impressive. He floated all of the pitches and did the second one in 25 minutes where it usually takes people at least 45. It sure is great having that strong of a partner! The only BAD moment came when he put me on belay on the 4th pitch and asked me to please 'Don't fall'. 3 crappy tcu's is not my idea of a belay.
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Postby fatdad » Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:33 pm

ShortTimer wrote:At 59 I am pretty damn sure that I am the oldest climber ever on the B&Y.


Nice! Congrats on that one. Not surprised that it's harder than expected either. You figure there has to be a reason (apart from the lack of pro) why it's seen relatively few ascents. BITD, when hitchhiking in the Meadows, Bachar stopped and gave me a ride a couple of times and he always claimed it was only .10d.
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Postby ShortTimer » Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:42 pm

fatdad wrote:
ShortTimer wrote:At 59 I am pretty damn sure that I am the oldest climber ever on the B&Y.


Nice! Congrats on that one. Not surprised that it's harder than expected either. You figure there has to be a reason (apart from the lack of pro) why it's seen relatively few ascents. BITD, when hitchhiking in the Meadows, Bachar stopped and gave me a ride a couple of times and he always claimed it was only .10d.


My partner thought that the first pitch (rated 11c) was as hard as Skeletor on Hammer Dome and it is considered a hard 11d. I thought 11c was a good rating. The second pitch probably is 10d, almost every move. The 3rd, 4th and 5th pitches were also quite sustained and at or above their ratings for most of the way.
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Postby dadndave » Sat Aug 14, 2010 10:39 pm

rpc wrote:without fail, everytime I prespray, I fail.


Amen.
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Postby The Chief » Sat Aug 14, 2010 11:32 pm

Congrats Jan!
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Postby rhyang » Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:12 am

rhyang wrote:Image

:mrgreen:

I have a pretty poor record at predicting the future, like most human beings. But I do want to get on the North Arete of this thing -

Image

And I want to finally complete this traverse -

Image

North Arete on this one is also on my list -

Image

I've been shut down twice on attempts to do this one -

Image


As of this weekend, I've managed to tick off all these goals :D Now to enjoy some serious llama action :twisted:
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Postby Andinistaloco » Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:53 pm

Rob, how was the N. arete of Matterhorn? Did you manage to stay on route?
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Postby rhyang » Tue Sep 07, 2010 7:27 pm

It was actually a lot of fun, once we got past the first couple pitches. I did manage to get off route on pitch 4 and ended up at the base of the Double Dihedral (perhaps not entirely unintentional :twisted: ) but my partner led back around on the next pitch to the left of the arete to the correct corner, and I got to lead the final pitch, which was a blast.

I posted a trip report on supertopo if you're interested in more details & pics.
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Postby Andinistaloco » Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:31 pm

rhyang wrote:It was actually a lot of fun, once we got past the first couple pitches. I did manage to get off route on pitch 4 and ended up at the base of the Double Dihedral (perhaps not entirely unintentional :twisted: ) but my partner led back around on the next pitch to the left of the arete to the correct corner, and I got to lead the final pitch, which was a blast.

I posted a trip report on supertopo if you're interested in more details & pics.


I'll check it out. We did the same damned thing, though - only decided to finish up on the DD (which was a damned cool route, if a little sustained at the end). Sounds like you had a great climb.
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Postby Tanngrisnir3 » Thu Sep 09, 2010 7:36 pm

For no logical reason that I can think of, I want to see if I can get all the way up on the Wheeler Crest by way of Scheelite Canyon, and not use any equipment.
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Postby rhyang » Sat Sep 11, 2010 4:07 pm

I was trading e-messages with Lisae about next weekend. She is thinking about getting back on lead. Yeah, go Lisa !

For those of you who are not aware, she has been recovering from a total hip replacement and breast cancer, if that wasn't enough. I hope everyone will wish her well on her way back to being a ropegun ! :D
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Postby Guyzo » Sat Sep 11, 2010 4:18 pm

Getting out with Short in 2 hours.


The Nipple Arete 5.11a ..... he is going to lead it, I know I can do all the moves, in one go, if I try hard. 8)

It's good to have goals.

Rob good going. :wink:

Lisae.... have fun. Keep climbing.

:wink:
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