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When to tie in and When not to tie in!

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Re: When to tie in and When not to tie in!

Postby The Chief » Tue Oct 19, 2010 6:07 pm

My Golden Rule which was impressed on me several decades ago...

Tie In (Clove Hitch) immediately each and every time upon reaching or placing a bomber piece of Pro while building a bomber stance. Then immediately shift your Tie In point to the Power Point.
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Re: When to tie in and When not to tie in!

Postby nartreb » Wed Oct 20, 2010 9:10 pm

Two separate questions:

1) when to tie yourself to the rope?

2) when already tied to the rope, when to tie the rope to a (partially built) anchor?

Chief answered the second question.

Borut gave some points on the first question.

Now the synthesis: Rope without Pro is not much use. In some cases [e.g. glacier walking], your partner's ability to arrest shall be considered your Pro. Taking a small child on a glacier shall be considered soloing.

In the case of a child, if the child is anchored, then they can hold you (maybe using a self-locking device). The child should probably belay you from the anchor. In case of belayer error, you want your rope to be tied to the anchor, and the child attached to the anchor separately so their body doesn't take the force of your fall. (A simple way to accomplish this is to clove hitch your rope to the anchor, near the end. The child is tied in normally, attached to the anchor via the clove hitch which also takes your weight in case of an otherwise unarrested fall.) But don't just leave the end of your rope loose. If you fall in that case, you've left the child alone (after you fell to your death) in the middle of technical ground.
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Re: When to tie in and When not to tie in!

Postby kamil » Wed Oct 20, 2010 11:17 pm

nartreb wrote:Rope without Pro is not much use.

You took this right out of my mouth. Except glacier travel and those very few cases when natural features can be used as pro (ridges etc.), I don't see no point in roping up while simul-climbing when there's no pro between partners.
With rope teams e.g on steep snow slopes it's often one down - all down...
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Re: When to tie in and When not to tie in!

Postby Mountainjeff » Thu Oct 21, 2010 1:45 am

bcknfrth wrote:This has got to be a troll.

He asked an honest question and deserves quality responses. It does not look like trolling.
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Re: When to tie in and When not to tie in!

Postby mvs » Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:02 pm

I think Borut meant "when to tie in" as in "when to use a rope." His first point is interesting, that if you don't know what lies ahead, even though the ground is quite easy at the moment, you'd better tie in (and place pro too). This is a good rule to remember...when I've forgotten it I've ended up standing at a sketchy place, trying to fumble a rope out of a pack, and wishing I'd done this at the "boring" loose ledge below. :D

The point about the child, I don't know! :p
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Re: When to tie in and When not to tie in!

Postby panamos » Fri Nov 05, 2010 3:54 am

The "when to use a rope" question is my recent concern too..I read carefully all of you.
Sorry for the funny, maybe, question. What do you mean by the use of the word "Pro"?
Lost you there *shy*
जब पर्वत बोलो पण्डितों सुनो
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Re: When to tie in and When not to tie in!

Postby JJBrunner » Fri Nov 05, 2010 9:08 am

panamos wrote:The "when to use a rope" question is my recent concern too..I read carefully all of you.
Sorry for the funny, maybe, question. What do you mean by the use of the word "Pro"?
Lost you there *shy*

They're talking about placing professionals in the rock
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Re: When to tie in and When not to tie in!

Postby outofstep80 » Fri Nov 05, 2010 4:18 pm

drtbg wrote:
panamos wrote:The "when to use a rope" question is my recent concern too..I read carefully all of you.
Sorry for the funny, maybe, question. What do you mean by the use of the word "Pro"?
Lost you there *shy*


Another fine example of the kind of climber this site attracts.


Yeah, there certainly are all types here. Not sure why that seems to irritate you. I for one am appreciative of the information I receive from the more experienced climbers and there willingness to inform me.
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