Pisco Oeste (Western Pisco) Climber's Log
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|soslaw||Route Climbed: South West Slope Date Climbed: June 25, 2005|
|Summited with Andre on a relatively clear and calm morning. Views of the surrounding peaks of the Cordillera Blanca are incredible. With a 60 meter, 50-60 degree pitch the route's grade should be increased to AD+.|
|Posted Jul 5, 2005 5:38 pm|
|davichoverde||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: June 18, 2005|
|Our climbing team as well as others would change the rating for this climb from PD to AD because of the 50º pitch on the ice wall which is close to the summit. I was not disappointed at not reaching the goal since the view of all the sorrounding area is fantastic. Huandoy, Artesonraju, Chopicalqui, etc. Would't mind going back again but with better ice climbing equipment.|
|Posted Jul 2, 2005 7:20 am|
|foolscongress||Route Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: 18 July 2002|
|Summited with my brother and some friends after two weeks of bad weather defeated us in the Paron Valley. Thought for a minute the direct south face would be nice, then watched the whole thing avalanche. We took the regular route to the top, and it was a long day for me. Left the meadow by the hut at 4 a.m. and didn't get back until 6 p.m. Beautiful mountain with spectacular views north and south. As has been mentioned, the last 50 meters was a little spicier than advertised.|
|Posted Feb 1, 2005 7:24 pm|
|amcfarre||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: June 14, 2004|
|Walked to Pisco's base camp as an extension of the Santa Cruz trek. Great first views of Pisco from the top of the pass. Being the dry season, our trek had constant clouds and rain nearly every day. But the rain and snow at base camp stopped and our summit day was perfectly clear. Great views! |
Never climbed this mountain before 2004, but I can say it was harder than the guide books said.
Pictures and journals online at:
|Posted Jul 15, 2004 5:04 pm|
|tiefenthaler||Route Climbed: SW-slopes Date Climbed: 04 July 2004|
|As already said in the previous posts, Pisco is not a simple stroll anymore. When leading the steep ice pitch 2 ice-tools are recommended strongly. Should be rated harden than PD.|
|Posted Jul 5, 2004 7:23 pm|
|thomas.schmeidl||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 4. July 2004|
|After 10cm of snow at the base camp the day before we had a nice climb.|
At the moment Pisco should be graded harder than PD (see previous post).
|Posted Jul 5, 2004 12:46 pm|
|Steve Pritchard||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 22 June 2004|
|Before attempting Pisco rumours abound that there was a change to the route, and that 2 ice tools are required. The night before we summited I met a British MIC who said that there was a section equivalent to Scottish grade 3 ice.|
The majority of the route was straightforward, but there was a section of steep snow and ice to traverse. This was for about 45m of 50 degree slope, mainly underneath a serac. I found it quite precarious, having little steep ice experience. A girl turned back the previous day, saying she had no ice climbing experience. However my partners (who found it easy) put in an ice screw to protect this awkward traverse, and there was a snow stake in place before the straight up 50 degree climb. I only used one ice tool.
Just short of the summit the track straddles a cornice crack and I would advise staying to the right on the way up and the left on the way down. A good climb but from my limited experience pérhaps harder than a PD.
|Posted Jun 23, 2004 5:00 pm|
|jamesfeldmann||Route Climbed: Dog route Date Climbed: July 19, 2002|
|After two weeks of poor conditions over around Paron and Artesonraju, friends and I regrouped in Huaraz before humbling ourselves with this peak. Damn fine to be atop and looking over into the Paron Valley. Damn fine to be there any which way. Crevasses were just about a problem, but still hop-able.|
Pisco and Tambo (seek and ye shall find), don't leave Peru without 'em.
|Posted Oct 14, 2003 2:52 pm|
|max||Route Climbed: Normal (SW) Date Climbed: July 1999|
|Pisco gave us a good training and acclimatisation before we climbed Alpamayo and Huascaran|
|Posted May 13, 2002 1:01 pm|
|felix||Route Climbed: SW-Ridge (normal) Date Climbed: September 1997|
|The last peak in Peru for enjoying the beautiful peruvian mountains. Started early and had a fine time at the peak. Descend was not problematic.|
|Posted May 13, 2002 4:34 am|