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Yosemite

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Yosemite

Postby dfrancom » Tue Oct 06, 2009 3:14 am

Heading to the Valley with my soon to be wife. What moderate to easy multi-or single pitch climbs can we do? I can lead about 5.8 trad. Also, any recommendatons on the best all-around climbing guide book? thanks!
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Postby SpiderSavage » Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:28 am

Manure Pile Buttress (AKA Ranger Rock) next to El Cap picnic area on the north side. After Seven and After Six are both very high quality moderate climbs that protect well.

Also it is very fun to go to the base of El Capitan right up under the Nose and put your hands on the wall and look up. Over to the left of this there are some moderate one pitch routes. Plus you can go home and say you CLimbed (on) El Capitan.
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Postby mungeclimber » Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:21 am

climb El CAP!!!

aka Pine Line 5.7 1 pitch - fun route
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Postby rhyang » Tue Oct 06, 2009 3:21 pm

Supertopo's Yosemite Valley Free Climbs is quite detailed, but not as comprehensive. The falcon guide to Yosemite Valley (aka the Reid guide) has more climbs in it, but less detail and some would say better if you are kind of burned out on the four star classics and want to go looking for an "adventure" :)
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snake dike?

Postby dfrancom » Tue Oct 06, 2009 3:58 pm

how about snake dike? how does the runout 5.4 compare to normal modern ratings? is it true 5.4 on the upper pitches. I think this would be a really fun way to summit Half Dome.
thanks for your helps guys!
Dingus Milktoast wrote:You may want to test yourself on one of the classic Yosemite 5.8 'grade' routes:

Bishop's Terrace. With a 200' rope you can do it in one pitch (take a full rack). Fingers, hands (on MY the HANDS!), a little easy wideness, steep finish, solid pro... rap anchor; need two ropes.

Good for an afternoon or evening cool down/trial. If you can send that crack comfortably you are at the Yosemite 5.8 grade level.

The other routes mentioned are good ones. Nutcracker (Suite) may get mentioned to you - a classic Royal Robbins route on Manure Pile, to the right of After 6 and After 7. Its not an expecially difficult line but its 5 pitches and the crux is the last one and if you actually fall from the crux you stand a good chance of breaking an ankle (as have many). I'm just giving you a heads up - if you DO want to do Nutcrack, do Bishop's Terrace first, see how you do.

DMT
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Postby Guyzo » Tue Oct 06, 2009 4:23 pm

Listen to Dingus.

You might go to the Five Open Books...... lots to do and a really cool place to hang.

or just go start working on "Midnight Lighting" ..... :wink:

Have tons of fun.
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Re: snake dike?

Postby dfrancom » Tue Oct 06, 2009 4:44 pm

Isn't it possible to attache purusiks to the cables for the way down? If we get an early start and climb fast with good weather? Super topo says you can bail at any point on the route with two 50 or 60 meter ropes. I plan to bring my twin 70 meter lines.

I fugure 14 miles won't be too bad compared to a one day ascent of Ganette peak 36 miles round trip (green river lakes entrance), my legs still hurt from that one. I like to suffer!

Dingus Milktoast wrote:
dfrancom wrote:how about snake dike? how does the runout 5.4 compare to normal modern ratings? is it true 5.4 on the upper pitches. I think this would be a really fun way to summit Half Dome.


Well.... its October my friend. The cables are down and we are one storm away from winter. Its a bugger of an approach and going down the cables when the poles are down is not for the timid. I'd say save this one for next year and do it when you have 14 hours of sunlight to burn.

DMT
Last edited by dfrancom on Tue Oct 06, 2009 4:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Franky » Tue Oct 06, 2009 4:45 pm

Man, Bishops Terrace is a sweet climb. Head down to pat and jacks and check out nurdle too.
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Postby rhyang » Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:26 pm

I've never climbed the Snake Hike this late in the season, but my understanding is that the HD cables are still up, and are usually taken down after Columbus Day -- Oct. 12th this year -

http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/conditions.htm

You probably want to bring gloves for the cables .. I thought it was the scariest part of the whole thing :)

The first 2 pitches are IMO the crux .. a 5.7 friction traverse (well-protected by a bolt) was what made me pause the most. The next 6 pitches after that were pretty easy & knobby fun. I have heard of people trying to tie off knobs, but we didn't bother. Obviously though you don't want to fall on these because of the runouts. There is a free supertopo guide to the route here -

http://supertopo.com/freetopos.html
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Postby JHH60 » Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:32 pm

Swan slab is a nice place to start. You can warmup at the main slab area near the oak tree and move right to climb Claude's Delight. If you lead up the first pitch of that (5.7) you can toprope the first pitch of Lena's Lieback (5.9) and Goat for It (5.10a). If you're lucky you might see the local bobcat. You can then walk over to Sunnyside Bench and do the 3-pitch Regular Route (5.4) which is fun.
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Re: snake dike?

Postby dfrancom » Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:33 pm

point well taken, I forgot to include that my fiance is a climber with long multipitch experience. The crazy attract each other I guess.

Dingus Milktoast wrote:
dfrancom wrote:I like to suffer!


It wasn't you I was thinking about brother.

You will have to take your own decisions, of course!

Cheers and good luck with your trip
DMT
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