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Your first lead fall...

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Your first lead fall...

Postby CarloMarx » Wed Jan 19, 2011 12:28 am

Not your worst one or the one you had the other day, but your first one...how was it?

I took my first one a couple of weekends ago. I think taking your first lead fall at 41 is probably a little different than taking one at like 18 or 20. Maybe I'm wrong. I'm good though...easy landing=just a sprained ankle.
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Re: Your first lead fall...

Postby rasgoat » Wed Jan 19, 2011 2:00 am

Sucks about your ankle but could always be worse.

I was just starting to lead 5.7 and I had some trouble with this move. I had put a bd cam in the area of my next hold but I was not comfortable moving onward without it in place and there was no other gear. I fell twice in a row on that cam my first and second lead falls about fifteen feet clean. It did not embolden me though, it actually made me have a little more fear but I was glad to get it over with. I eventually made the move by changing my body position.
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Re: Your first lead fall...

Postby CarloMarx » Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:35 am

TacoDelRio wrote:I don't know exactly when my first was. I think it was on the 5.5 or whatever "Trough" at Big Rock in Riverside, CA. I slipped on the grease about 6-10ft on that slab. I think I wasn't yet at the first bolt. Sketched me out for a loooong time. Took a while to get back into the groove. No injuries, just a bruised ego.


Hey, Taco dude! Yes, this was similar to my experience a couple weeks ago. I'd been leading .6 slab routes for most of last fall and decided to crank it up a notch and tried to onsite a .7. It turns out our guidebook is very old and the route was much more polished than I anticipated. I slid before I clipped the first bolt - scary as shit! Don't think I'll onsite anything harder than a .6 for awhile:)
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Re: Your first lead fall...

Postby KujoA2 » Wed Jan 19, 2011 4:39 am

5.9+ in the black hills needles. Technically a sport route, but lots of runout sections, and it was harder (or I thought it was) than the rating indicated. Wound up lowering off the route and losing a draw, but it could have been worse.
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Re: Your first lead fall...

Postby Sierra Ledge Rat » Thu Jan 20, 2011 2:17 am

CarloMarx wrote:Not your worst one or the one you had the other day, but your first one...how was it?


First one?

1975, Huntington Ravine, Mount Washington, New Hampshire.

Climbing a long rock pitch, the crack just ended. I placed a #3 wired stopper and started hooking to my right to a book. I could feel a thin crack in the book but couldn't see it. I reached around and placed a stopper for aid. I tested it, but it popped out. Since I was on hooks, I was off-balance and fell backwards.

The entire pitch zippered except for the #3 wired stopper. I came to rest upside-down only 5 feet off the ground. :shock:
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Re: Your first lead fall...

Postby granjero » Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:42 am

Can't remember first fall on bolts, but first trad whipper on the crux short thin crack of the Direct NW Face of Lembert dome. I just remember placing the green C3 and going for it, then flying through the air, semi-bouncing off the ledge and then hearing and seeing my sunglasses dance down into the trees. Doh! A good flight for sure and a really enjoyable route!
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Re: Your first lead fall...

Postby outofstep80 » Wed Jan 26, 2011 1:51 pm

My first lead fall was this past spring at RRG. First climb of the trip was Autumn on Long Wall. Took a 4-5' fall on a #2 C3 towards the top of the route. The move was a little sketchy for me but I just went for it and my feet slipped off. It was a friction move and I didn't have my feet high enough.

I had been working on getting my head straight for leading all winter by only leading when going to the gym. Didn't matter the route or grade I would not top rope. Might sound lame but it worked for me. When I got outside I did not think about falling. After the fall I just got back on the wall and finished the route. Then I moved over to rock wars and took another short fall on that one.
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Re: Your first lead fall...

Postby jmh5331 » Wed Jan 26, 2011 4:25 pm

My first lead fall was off a small crag here in PA, about 5.7. I was maybe ten feet above the ledge I was being belayed from, and I had one cam in a crack behind a bulge. I stepped up and around a small ledge system trending up and right and was aiming the place a second piece when I slipped (I guess) and swung just long enough to think "Yay, piece!"...before the bulge exploded with my piece in it and I hit the belay ledge and then the ground about fifteen feet below that. Luckily I survived with two gnarly ankle sprains from the belay ledge and a cracked helmet. All things considered it was pretty amazing because I was leading Pete's Farewell in the daks the next weekend. I'm still a little gunshy on the sharp end these days, even though I've taken small falls on pieces that have held. I use probably twice as much pro as a normal person would on any particular climb haha.
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Re: Your first lead fall...

Postby Swithich » Tue Mar 22, 2011 4:27 am

Hasn't happened yet (I keep realizing at points about 10 feet above the previous bolt how much that is going to hurt someday).

BTW, how is a 30 foot fall not a bad fall. You can easily die from a 30 foot fall. Just saying.

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Re: Your first lead fall...

Postby ExcitableBoy » Tue Mar 22, 2011 4:35 am

Diedre in Squamish. Fell onto a small TCU when I slipped on some ice. We were pushing the rock climbing season a bit in retrospect.
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Re: Your first lead fall...

Postby fatdad » Tue Mar 22, 2011 3:44 pm

Happened a long time ago but I remember it like it was yesterday (really). I was 14 or 15 and I fell on Sail Away at Joshua Tree. Luckily, the climb ate passive pro since, back in '78 or '79 when it happened, that's pretty much all there was. I wasn't hurt. It happened so quickly and it was just like everything went in slo mo and I found myself hanging from the rope 8 or 10 feet lower. Much better than those grim falls you can see coming and can't do much about.
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