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Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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Bill MaxwellRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: 11th October 2005  Sucess!

Bill Maxwell

Climbed the mountain with an excellent local guide (Roberto Flores Rodroguez) during a 4 day window in a business trip. We had the mountain to ourselves, but there was a lot of soft, unconsolidated snow. As a consequence we 'summited' in the Kanchenjunga sense, i.e. we reached the crater rim, but declined to do the last few yards along unconsolidated snow to the pile of metal at the 'true' summit. A great route - and I would also recommend the Limons in Tlachichuca for excellent hospitality and transport.
Posted Oct 17, 2005 10:00 am

Seth MaciejowskiRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: July 2004

Seth Maciejowski

Well, my new wife and I made it to 17,500' under bluebird skies with no one else on the mountain. AMS started bothering us so we weren't taking any chances and we went down. We had a difficult time finding a route through the glacier polished moraine since it has retreated so much in recent years. This is a great climb, a little different from your typical glacier slog with scrambling, scree and snow sections. Weather is more stable in the winter, but you can get lucky in the summer like we did and not another soul was on the mountain.
Posted Oct 14, 2005 5:06 pm

edlRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Nov. 97  Sucess!
Great route. Easy glacier climb.
Posted Sep 25, 2005 3:05 pm

Peak_BaggerRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Jan 24 2005  Sucess!


My 1st big peak. Went pretty smooth. Got a hitch with some Mexican climbers up to the hut. Took a rest day, then summited in 6hrs and were down in 4. Took a nice direct line up the galcier as the conditions were perfect.
Posted Sep 9, 2005 5:06 pm

althegreekRoute Climbed: jamapa Date Climbed: january 2004  Sucess!


nice peak. straightforward. slog up the glacier. how did all the junk get on the summit?
Posted Jul 12, 2005 7:43 pm

MariePRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Early January 2005  Sucess!


The route is streight forward in the daylight, just follow the ducks. We camped around 15,500 ft, there was almost no snow to melt. Senior Limon provided great service and prices.
Posted Jun 17, 2005 1:00 am

mountainjunkieRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier (normal route) Date Climbed: January 24, 2005  Sucess!


Spent one night in Tlachichucha, then drove to Piedra Grande hut arrive around 3:30pm. Spend the night at the hut, hiked to the glacier the next day (1/23), then back to hut. Spend half a night at hut. Summitted at about 10:30am on 1/24/05 via the standard route going up from the hut at Piedra Grande. Woke at 1:00am to cold temperatures and icy conditions, but skies were clear and the summit was visible. Started climbing at 2am. I began w/ mild AMS, but it got better (or at least not worse) as we ascended. Reached the glacier at 16,200' after about 3 hours. Climbed glacier to crater rim, then traversed the rim to the high point. Beautiful summit w/ clear skies and spectacular views. I felt pretty good on the summit. No headache and only mild nausea. Got lost on the way down so it took over 5 hours to descend.
Posted Jun 13, 2005 7:02 pm

km_donovanRoute Climbed: Ruta Directa (Jamapa Glacier) Date Climbed: November 23, 2000  Sucess!


It was a clear windless night. We left high camp on the tongue of the glacier at 4:30 and were on the summit at 9:45. We went directly up the glacier toward a notch that bisects crater rim leading to the summit.
Posted Jun 9, 2005 7:03 am

wingedfeetRoute Climbed: Jamapa Date Climbed: 83  Sucess!


Reached the top in New Year's day 83.
Posted May 20, 2005 3:23 pm

ClimberMan420Route Climbed: Jamapa glacier Date Climbed: Dec 14th 2004  Sucess!


Freakin cold, difficult finding the glacier with the headlamp I rented but very easy climb otherwise. First high altitude climb for me, first solo ascent of a descent mountain. Started at 2AM, 4:45 later on the summit 15 min before sunrise, unforgettable view. Only climber on the mountain that day except a party of two about 5 hours behind me
Posted Apr 26, 2005 10:41 pm

madclimberRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: January 8, 2005  Sucess!


The route was difficult to find in the night, just look for the "ducks". Crevasses were very small so we didn't rope up. Excellent price and hospitality with Senor Limon.
Posted Apr 19, 2005 8:24 pm

soslawRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: January 17, 2003  Sucess!


Climbed with Andre after being weathered out by high winds at 17K the previous year. Had our gear trucked to the hut but we got out at 10K and walked up to acclimatize. Spent the night in the hut and moved to high camp at the base of the glacier the next day. Some ice on the rte gaining the base of the glacier. Alpine start the next morning (the crux is always getting out of a warm sleeping bag to confront the cold reality). Climbed to the summit under clear but windy skies. Crater is stunning especially when compared to familiar Cascade volcanoes. A moment of silence in memory of Andre's uncle who always wanted to but never climbed Orizaba. Mexican people were warm, friendly and delightful
Posted Apr 18, 2005 2:48 pm

patascentRoute Climbed: Jamapa Galcier Date Climbed: February 3, 2003  Sucess!


Great day climb from Piedra Grande. Couldn't believe the pile of metal debris at the top.
Posted Apr 6, 2005 4:22 pm

AlpinistRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: March 3, 2005


Started with Bill after sunrise from high camp at 15,600'. During the preceding days, the winds seemed worse just before sunrise, and then it would die down a bit during mid day. Since all of the other teams that week were unsuccessful starting early morning, we thought we would try it later in the morning hoping that the winds would be less severe, especially since we camped so high and didn't have far to go. (Ice/rock fall danger is minimal on the Jamapa Glacier.) Unfortunately Mother Nature did not cooperate. The wind was gusting 60-70 MPH up high, enough to blow you over. We struggled through it for several hours, but progress was too slow. We turned back at 5pm and made it back to camp just after sunset. We didn't make the summit, but I did break my personal altitude record and had a great overall experence.
Posted Mar 26, 2005 11:15 am

GlennMerrillRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: March 2004  Sucess!


There was more scrambling to get the glacier than I thought there would be, but it wasn't hard. Altitude wasn't an issue because we had done Nevado de Toluca and Iztaccihuatl. We got lodging and the ride from Gerardo of Hotel Gerar. We got a nice room with a TV and he charged us less for the ride than the others would have. Also, we were inside the car rather than in the back eating dust.
Posted Feb 27, 2005 8:16 pm

joseguzman58Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: February 8th, 2005.  Sucess!


Started climbing from Piedra Grande at 0200. It was bitter cold at the start of th ice field, -12 C. And God knows what it was with the wind-chill factor. We summited at 1000. Eight solid hours, with very few, and short, breaks.The Canales de Hielo (channels of ice), what is known to some climbers as the labyrinth, were dry. Well, dry enough not to allow the use of crampons, but with enough ice to make the climb very slippery. The ice at Jamapa's was very brittle, it broke like crystal. There were very few patches of good snow. At the crater's rim, there were some isolated patches of fossil ice, gray in color and with the consistency of concrete. Just as the rest of the ground, made out of white sand and small rocks, frozen together. The three of us descended roped and belaying each other. As a surprise to our guide, was the amount of water on the waterfall coming from the glacier, roaring down the rocky crag that parallels the trail leaving from Piedra Grande. Apparently the ice line is been receding at an alarmingly rate.
Posted Feb 11, 2005 5:31 pm

AlRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: 24 Jan 05  Sucess!


A cracking day for the summit. Baltic cold on the glacier. Yep - I too was in the same group of 7 SP strangers. All good fun.
Posted Jan 28, 2005 10:38 pm

physicsRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: January 24, 2005  Sucess!


climbed with the 6 others from summitpost - Arrived at the base hut around 3:00 PM on Jan 22nd, hiked up and setup campt at ~ 16,200 feet on Jan 23rd, and left high camp at 6:15PM on Jan 24th for summit bid. At 6:45PM arrived at glacier and at 9:13PM summitted the hill. I thought my 2:27 from base of glacier to summit was pretty respectable but gobriango2's 3:56 from hut to summit "New Jersey style" will likely forever go unmatched
Posted Jan 27, 2005 3:44 pm

rickfordRoute Climbed: Normal Route (Jamapa) Date Climbed: Jan. 14


Embarked on a 3-day acclimitization trek to Piedre Grande from Tlachichuca. Spent 3 days there going on day hikes. Stashed our climbing gear (which we never used) at 16,000". Summit push took nine hours from Piedre Grande (stopped for a few hours to watch the sunrise!). Glacier conditions were great and there were no crevasses. All in all- very beautiful..... The trip consisted of myself and Marc Shwartz- on behalf of The University of Virginia Outdoors Club.
Posted Jan 22, 2005 9:42 pm

AlexeyDRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier-Espinosa Route (somewhere in between) Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2005


Reached the crater rim, but decided not to continue to the summit. The reason was, that it seemed a bit exposed and would have probably warranted roping up, and at that point we wanted to save our energy for the descent. It was close enough for us.

Posted Jan 18, 2005 9:51 am

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