Overview
Pisco was first climbed in 1951.The name is said to derive from the great amounts of pisco (a Peruvian liqueur) consumed to celebrate the ascent.Nowadays it is a very popular peak for climbers to acclimatize for a 6000er as well as for guided trekking groups at the end of their tour.
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Getting There and General Information about Cordillera Blanca and Huascaran National Park
See extra page "Cordillera Blanca" |
Approach and Camps
From Huaraz take a collectivo to Yungay (1,5h). In Yungay ask for a shuttle to Pisco base camp in Llanganuco valley (Quebrada Llanganuco). When you bargain with the driver make it clear that you want to go 5km behind the second lake at the first hairpin-curve (tourist buses usually only go to the first lake!). Expect to be charged 15-20 $ for the ride.There are several opportunities to put up your tent on the way to Pisco Oeste. As Pisco is frequently climbed, the camps are heavily used. Carry out everything you bring in and help to conserve the beautiful landscape!
Cebollapampa: 3900m. You can camp in the meadows nearby the curve at km 77. Water nearby. During the season arrieros (mule drivers) are present at Cebollapampa offering their services. For transports to Refugio Peru (=Pisco B.C:) they charge 10$ + 5$ for each animal (one donkey can carry about 30kg)
Base Camp: 4600m. Head up NW on the obvious trail. Spring nearby. The camp sites around the three large boulders are drier then the other ones. 2-3h
Refugio Perú 4640m. Built on a rock near the base camp. 80 Sleeping places, local food and beverages.
Moraine Camp: 4900m. From base camp follow the cairned path, crossing a moraine and the boulder-covered toe of the glacier coming down from Huandoy. Pass the first lake (right hand) and camp near a small laguna (often dry) at the left hand side of the trail. 2h
NB: The moraine camp is not a very pleasant place. If you are well acclimatized you should make it from the B.C. to the top without any problems. If you are not acclimatized plan one or two extra days in Cebollapampa (day hikes to Laguna 69 at the foot of Chacraraju - very recommended!! - or to the Portachuelo de Llnaganuco) resp. at the base camp.
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Route
SW Ridge: Normal route, AD- (since 2004). As you will start during the night it is advisable to check the cairned path crossing the moraines the day before. Gain the glacier at the highest point (5150m) of the moraine and head up W to the Pisco-Huandoy-Col (5300m). Turn NE and follow the obvious SW slopes. At 5450m there is a serac zone (no ice climbing required in 2006). Follow the SW rige to the top. Some crevasses. Outstanding view from the top. Descend on the same route. 5-6h from campo base.Recommended gear: Two 50m ropes, ice tool
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External Links
- www.ianbergeron.com
Personnal website about climbing. My trip report about Peru is there.
- Climbing Nevado Pisco in 2004
Additions and Corrections
[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
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| Rafa Bartolome | Untitled Comment | |
Voted 9/10 | Really the Pisco had 2 summits for many authors of books and maps about Cordillera Blanca: -Pisco East (5760m). -Pisco West (5752m). Generally the normal route is the ridge SW, that you write in the page, to climb the Pisco west. But the highest summit is the East (only 8 meters of difference and normally the mountaineers don't climb this summit). The Pisco west is one of the more popular peaks of Cordillera Blanca and even in some maps only appear this peak as the Pisco (austrian alpensvereinskarte 0/3a). The first climb of Pisco West was realized across the ridge SW by the frenchs C.Kogan, G. Kogan, R.Ceninger and M.Lenoir the 12th july 1951. In effect they celebrate the summit with the liquor of Pisco (from the city of the same name of Perú). | |
| Posted Aug 26, 2004 9:22 am | ||
| Buz Groshong | Agree: No longer AD- | |
Voted 10/10 | I'm not very knowledgeable about the rating systems, but I do know that there is absolutely no way that Pisco is still AD-. I can't say whether the 10 foot section was ice or was snow, but it was only 10 feet and if I can do it with not much effort it absolutely doesn't justify bumping the rating up. | |
| Posted Aug 22, 2006 7:11 pm | ||
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