Guyzo wrote:

Misha wrote:

Guyzo wrote:Unless I am missing something?

Yep! You're missing something. I am not spilling eheh

Well... I guess we will need to go see....

Whats with the slag roots, by Boyden Cave? Slab climbs with trees to hit while falling....

Personalty, I feel that KK is one of the great starting points in the Sierra.

So you KK propsters... I have a q for you all:

In Vernons book, he talks about a 1,000 foot long, "F7" "Golden Aret" that stays about 3 feet wide for it's entire length. It's supposed to be visible from "Roads End".

Anybody done that, seen that.?

I am addicted to climbing on "Sierra Gold".... and fixes are hard to find.

spill beans, please.

huh??? which page?

The Chief wrote:

ksolem wrote:I believe it. Same thing happenned to me. Objects in Kings Canyon are larger than they appear...

Yup!

And 90% of them entail mostly Aid or the ability to climb sustained 5.11 trad.

That's the beans that Craig's not spelling.

ksolem wrote:Someone told me Kauk wanted to have a go at freeing Craig's route Cosmopolis up there on The Grand Sentinel until he did the approach once.

I believe it. Same thing happenned to me. Objects in Kings Canyon are larger than they appear...

That climb will go one day.

It will be the Astro Man of KK.

whats the gear list? something about 20ea in the in 1.5 - 1 inch range....

Misha wrote:

Guyzo wrote:I was thinking of The Grand Sentinel, that stuff you put up way way way way up that wall....
that is a really tough place to get a big wall rack up to.

That approach will always have a special place in my heart

Putanesca's Revenge!!!!

Dave Daly wrote:

Maybe there are local climbers in these areas and they don't bother with the gym..

Tom-

Not to sound condescending but....STAY AWAY FROM THE GYM SCENE!!

Locals out at Tollhouse that you may run into......Barry Chambers and Cam Donahoo. Barry does resoling and lives in Auberry and Cam lives in Shaver Springs (just above Tollhouse). Look em up! Secondly, PM or email me or NateD here on SP. We'll help steer you in the right direction. Have you got your hands on the Sequoia Kings Canyon guidebook (rare these days and out of print)??

Places close to your stomping grounds:

-Tollhouse
-Courtright Reservoir
-The Obelisk
-Hoffman Mountain
-Kerkhoff Dome
-Shuteye Ridge (shhhh...its a secret )
-Wamello Dome (or Fresno Dome)
-Kings Canyon (dear god, don't get me started on a list!)
-Sequoia Nat' Park.....with a few notable formations to check out: Moro Rock, Little Baldy, Crystal Wall, Chimney Rock, Chimney Wall, Big Baldy

Speaking of Sequoia, some of the best obscure west side formations and roots around! If you're looking for a bit of alpine climbs on the west, try this one on for size:

The Timex Route (5.9), The Watchtower (Sequoia Nat'l Park)

Thanks for this! The Timex route looks great. We did the S Face of Moro a couple months ago and I really liked it...not a soul until we topped out and were nearly blinded by the camera flashes. I will definitely get on Timex next season and I was already planning to head to the Obelisk.

-Sequoia Nat' Park.....with a few notable formations to check out: Moro Rock, Little Baldy, Crystal Wall, Chimney Rock, Chimney Wall, Big Baldy

And of course the elephant in the corner, Castle Rock Spire...

I only saw Castle Domes for the first time this past summer; i'm amazed that this stunning piece of rock only has one (published -?) route on it ('Silmarillion' IV 5.11 per Secor) - my secret aid aspirations lit up as soon as i saw it, but promptly withered as i contemplated hauling aid gear 15 miles from Road's End...Ooof! late summer project, anyone?


http://www.flickr.com/photos/sharperblu ... 0/sizes/o/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sharperblu ... 8/sizes/o/

kewl, SB

Guyzo & Mungie -

'Dee-Bees Rib (F7), The Tower of Delphina.

Check out page 183 in the SEKI guide.

Speaking of KK, Jack McBroom had started a new route on Bubbs Creek Wall, left of Crystal Bonzai, 4 year ago. If you reference the photo on page 181, it goes through the big dark roof at the first big recess. Said he got in 3 or 4 pitches and it already checked in at A3+....several placements involved stacking and nested pins. The only reason for him not returning is the approach in with several loads of aid gear. Not sure if x15x15 was involved in that one.

Kris-

"....elephant in the corner on Castle Rock Spire."

???????

'Dee-Bees Rib (F7), The Tower of Delphina.

Check out page 183 in the SEKI guide.


Dave do you know just exactly where it is located???? I have looked and hiked around some, his guide book is, as usual, wrong.

"Rob" has done a few FA's on bubbs creek wall..... The packers can get all the aid gear, beer, bbq food and camping gear to the base.

Anybody ever done: Black Satin Slips? 5.11 something with bad bolts over on a apron formed by water running down, way below, the east side of Grand Sentinel. From the car it looks like a 150 foot tall slab of rock..... then you start walking and walking and walking and walking somemore...... you get there and the thing is huge. 6 - 7 pitches and way hard, with run out bolted pitches -

Paul Hurd and David Boyd apparently did an ascent of Dee-Bees Rib according to The American Alpine Journal, Issue 71, Volume 39 printed 1975. Language in the SEKI guide seems lifted straight from there.


http://books.google.com/books?id=h32HVZ ... 22&f=false

this sounds awesome!


Gotta check the mileage and see how far in Junction Meadow is. Been too long since I been in there.

Even the long forgotten beta on the first few ascents on Balloon Dome are in that link.

cool.

Back in about 1988, I tried to get a public school teaching job in Fresno (I'm a science teacher), even going to an interview. But to no avail. I really wanted to move there as it was close to the Valley.
Ended up in Hemet because of Taquitz and well, JT.

And Dave, that route on Bubb's fell apart because my partner ran out of time. He didn't realize how many days get eaten up in all the load hauling, etc.
To my knowledge, no one has climbed any lines left of the alcove. The entire wall on that side must approach 2,000', although the top part does kick back a lot. Still, the first 1,000' is steep and laced with cracks.
But jeez. Anyone who's been up there and around knows that finding new lines is like picking wild blackberries... they are everywhere. It's not like one has to be particularly clever or do tons of research.
It will be a thousand years before the topo's for the high sierra walls look like the spiderweb laced topo of El Capitan.
Isn't that nice?

Munge..... good link. THX.

Did you notice that the "Skull" is the previous climb. I recall reading this AAJ when it was fresh. Tobin had it and he hit me up for driving directions to the then unknown "Voodo Dome" because I had climbed the "Pea Soup" in 74.... (so so long ago).... any way Tobin and Bullwinkle hussled up there and Tobin, Free climbed the sucker.... goes at about 12b. maybe the first 5.12 ever!!! Tobin just said it was hard and fun....

Man I miss that dude. RIP




Wallspec..... how ya doing? Did ya have a nice summer????

Guyzo wrote:
Anybody ever done: Black Satin Slips? 5.11 something with bad bolts over on a apron formed by water running down, way below, the east side of Grand Sentinel. From the car it looks like a 150 foot tall slab of rock..... then you start walking and walking and walking and walking somemore...... you get there and the thing is huge. 6 - 7 pitches and way hard, with run out bolted pitches -

That's Scarlet Slipstream. Black Satin Slips is at Courtright. Both are Laeger's routes though.

Yeah the bolts on that slab get flattenned by icefall, I remember when we were there I had to thread supertape through the hangers on several where there was no room for a 'biner.