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Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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pjc30943standard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 24, 2007
A trip planned by SP member hashfxn.
Round trip from the huts was ~15 hours, in part due to slow going in the labyrinth. Summit at 10:30am, left at 1:30am.
The glacier was very solid, was not steep, and we left all our pro and rope at its base with no reservations. Temps were quite cold, and in general it was very windy--especially at the summit--but the sky was as clear as blue crystal... Very nice conditions overall.
Posted Apr 15, 2007 7:04 pm

doumallWell worth the trip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 27, 2007

doumall

A memorable and smooth 48 hours on the mountain with my girl Debbie. Jampa Glacier route. Hung out and slept the first afternoon at Piedra Grande, acclimatization hike to 17000' the next day and back to camp, then next morning 6 hours from Piedra to the summit. Felt very strong until 18,000'. I think frequent winter trips in Colorado, tons of water and this acclimatization scheme were perfect prep for this mountain. Would have been ~45mins quicker if not for a lost bag of gear on our flight in, only one shotty headlamp through the labrinth was slow going.

Glacier is dying, was in very easy climbing condition with small penetites. Go soon, or this route will be a scree slog through and through. Teotihuacan, Mexico City urban and historic districs and Izta were also parts of this trip.
Posted Apr 5, 2007 5:24 pm

shanahan96first glacier climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 30, 2007

shanahan96

jamie nellis and i summited oribaza(18,512') on march 30th 2007. this was a special summit for us. it was our first glacier together and a capper on a successful first international climbing expedition.

the mountain is flat-out gorgeous! unbelievable time!

jamie
Posted Apr 5, 2007 12:16 pm

El_CapitanFollow the "Oso"  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 22, 2007
Climbed this with climbmn and another friend. Much thanks to the "Oso", Roberto Flores a local guide, for giving us directions all day and letting us follow him and his client up the mountain. Took a lot longer then I ever expected, 17 hours round trip. If you are thinking about Pico, I would highly suggest you hire "Oso" as your guide as his prices are quite reasonable and the routefinding can be tricky in the dark. We would not have been successful without his guidance (even though we weren't his paying clients).
Posted Mar 3, 2007 4:10 am

Mescalito345Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2007

Mescalito345

On 01/01/07, we woke up at midnight to attempt Orizaba. The winds had died down, but the valley below was covered in clouds. We put on crampons, and climbed up some icy chutes between the rocks. After climbing to about 16,000 feet, a thick fog moved in. It looked like we might have to turn around, but finally the clouds broke, and we could see the rising sun.

At around 6:00 a.m., we roped up and started the long slog up the glacier. The lower glacier was icy, and it was hard to penetrate the ice with an axe. We continued upwards at a slow but steady pace. I found that the cross-over step (French technique) worked the best on the steeper slopes. We finally reached the summit (18,500 feet) at around 10:00 a.m. The valleys below us were covered in clouds, but it was sunny on the peak. We took some pictures of the summit crater, and then headed back down.

Posted Feb 25, 2007 3:26 pm

WallylongridgeJamapa glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 18, 1982

Wallylongridge

Had a great time on this hill and met a lot of nice people.
Posted Feb 18, 2007 7:29 pm

highicefirst OC climb
one year after getting into mountaineering, I tried this peak in my first out-of-country climb, but turned around 1000 ft from the top due to a sick buddy. it was a white-out anyway with high winds, but a great experience!
Posted Feb 1, 2007 5:37 pm

Dave SJamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 4, 2007

Dave S

Just about perfect weather matched with good snow conditions made for a great day on the mountain!
Posted Jan 8, 2007 7:53 pm

weeds19Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 4, 2006

weeds19

Perfect weather and very solid snow on the glacier helped make this a strenuous, but uneventful climb. The glacier did get a little steeper than I expected.
Posted Jan 4, 2007 10:38 pm

Rinat ShagisultanovRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier to Ice Needle + traverse to the summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 23, 2006

Rinat Shagisultanov

Climbed from the high camp before entering the Labyrinth in good snow/ice conditions. Descended via Ruta Espinoza to the lower section of the glacier and returned to the camp. Made it in 4 days total from San Diego to the summit and back. This is a beautiful mountain with relatively easy access, but it should not be underestimated as the potential fall on the glacier may be fatal - self-arrest is difficult.
Posted Dec 27, 2006 7:06 pm

laureljarndtJampa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2004

laureljarndt

Easy way to knock off 18,000ft. After a day of acclimitizing and reconnisence we summitted from hut and back down to town in one day, but what a disappointing environment. From the trash in Mexico, to the theivery at the hut to the disgusting disregard for the 14,000 camp...very depressing, do not recommend.
Posted Nov 20, 2006 2:15 pm

phydeuxNice  Sucess!

phydeux

Spent Thanksgiving (USA) in central Mexico and did this via the Piedra Grande hut/Jampala Glacier with a Mexican friend from Puebla. Nice clear, calm summit day.
Posted Oct 7, 2006 5:03 pm

renogurtWorst Storm Ever  Sucess!

renogurt

The clouds started coming in at 16,500, too cold to wait for others, so I didn't see my friends til we all met at camp 4 hours later. Went to the beach later that night.
Posted Oct 5, 2006 2:01 am

chris_gouletRoute Climbed: Barranca Seca, Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 18, 1991

chris_goulet

Sea-level to summit human-powered solo ascent.

Bicycle/trailer ride with all my gear from Veracruz to Coscomatepec, then walked from the humid East side of the volcano, up the Barranca Seca (dry creek) and the NE slopes. This was my first 'high altitude' peak, so I followed acclimatization 'by the book' with camps at 10000', 12000', 13000', 14000', 15000' and 16000'. Other than breathing like crazy, this was an easy climb technically, with the continuous good weather. The magnificent Citlalt├ępetl volcano fueled my passion for masterpieces of mineral splendor, with its grand and exquisite multi-hued crater.

I was practicing and testing myself for Aconcagua, so after summiting and back to 16000' camp, I returned to the crater rim a couple days later and camped at 18600'. That was awesome and I felt great, so I became a high altitude junkie.
Posted Sep 30, 2006 4:26 am

bidwelldkRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2005

bidwelldk

Fantastic Trip. Spent one night camping on the way to Piedre Grande and one night @ the hut. Felt a little nauseous above 15,000', would've spent one more night @ the hut if I had to it again, but made the summit and had a great trip.
Posted Sep 14, 2006 7:30 pm

peakrat76Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 7, 1978

peakrat76

Stormed off in 75. Returned in 78. Sr. Reyes at the Antigua Flor arranged transport. We owned the hut and mountain for several days. No crowds back then. Got a midnight start and summited on the 7th. Beautiful day, good snow/ice conditions. First peak over 14K.
Posted Aug 14, 2006 10:16 pm

TheBootfitterSuffered AMS - Didn't make it...
Date Climbed: Nov 11, 2005

TheBootfitter

Hiked up to about 16K the day before and felt great, but the fumes and stuffy air in the hut -- along with sleeping at 14K -- made me nauseous. Had we stuck around one more day, I feel I could have made it up, but our group opted to climb La Malinche instead.
Posted Jul 31, 2006 2:30 pm

seth@LOKISnd, The Espinozas were very nice  Sucess!

seth@LOKI

Go with the Espinozas in Chlachichuca. Very nice people to stay with.
Posted Jul 26, 2006 7:14 pm

seth@LOKIFelt like fourteen! Don't go to Cholula  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 23, 2001

seth@LOKI

Climbed with Dazve Thompson, Dirk Anderson, Jess Rigg, and Mike from Texas. Very cool, loved the Crater View and into Jamapa Valley. Did not love the junk crosses on the summit. The forest is said to have been much more prolific before corruption killed it. Worth the trip. Do NOT go to Cholula or you will see what religious rule can do to depress the populous. Lame... go the Vera Cruz or Ouaxaca.
Posted Jul 26, 2006 7:13 pm

BalletBoyRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 14, 2006

BalletBoy

Made the Summit in one push from the Piedra Grande hut on the 14th after being turned around on the 12th due to weather. What an excellent view. Please see my trip report, titled - Feb. 14th, 2006: An awesome view of Mexico for more details and pictures about climbing this beautiful mountain.
Posted Jul 8, 2006 8:46 pm

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