Pik MC is the first significant glaciated summit in the north-heading ridge situated on the right side of Zabluzdeniya glacier and on the left side of Nazarova glacier. This ridge emerges from the main ridge which consists of several over-6000m peaks (Pik Korzhenevskovo, Kyzylagyn..) and culminates by Pik Lenin.
The mountain offers spectacular views to the valleys of river Dzhanajdartaka, of Nazarova and Zabluzhdeniya glacier as well as a splendid view of the main ridge with unnamed peak 6624m. The ascent is not very hard and the peak is appropriate for ski-descents.
Probably the first ski-descent of this peak was pursued in July 2005 by Martin Cadik. Ascent: from the west side, partly on skis. Descent: completely on skis along the hanging glacier.
The area of Dzanajdartaka river and surrounding peaks are completely out of focus of climbers and trekkers. In comparison to hundreds of climbers and trekkers in the Pik Lenin area you do not find a human here. Thus, as Pik Lenina is over 7000 m, none is interested in peaks between 6000 and 6684 meters lying nearby. There are many peaks, most of them believed unclimbed, that are suitable for routes of different grade.
Kyrgyzstan can be reached simply from many European airports with companies like Russian Aeroflot (via Moscow) and Air Pulkovo (via St. Peterburg), German Lufthansa, KLM, British Airways (from London), Kyrgyz airlines (from Munchen directly to Bishkek), Turkish Airlines (via Istanbul), and other.
When leaving the Manas (i.e. Bishkek's) airport back to your home country do not be surprised, that for several companies the „leaving cost“ USD 10 is included in the price of air ticket, but for many others you have to pay this fee before registration to flight. Be also very careful with the weight of your luggage, as clerks weigh ALL YOUR luggage at once! And you have to pay at least USD 8 per kilogram exceeding over 20 kilograms.
From Bishkek you can use domestic airlines – Kyrgyz airlines or Altyn Air to fly from Bishkek to Osh. It takes about 50 minutes by Jak-40 jet plane. Prices for 2005 season are: Kyrgyz airlines return ticket USD 80, one way ticket USD 60 Altyn airlines return ticket approximately USD 100 Tickets are available in advance by your order realized through the local travel agency or just after your arrive at Manas airport. Only for cheaper Kyrgyz airlines tickets can be sold out for the first flights.
Another possibility is bus or taxi for about 800 kilometres long route to the second biggest city Osh. Asking for a taxi is the simplest at Osh bazaar in Bishkek.
From Osh use any of travel agency transport support or ask for a „taxi“ UAZ, gazik (Russian version of a jeep). In fact, you can also use any of robust cars like the famous Soviet car Volha, because the above mentioned are able to win over the dirty road from Osh via the city Gulcha over the passes Cidcik (2400 m) and Taldyk (3615 m).
Except of 28 countries citizens of all other countries need a valid Kyrgzyz visa to enter the country. They are easily obtained at your local Kyrgyz Embassy for about USD 45 per person. Sometimes you need a letter of invitation by Kyrgyz travel agency to get visas. The letter can be easily obtained by several travel agencies in Bishkek ans Osh, some of them are mentioned LOWER. Moreover, citizens of over twenty countries are also free from OVIR (police department of foreign affairs) registration in Osh and border zone permit (both cost for about USD 20 per person). The border control is at Bardobo.
There are NO CLIMBING OR TREKKING permits in Kyrgyzstan since the beginning of season 2003. The situation can be changed for next year, but now you do not have to pay any money for climbs or treks!
When To Climb
Pik MC is probably climbable during all the year. However, the best weather conditions are from mid July to mid August. The risk of avalanches is high, especially after snowfalls (in fact, I have triggered one during the ski-descent) and the possibility of heavy avalanches even increases during the winter and spring as the steepness of the hanging glacier and slopes is high.
The weather can be pretty unstable all over the year. According to our experience in summer 2005, there was majority of days with sunshine in the early morning. Around 10 a.m. clouds and fog appeared, and in the afternoon rain and storms continued. Finally, in the evening clear heaven covered with stars appeared. Snow storms caused about 40 cm thick snow cover in the valley and many avalanches of different size on slopes. On the other side - new snow allowed us to reach the camp below the Pik MC on skis.
If you plan to reach the summit of Pik MC from the west side, you should camp to the right of Zabluzhdeniya glacier. There are just a several possibilities to build a good camp - on the moraines of the hanging glaciers several tens of meters above the Zabluzhdeniya glacier. Good shovel (metallic) is highly recommended here to straighten the debris a it. Take care to select the right place, since we have seen several avalanches fallen down right to Zabluzhdeniya glacier. On several places there is also a risk of serac falls.
During the summer you can obtain clean water here runnig from hanging glaciers or some temporarily-melted snowfields (just on sunny days), everything freezes again in the night.
First ascent: probably the first ascent of this unclimbed peak was pursued in July 2005 by Martin Cadik (Czech Republic) from the west side, partly on skis. The descent was done completely on skis along the hanging glacier. If you know anything about possible first ascents feel free to add it!
UPDATE ABOUT FIRST CLIMBS!!! SP member Rybakov have declared, that t this peak as well as the others mentioned are climbed. Period, etc... NO DETAILS.
Ascent (green line - see the image below): probably the easiest ascent is from the west side (from Zabluzhdeniya glacier). There are several possibilities, including ascent along the hanging glacier (the same route as the descent described below). We went up along the couloir on the left side of this hanging glacier (green line on the image). Crampons and ice axes are highly recommended here. Finally, there are several meters of rock climbing (up to grade UIAA II), but be careful - the rock is _very_ unstable (although it seems to be very solid) and _everything_ you catch can remain in your hand. Quite an easy slope follows above these rocks, but since there is typically a lot of snow, it could be hard to continue without skis or rackets. Beware of avalanches and cornices.
It is certainly possible to reach the summit from the east (from Nazarova glacier) as well, but this is harder than from the west and obviously not suitable for ski descends.
Ski descent (red line): From the top of Pik MC head to the north along the ridge (beware of cornices). This is pretty nice and easy part of the descent with habitually good snow conditions and splendid views. Then turn left and down (to the west) along the glacier (not so much creveases). The slope is getting much more steeper. There was no snow on the steepest part of the glacier in July 2005 (and this was rather typical) - just the ice with little frozen stones making of this part quite an "adrenaline matter". You can continue directly down along the couloir, but old avalanches are usually packed there resulting in a poor snow conditions. Or you can traverse to the left through the wide slope (beware of avalanches, this slope is very steep, but since it is not so exposed to the sun, the snow can remain there for a longer time - I have triggered an avalanche here in 2005!) and alongside the rocks straightly down.