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Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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donutslayerGreat cramponing  Sucess!


After a nice drive from Juarez down through DF we ended up at the base of Pico de Orizaba. We drove within a mile or so of the hut then finished hiking in. Met a mixed group of climbers from Seattle and Anchorage. Hit the summit the next morning and then headed to the beach the following day in Veracruz. Great trip
Posted Nov 14, 2012 2:58 pm

jmarkhamOrizaba  Sucess!


After acclimitization on Popo and overnight at a high hut we all made it but separated into two groups, the slower staying with a member who I felt should never have come up because of a persistant cough that had developed. He was very stubbornly wanting to summit and did, later, after some of us quickly decended due to an incoming storm. I'll never forget hearing and almost feeling my iceaxe zinging where I'd stowed it between my back and daysack. I prayed the rest of the gang up on the summit would not be hit as I almost ran down the peak. Fantastic experience.
Posted Nov 14, 2012 2:32 pm

DariaAwe-some!!!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 27, 2011


With Matthew Sharples. Absolutely memorable memories-stayed with a good friend and biology student in mexico city, then we got to stay with a local Mexican family at the base of Pico de Orizaba, (they had a vacation home there), they even drove us up pretty close to the piedre grande hut for free in their truck. As well as taking us out to the Casa Blanca, it was their treat. What a generous kind family!! It was a joy to have experienced such authentic cultural exchanges vs. the standard disengaged tourist planned routine that most climbers do.

Dayhiked from Piedre Grande hut, summit experience was enhanced by a special "summit ritual" of some local climbers I shared the summit with. We barely were able to understand each other, but we they still managed to get me involved in their ritual and we ended up laughing, celebrating, and taking pictures/videos. The summit ritual was pouring snow on top of my bare head while I kneel down on one knee with hand on ice axe. Surreal and amazing experience and great bonding time with the locals! What a special treat to have experienced this. We then descended Pico de Orizaba to the east, down the jungles and hitched a ride with some locals down the many jungle towns back to Orizaba. The rest of my trip I toured the beautiful mexican Pacific coast to scout out future kayaking trips.
Posted Sep 22, 2012 2:53 pm

Matt LemkeJamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 15, 2012

Matt Lemke

Fantastic climb on N. Americas 3rd highest! after a couple days to acclimate at the hut at 14,000 feet.
Posted Mar 21, 2012 12:51 am

cabJamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 2, 2012


One day ascent from Piedra Grande after acclimitizing on La Malinche and Iztaccihuatl. We left the hut at 1am with perfect conditions that continued all the way to the summit.

Following the trail up to the labyrinth and making our way through the labyrinth in the dark wasn't too dificult (we actually took a worse route on the way down in full daylight). The lower glacier was a little sloppy even though it was still dark out, but conditions improved the higher up we went.

The sun came up just before we made the crater rim and began a spectacular day with perfect weather and no wind. We took a few pictures at the summit and headed down for a 10-hour RT.
Posted Mar 5, 2012 3:15 pm

Date Climbed: Nov 27, 1987


Went with two single guys that wanted to party and not acclimate (Steve and Jeff). Made 16,000 ft. not prepared, another time. Had a great time though, Veracruz was awesome.
Posted Feb 26, 2012 9:18 pm

DrewBGreat memories  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2002


Much more straight forward than I imagined. The only difficult part was the altitude.
Posted Jan 17, 2012 11:55 pm

Bill562Second time is the charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 12, 2012


With Blair F from PG - Espolon de Oro up, Jamapa Glacier down
Posted Jan 15, 2012 10:07 pm

CastillejaMiniataStandard Jamapa Glacier route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 28, 2011


And then a descent into a remote east side canyon and to the tropics.
Posted Jan 14, 2012 9:51 pm

mreiter1Suceess  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2008


Standard Route
Posted Dec 11, 2011 2:01 pm

huntersleeSlug to the top  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 2, 2010


Had great weather, the only downside was a trip to a not so good Mexican Taco stand a few days before. Yikes!
Posted Oct 23, 2011 1:43 am

Date Climbed: Jan 23, 2009


Made it to 17,000 feet on the Jamapa Glacier. Ezra Danciu summited. Not sure if I was getting altitude sickness or just wiped out from little sleep camping just below the Labrynth the previous night. Lots of snow the week before our arrival as well. Senor Reyes was scheduled to pick up us at 3PM and I just didn't have the pace to get up and back in time. Met a couple cool guys from Minnesota though and WILL be back one day for redemption!
Posted Oct 8, 2011 2:12 am

jef80Jamapa Glacier   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 20, 2009


Perfect weather to climb this great mountain.
Posted Jun 13, 2011 6:11 pm

mjp20kJamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 7, 1997


Third time's the charm.
Posted Jun 6, 2011 5:57 pm

jckJamapa Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 14, 2011


Took the straight route up to top, just between Jamapa Glacier and Espolon del Oro, where the face is the steepest. Six hours to the top from Piedra Grande. Nice to be the only climbers on the mountain that day.
Perfect views from the top. The crater rim is really impressive.
Climbed with Radek (brade).
Posted Mar 23, 2011 7:32 pm

DeschampsImpressive Mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 12, 2010


This was my second 5,000er (Izta was my first). I really enjoyed it, this volcano has beautiful sights and the weather was just amazing. We started at 1am and got to the summit a couple of hours after sunrise. It was a december 12th which is a religious holiday in Mexico (Virgin Guadalupe's day) so plenty of people was at the top with almost no gear!!, I felt almost ridiculous with mine but they climbed thru the south face route which is far easier with almost no ice. We hired the services of Mr. Joaquin Canchola for accommodation in Tlachichuca and transport to Piedra Grande's Hut, he knows a lot about the mountain and he's pretty easy going if you don't mind some swearing :P
Posted Feb 3, 2011 3:51 pm

SJSea level to summit in 81 hours  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 18, 2010


Not recommended unless you enjoy the following:

1) Sleepless nights
2) Heinous gas
3) Windburn
Posted Dec 22, 2010 7:47 pm

SkydiveKenPleasant Surprise  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 18, 2010


A steady 20 mph wind from the start of the glacier to the summit. Except for some reason not the last 50 steps or so. No even the slightest breeze at the summit proper. Took some pictures had a bit to eat adjusted my gear and enjoyed the summit all to myself for 15 minuets - the warmest I had been all day. Was tempting not to nap.
Posted Dec 20, 2010 7:50 pm

tb00957Orizaba  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2010
windy and cold, otherwise pretty straight forward.
Posted Nov 28, 2010 3:37 pm

grahamOrizaba via the standard route
Date Climbed: Nov 12, 2010


Richard and I started hiking ~2am and got up thru the snowy labyrinth and glacier and reached the summit just after sunrise to witness the amazing Pico pyramide shadow cover the Tlachichuc valley below. We got back to the hut ~11am and down to Tlachichuc around 1:30pm. Great day on Pico with great company on my new high point.
Posted Nov 17, 2010 5:31 pm

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