Overview
Pika Peak stands 8453ft high in one of the most remote sections of the Bitterroot Mountains. It is just north of El Capitan and NW of Taxwil Mountain. Pika Peak has only had one recorded ascent by James Den Uyl. The real value in this peak is in its remoteness and its almost unparalleled view of solitude.
Getting There
The approach is the most difficult part of this climb. The nearest trailhead is at Lake Como Recreation Area, likely a day or more hike away. The only known ascent of this peak has a description under https://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=1002738&confirm_post=12 where there is a detailed account of the approach.
Route
The route is pretty straightforward. If you are coming from the east (Lake Como) you will want to summit Taxwil Mountain before you will have a chance to get to Pika Peak along the attached ridge. You will also have to scout the conditions when you arrive. The snow pack will greatly change your route. Too much snow and avalanche danger will have you climb up towards Peak 8155 before angling towards Tawil to avoid the numerous snow chutes. If there's very little snow you may be able to take a more direct route to gain Taxwil and scramble up the steep walls surrounding the ponds just east of El Capitan. In June of 2017 the snow chutes were solid enough to climb with an ice axe for support. The amount of snow allowed for a direct ascent on the steep snow, which nears vertical the closer you get to the peak. If you're climbing during the melting season there will be patches of snow that are likely hollowed out from the warming rocks below. Use caution when walking on any snow on the ridge. Once on top of Taxwil Mountain you will clearly see your route to Pika Peak along the ridgeline. It's a simple walk over from there to a beautiful view of the valley beyond, a view very few people have witnessed.
When to Climb
This peak is climbable all year, but for the easiest conditions I recommend mid to late summer when most of the snow is gone. As mentioned above the snow can get hallowed out from the bottom's warming rocks. The snow on the face was at an angle where an ice axe is advisable, crampons a plus.
Camping
You have to love national forests. Free camping everywhere you can see and there isn't a lot of pressure up in this area until the snow melts.
External Links
Read an account of the first ascent of this trip here: https://wordpress.com/post/climbonexpeditions.wordpress.com/419
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