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Pico de Orizaba Climber's Log

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Hikerchick63Route Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: November 6, 2005  Sucess!
Climbed with Guilty, but not really, since I left the very noisy Piedra Grande Hut at 12:45 AM and Guilty didn't hit the trail 'til 4 AM. Nonetheless, he was on the summit within 30 minutes of my arrival up there and then proceeded to beat me down to the hut. Clear skies, but freezing wind chill factor. No altitude symptoms and up and down in 10 hours. Most excellent, SWEET adventure.
Posted Nov 21, 2005 6:22 pm

Dan BaileyRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Nov 2005  Sucess!

Dan Bailey

With Joe Akeem. Beautiful easy route on a stunning peak, though next time I'd acclimatise for another day before the summit push...rarely have i felt so sick on a mountain
Posted Nov 19, 2005 12:42 pm

joe_akeemRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: November 12, 2005  Sucess!

joe_akeem

With Dan Bailey in 9 hrs round trip from the hut. Fantastic weather, perfect conditions.
Posted Nov 18, 2005 5:25 pm

GuiltyRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: November 6, 05

Guilty

Left at 4am, and took a great digitial video of the whole route, especially the sunrise and inside the crater. I was back by 10:45am. This was my second time up the mountain. Met some wonderful climbers and locals. That was the best part, eating there food and watching them climb in there street clothes.
Posted Nov 14, 2005 10:28 pm

RModelliRoute Climbed: Jamapa glacier/espolon Date Climbed: November 11, 2005  Sucess!

RModelli

Very nice solo climb, the night was beautiful and the weather perfect. There was some snowfall a day before, and the snow was somewhat deeper in the summit cone, but still in very good cramponing condition.

It took me 7 hours and 30 minutes up to the summit and back down to the hut.
Posted Nov 14, 2005 4:25 pm

dkmayhewRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: December of 1998  Sucess!

dkmayhew

This was my first international climbing trip. It was easy to organize. We stay at Senior Reyes and had a good experience. We were in Mexico for only 6 days. I wish we had more time to acclimate. I had quite the headache at 18,000 feet on summit day.
Posted Nov 13, 2005 8:40 pm

Bill MaxwellRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: 11th October 2005  Sucess!

Bill Maxwell

Climbed the mountain with an excellent local guide (Roberto Flores Rodroguez) during a 4 day window in a business trip. We had the mountain to ourselves, but there was a lot of soft, unconsolidated snow. As a consequence we 'summited' in the Kanchenjunga sense, i.e. we reached the crater rim, but declined to do the last few yards along unconsolidated snow to the pile of metal at the 'true' summit. A great route - and I would also recommend the Limons in Tlachichuca for excellent hospitality and transport.
Posted Oct 17, 2005 10:00 am

Seth MaciejowskiRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: July 2004

Seth Maciejowski

Well, my new wife and I made it to 17,500' under bluebird skies with no one else on the mountain. AMS started bothering us so we weren't taking any chances and we went down. We had a difficult time finding a route through the glacier polished moraine since it has retreated so much in recent years. This is a great climb, a little different from your typical glacier slog with scrambling, scree and snow sections. Weather is more stable in the winter, but you can get lucky in the summer like we did and not another soul was on the mountain.
Posted Oct 14, 2005 5:06 pm

edlRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Nov. 97  Sucess!
Great route. Easy glacier climb.
Posted Sep 25, 2005 3:05 pm

Peak_BaggerRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Jan 24 2005  Sucess!

Peak_Bagger

My 1st big peak. Went pretty smooth. Got a hitch with some Mexican climbers up to the hut. Took a rest day, then summited in 6hrs and were down in 4. Took a nice direct line up the galcier as the conditions were perfect.
Posted Sep 9, 2005 5:06 pm

althegreekRoute Climbed: jamapa Date Climbed: january 2004  Sucess!

althegreek

nice peak. straightforward. slog up the glacier. how did all the junk get on the summit?
Posted Jul 12, 2005 7:43 pm

MariePRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: Early January 2005  Sucess!

MarieP

The route is streight forward in the daylight, just follow the ducks. We camped around 15,500 ft, there was almost no snow to melt. Senior Limon provided great service and prices.
Posted Jun 17, 2005 1:00 am

mountainjunkieRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier (normal route) Date Climbed: January 24, 2005  Sucess!

mountainjunkie

Spent one night in Tlachichucha, then drove to Piedra Grande hut arrive around 3:30pm. Spend the night at the hut, hiked to the glacier the next day (1/23), then back to hut. Spend half a night at hut. Summitted at about 10:30am on 1/24/05 via the standard route going up from the hut at Piedra Grande. Woke at 1:00am to cold temperatures and icy conditions, but skies were clear and the summit was visible. Started climbing at 2am. I began w/ mild AMS, but it got better (or at least not worse) as we ascended. Reached the glacier at 16,200' after about 3 hours. Climbed glacier to crater rim, then traversed the rim to the high point. Beautiful summit w/ clear skies and spectacular views. I felt pretty good on the summit. No headache and only mild nausea. Got lost on the way down so it took over 5 hours to descend.
Posted Jun 13, 2005 7:02 pm

km_donovanRoute Climbed: Ruta Directa (Jamapa Glacier) Date Climbed: November 23, 2000  Sucess!

km_donovan

It was a clear windless night. We left high camp on the tongue of the glacier at 4:30 and were on the summit at 9:45. We went directly up the glacier toward a notch that bisects crater rim leading to the summit.
Posted Jun 9, 2005 7:03 am

wingedfeetRoute Climbed: Jamapa Date Climbed: 83  Sucess!

wingedfeet

Reached the top in New Year's day 83.
Posted May 20, 2005 3:23 pm

ClimberMan420Route Climbed: Jamapa glacier Date Climbed: Dec 14th 2004  Sucess!

ClimberMan420

Freakin cold, difficult finding the glacier with the headlamp I rented but very easy climb otherwise. First high altitude climb for me, first solo ascent of a descent mountain. Started at 2AM, 4:45 later on the summit 15 min before sunrise, unforgettable view. Only climber on the mountain that day except a party of two about 5 hours behind me
Posted Apr 26, 2005 10:41 pm

madclimberRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: January 8, 2005  Sucess!

madclimber

The route was difficult to find in the night, just look for the "ducks". Crevasses were very small so we didn't rope up. Excellent price and hospitality with Senor Limon.
Posted Apr 19, 2005 8:24 pm

soslawRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: January 17, 2003  Sucess!

soslaw

Climbed with Andre after being weathered out by high winds at 17K the previous year. Had our gear trucked to the hut but we got out at 10K and walked up to acclimatize. Spent the night in the hut and moved to high camp at the base of the glacier the next day. Some ice on the rte gaining the base of the glacier. Alpine start the next morning (the crux is always getting out of a warm sleeping bag to confront the cold reality). Climbed to the summit under clear but windy skies. Crater is stunning especially when compared to familiar Cascade volcanoes. A moment of silence in memory of Andre's uncle who always wanted to but never climbed Orizaba. Mexican people were warm, friendly and delightful
Posted Apr 18, 2005 2:48 pm

patascentRoute Climbed: Jamapa Galcier Date Climbed: February 3, 2003  Sucess!

patascent

Great day climb from Piedra Grande. Couldn't believe the pile of metal debris at the top.
Posted Apr 6, 2005 4:22 pm

AlpinistRoute Climbed: Jamapa Glacier Date Climbed: March 3, 2005

Alpinist

Started with Bill after sunrise from high camp at 15,600'. During the preceding days, the winds seemed worse just before sunrise, and then it would die down a bit during mid day. Since all of the other teams that week were unsuccessful starting early morning, we thought we would try it later in the morning hoping that the winds would be less severe, especially since we camped so high and didn't have far to go. (Ice/rock fall danger is minimal on the Jamapa Glacier.) Unfortunately Mother Nature did not cooperate. The wind was gusting 60-70 MPH up high, enough to blow you over. We struggled through it for several hours, but progress was too slow. We turned back at 5pm and made it back to camp just after sunset. We didn't make the summit, but I did break my personal altitude record and had a great overall experence.
Posted Mar 26, 2005 11:15 am

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