Hot, windless. Hard after only 2 prev days in Huaraz. Spectacular summit.
jonboy - May 2, 2014 11:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2012
normal route
I climbed this first in 2011 as my very first mountain experience and I was hooked. I climbed it again in 2013 as an acclimatization peak in preparation for Chopicalqui. I'll probably climb it again as a prep for Huascaran. I love it.
What were the temperatures you encountered on summit (night and) day on your two climbs? Wondering if I need to haul my double boots, or is a super-gaiter style boot would work for the weather.
What did you end up doing? I am in the same position myself.
CTHLOY - Sep 22, 2013 10:21 am Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2013
Pisco - normal route
I agree with the previous post, going down a loose loess wall in the beginning of the moraine traverse was the sketchiest part of the whole climb. The first day we went to high camp, with lunch at the refugio, and then the second day we got up at 3am, made it to the summit shortly after sunrise and returned to Huaraz. The crevasses were well overbridged and no problem to cross.
We were the only ones on the mountain! Absolutely stunning 360 degree summit views!
Farmer - Sep 8, 2013 1:10 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2013
Normalroute
What an amazing view! The most dangerous part was getting down and up the morene.....
Did this as the first peak of the expedition and it was fun. Nothing technical, of course be wary of crevaces. Up and down in 2 days and from there straight to Chopi.
Jake - Jul 9, 2013 8:41 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2013
Pisco
Climbed Pisco via normal route with my partner Jacek. Wonderful conditions and amazing views. The most difficult bit was a moraine with sand and loose stones.
cyffredinol - Apr 28, 2013 11:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
A lovely climb
I had precisely zero mountaineering experience but was in good shape and well acclimatized after two weeks trekking in the area. Fellow trekkers convinced me that really this was a suitable peak for a beginner like me (with a guide). I went with Galaxia as their rates were reasonable and our guide was excellent. The first day, took the bus up and hiked in to the Refugio. I highly recommend staying there as the food is good and a warm bunk is way more comfortable than a chilly tent (after two weeks of treking I really appreciated this!). Got up at midnight and left at 1 am. Summitted at around 7 am after seemingly endless trudging in the dark. My friends were right, there was nothing technical about this climb and it was totally appropriate for a beginner with a guide. Definitely would not have gone without a guide or unroped due to the presence of crevasses. Fantastic view from the summit. The walk back down the glacier was a delight. Crossing the moraine on the way back was exhausting, it seemed like it would never end. Got back to the Refugio before noon and spent the rest of the day catching up on sleep! The mountain is said to be very popular but we encountered only one other group, and this was the high season, so I guess popular is relative.
Alberto Rampini - Aug 30, 2012 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 1998
Standard Route
Wonderful day!
tristosterone - Aug 5, 2012 6:12 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2012
normal route
A lovely hike up to a stunning view. Altitude made for hard work!
Just a note - we hid a small stash of gear at the meadow below the Refugio before making a higher camp. We hid the stuff very well, but someone was obviously watching us and made the effort of searching for it and stealing a t-shirt and some runners. No big deal, just don't stash ANYTHING there as people will search long and hard for it if they see you leave it there. The buggers took my t-shirt but not my trash!
This was my first climb in the Cordillera Blanca and I was impressed. Climbed the normal route with Ryan and Mike. It was mostly just a walk up with 2 steeper sections about half way up. The 360 degree views of the higher peaks of the range from the top are something I will not forget.
andret - Aug 13, 2011 7:18 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011
Nice & Easy
Summited from base camp (4650m). Left at 3:30, arrived on top at 9am. Beautiful weather, easy route-finding. Storm came in as we descended, so we spent our rest day at base camp and in the refugio before starting off for Chopi.
iechegar - Aug 11, 2011 5:31 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2011
Normal route from base camp
Started from base camp below Refugio Peru at midnight and summited at 8 am. Superb views of surrounding peaks but too crowded, had to wait to ascend/descend some sections. The moraine was quite a chore.
boisedoc - Aug 5, 2011 12:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2011
spectacular views
Really spectalular views of surrounding peaks. Unfortunately, I did not feel so spectacular as I was coming down with food poisoning during the ascent. The glacier itself is in pretty good condition and there are two short steeper sections. The moraine crossing on the other hand, is quite a pain in the ass- ascending and descending. The refugio is a nice place to stay and eat.
We only decided to climb Pisco yesterday, after being forced to descend on Chopicalqui due to the snowfall of the last few days.
Contrary to Chopi, the route on Pisco was in fine condition, because of the many people climbing it every day. We got to the summit a few minutes after sunrise. It was a bit windy, so we didn´t stay long, but the views were spectacular!
We descended pretty fast, because we wanted to get back to Huaraz early afternoon. Back at the refuge, we ordered something to eat, and it took a very long time before our order was ready. Still, we managed to get back in Huaraz before three.
Ted Eliason - Jul 4, 2014 1:05 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2014
Slog up a reflector ovenHot, windless. Hard after only 2 prev days in Huaraz. Spectacular summit.
jonboy - May 2, 2014 11:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2012
normal routeI climbed this first in 2011 as my very first mountain experience and I was hooked. I climbed it again in 2013 as an acclimatization peak in preparation for Chopicalqui. I'll probably climb it again as a prep for Huascaran. I love it.
InaLandFarAway - May 21, 2014 2:05 pm
Re: normal routeWhat were the temperatures you encountered on summit (night and) day on your two climbs? Wondering if I need to haul my double boots, or is a super-gaiter style boot would work for the weather.
Thanks!
JtheChemE - Jan 25, 2015 2:56 pm
Re: normal routeWhat did you end up doing? I am in the same position myself.
CTHLOY - Sep 22, 2013 10:21 am Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2013
Pisco - normal routeI agree with the previous post, going down a loose loess wall in the beginning of the moraine traverse was the sketchiest part of the whole climb. The first day we went to high camp, with lunch at the refugio, and then the second day we got up at 3am, made it to the summit shortly after sunrise and returned to Huaraz. The crevasses were well overbridged and no problem to cross.
We were the only ones on the mountain! Absolutely stunning 360 degree summit views!
Farmer - Sep 8, 2013 1:10 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2013
NormalrouteWhat an amazing view! The most dangerous part was getting down and up the morene.....
Humberto - Jul 24, 2013 4:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2013
Pisco normal RouteDid this as the first peak of the expedition and it was fun. Nothing technical, of course be wary of crevaces. Up and down in 2 days and from there straight to Chopi.
Jake - Jul 9, 2013 8:41 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2013
PiscoClimbed Pisco via normal route with my partner Jacek. Wonderful conditions and amazing views. The most difficult bit was a moraine with sand and loose stones.
cyffredinol - Apr 28, 2013 11:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012
A lovely climbI had precisely zero mountaineering experience but was in good shape and well acclimatized after two weeks trekking in the area. Fellow trekkers convinced me that really this was a suitable peak for a beginner like me (with a guide). I went with Galaxia as their rates were reasonable and our guide was excellent. The first day, took the bus up and hiked in to the Refugio. I highly recommend staying there as the food is good and a warm bunk is way more comfortable than a chilly tent (after two weeks of treking I really appreciated this!). Got up at midnight and left at 1 am. Summitted at around 7 am after seemingly endless trudging in the dark. My friends were right, there was nothing technical about this climb and it was totally appropriate for a beginner with a guide. Definitely would not have gone without a guide or unroped due to the presence of crevasses. Fantastic view from the summit. The walk back down the glacier was a delight. Crossing the moraine on the way back was exhausting, it seemed like it would never end. Got back to the Refugio before noon and spent the rest of the day catching up on sleep! The mountain is said to be very popular but we encountered only one other group, and this was the high season, so I guess popular is relative.
paulparkie - Nov 12, 2012 4:30 pm
All to ourselvesClear skies, strong winds, worth the effort.
Alberto Rampini - Aug 30, 2012 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 1998
Standard RouteWonderful day!
tristosterone - Aug 5, 2012 6:12 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2012
normal routeA lovely hike up to a stunning view. Altitude made for hard work!
Just a note - we hid a small stash of gear at the meadow below the Refugio before making a higher camp. We hid the stuff very well, but someone was obviously watching us and made the effort of searching for it and stealing a t-shirt and some runners. No big deal, just don't stash ANYTHING there as people will search long and hard for it if they see you leave it there. The buggers took my t-shirt but not my trash!
astrobassman - Jul 30, 2012 11:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2012
Unforgettable ViewsThis was my first climb in the Cordillera Blanca and I was impressed. Climbed the normal route with Ryan and Mike. It was mostly just a walk up with 2 steeper sections about half way up. The 360 degree views of the higher peaks of the range from the top are something I will not forget.
andret - Aug 13, 2011 7:18 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011
Nice & EasySummited from base camp (4650m). Left at 3:30, arrived on top at 9am. Beautiful weather, easy route-finding. Storm came in as we descended, so we spent our rest day at base camp and in the refugio before starting off for Chopi.
iechegar - Aug 11, 2011 5:31 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2011
Normal route from base campStarted from base camp below Refugio Peru at midnight and summited at 8 am. Superb views of surrounding peaks but too crowded, had to wait to ascend/descend some sections. The moraine was quite a chore.
boisedoc - Aug 5, 2011 12:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2011
spectacular viewsReally spectalular views of surrounding peaks. Unfortunately, I did not feel so spectacular as I was coming down with food poisoning during the ascent. The glacier itself is in pretty good condition and there are two short steeper sections. The moraine crossing on the other hand, is quite a pain in the ass- ascending and descending. The refugio is a nice place to stay and eat.
rgg - Jul 8, 2011 12:33 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2011
Normal route from the refugeWe only decided to climb Pisco yesterday, after being forced to descend on Chopicalqui due to the snowfall of the last few days.
Contrary to Chopi, the route on Pisco was in fine condition, because of the many people climbing it every day. We got to the summit a few minutes after sunrise. It was a bit windy, so we didn´t stay long, but the views were spectacular!
We descended pretty fast, because we wanted to get back to Huaraz early afternoon. Back at the refuge, we ordered something to eat, and it took a very long time before our order was ready. Still, we managed to get back in Huaraz before three.
kevin trieu - Jul 4, 2011 5:30 pm
fun summitnice climb and moraine camp was excellent. treated with a stunning sunset.
bighornmonkey - Jul 3, 2011 4:32 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2011
First summit in the BlancaAfter 9 days in the Blanca, we were nicely acclimated to summit Pisco. Departed Moraine camp at 7pm. Fun summit.
Silvia Mazzani - May 13, 2011 10:10 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 1998
Pisco West Normal RouteA very fine ascent with spectacular views over Blanca and its peaks!