Kellen,thanks for the explanation. I'm just trying to keep up with the info. If you go way left on the ledge from the Winter Route Notch (my topo), all the way past the tree (drawn in the topo) you end up on the original (and lately less popular) Beckey/Bjornstad DSF route. That original line climbs the extreme left edge on a easy 4th and 5th class terrain. What you seem to be describing is another chimney, most likely even further left of my drawing. But that would not be the original DSF finish.The DSF crosses right after about couple pitches of this terrain and meets the Tension Traverse (the original 5.9 or tension move right) on the DSF and in my drawing. There are really four different exits on the upper buttress. 1. The Tension Traverse of DSF into an ugly 5.4 gully. 2. The Chimney Offwidth, 5.8, very smooth, even sided, somewhat unprotected lead about 80-100 feet. 3. Just ABOVE the Tension traverse arrow (in my topo) is a 100 foot long, finger crack (5.8, not drawn on my topo) IMO the best way to go. 4. Your description of yet another chimney, most likely way to the left. The original TT was done in 1970 during the FA of DSF, the chimney offwidth was done in 1996 by the Land of Little Rain group, the finger crack above the TT was done during the FWA of the DSF in 93. The (drawn) approach to the upper buttress starting with the walk on the ledge, the 4th class gully/ramp slanting right, the 5.7 face and the walk left to the upper buttress was done in the early 80s by Miguel Carmona and me while looking for a better(?) ending to the Winter Route. We finished by the original TT which by then could be done free (5.9) and the horrible chimney (with packs) above.
Last edited by asmrz
on Thu Nov 25, 2010 12:25 am, edited 2 times in total.