Why are there no climbers in Fresno?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Mon Dec 14, 2009 5:49 pm

I stand corrected....

that one is very dicey.... the "OLD" school Herb.

I admit to cursing out herbie and his run outs before.... :cry:

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Nate D

 
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by Nate D » Mon Dec 14, 2009 7:32 pm

Dingus Milktoast wrote:Very cool to see Mike Graber's report on Balloon Dome. I spoke to him via email about these routes a couple/three years ago. Very cool to see the entries here.

DMT


I'm surprised you hadn't seen his write up before, Ding.
"During a four-day visit we climbed three new routes."
HARD CORE.

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sharperblue

 
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Bago?

by sharperblue » Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:09 pm

mungeclimber wrote:Paul Hurd and David Boyd apparently did an ascent of Dee-Bees Rib according to The American Alpine Journal, Issue 71, Volume 39 printed 1975. Language in the SEKI guide seems lifted straight from there.


http://books.google.com/books?id=h32HVZ ... 22&f=false

this sounds awesome!


Gotta check the mileage and see how far in Junction Meadow is. Been too long since I been in there.


isn't that the series of spires that make up the lower buttresses of Mount Bago right over the meadow? that's another 2 hours beyond Charlotte Dome (from the West)

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Guyzo

 
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Re: Bago?

by Guyzo » Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:03 pm

sharperblue wrote:
mungeclimber wrote:Paul Hurd and David Boyd apparently did an ascent of Dee-Bees Rib according to The American Alpine Journal, Issue 71, Volume 39 printed 1975. Language in the SEKI guide seems lifted straight from there.


http://books.google.com/books?id=h32HVZ ... 22&f=false

this sounds awesome!


Gotta check the mileage and see how far in Junction Meadow is. Been too long since I been in there.


isn't that the series of spires that make up the lower buttresses of Mount Bago right over the meadow? that's another 2 hours beyond Charlotte Dome (from the West)


So you think you know where this is?

Some people would pay a handsome price for good information. :wink: :wink: :wink:

map?

gk :wink:

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sharperblue

 
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pay away!

by sharperblue » Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:46 pm

oh, i don't think those spires are exactly hard to miss! IF i am interpreting the trip report correctly - but between Mount Bago's South wall at Junction Meadow (literally, at the junction) and Bubb's Creek Wall there are no major visible towers on the North side, so this is likely the correct formation, and one of them is very distinctly golden versus the gray of the others. there are some very high up beyond JM, but nothing on the scale described.

Here are a few shots of those towers; first two are from Junction Meadow itself, second is from the approach to Brewer's east face from much higher up from above South Lake, looking back down the drainage; as you can see, the 'towers' are semi-detached aretes attached to the lower face of Mount Bago.

Secor describes a few of these routes under Mount Bago's entry (one a FA Beckey, of course - putting us Californians to shame in our own backyard)


http://www.flickr.com/photos/sharperblu ... 0/sizes/l/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sharperblu ... 5/sizes/l/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sharperblu ... 5/sizes/l/

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sharperblue

 
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correction

by sharperblue » Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:53 pm

sorry - that should be 'East Lake' not 'South Lake'

map:

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source= ... 11494&z=14

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Tue Dec 15, 2009 12:13 am

Sharp... thank you. In your last shot.... what is way over on the right side, top... a thin winding thing.

And Fred did live in California, when he was "exploring" the south Sierra.

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Misha

 
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by Misha » Tue Dec 15, 2009 12:16 am

Oh yeah, I remember these from my Trans-Sierra trip last year. Spectacular towers for sure, especially impressive when you stand right below them. It would be a fun approach from Roads End. Not too difficult by backcountry standards, even with heavy gear

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sharperblue

 
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right side

by sharperblue » Tue Dec 15, 2009 12:32 am

shot from underneath the features on the right side (zoom lens) while heading up to Glen Pass (swing around the peak 90 degrees north east) :

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sharperblu ... 7/sizes/l/

there are no where near 1000' of route on any of those, and Boyd's description closely matches that of one of Bago's routes in Secor - sounds like they were unaware that their route was actualy part of a larger mountain - ? I therefore assume that their "North-side" route is on the north-east side (right side of the right-hand-most (distinctly golden, at least in-person) tower (tower No.3 in pic 3)

FWIW! one thing's for certain: even if all t6he above is wrong or we're talking about a different location somehow, between Bago and Ericcson Crags, you won't be disappointed in making the trek, no matter how much gear you're hauling :D

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Guyzo

 
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by Guyzo » Tue Dec 15, 2009 4:47 pm

Thanks for the info..... it's not that hard to carry gear, makes for good wild-berry picken....

but I do always envy those darn backpackers with 30 lb packs who keep running by... :wink:

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Dave Daly

 
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by Dave Daly » Tue Dec 15, 2009 7:48 pm

I wonder if anyone will bump up the ante @ Charlotte Dome. That whole section of rock right of EB and South Face looks like tough face climbing. 11's for sure.

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Nate D

 
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by Nate D » Tue Dec 15, 2009 8:59 pm

Get on it Davey! And it's a good thing there are no climbers in Fresno - otherwise all of the obscurities would be crowded and new route potential gobbled up. :wink: :D

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Dave Daly

 
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by Dave Daly » Fri Dec 18, 2009 6:22 pm

Nate D wrote:Get on it Davey! And it's a good thing there are no climbers in Fresno - otherwise all of the obscurities would be crowded and new route potential gobbled up. :wink: :D


Now Nate, if you read CAREFULLY, you'd see I was wonder if "someone" (other than myself) would take on that challenge. You must be bored. And Charlotte is NOT an obscurity.


Note to all: I'm too old to pull down 11's except on TR. There!......you have it.

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Nate D

 
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by Nate D » Sun Dec 20, 2009 7:04 am

Yep, bored and razzing ya, DD. :wink:
You know I'm primarily an armchair climber anyway...

And by "obscurities" I was referring to the other seldom travelled stuff in Kings being mentioned in this thread.

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iHartMK

 
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by iHartMK » Thu Dec 31, 2009 9:06 pm

Move to Visalia with the rest of us mountaineers :D

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