Welcome to SP!  -
Sort By:

[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
Viewing: 1-20 of 68 « PREV 1 2 3 4 NEXT » 

Cloud OceanAnother huge moraine hike...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2015

Cloud Ocean

The moraine is almost more difficult and dangerous than the actual climb. First hiking up behind the refuge, and then hiking way back down on the other side... awful approach to the glacier. The route was in good condition for us, with no surprises or particular difficulties. It was a very hot night, and we climbed in base layers for the first hour. The summit views at dawn were spectacular, surrounded by peaks and clouds which glowed from the sunrise behind.
Posted Oct 25, 2015 6:56 am

andre hangaardA foggy day on Pisco  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2015

andre hangaard

After almost a week with clear skies we managed to pick a bad weather day for our Pisco summit!
Due to warnings from Eduardo (at Edward's Inn in Huaraz) regarding an upcoming transportation strike in the Ancash region we were stronlgy adviced to leave for Yungay and Pisco one day earlier. Thus we camped at the lovley Llanganuco camping site. The next day we spent at the super friendly Refugio Peru. On the third day we climbed up Moraine camp.
The crux on Pisco I would definately claim is the route finding and crossing over the old dried out moraine. The descent into the moraine is steep and contains lots of loose rock and dirt. If you carry a 25+ kg backpack you need to focus on balance.
To exit the moraine it is important to aim at the lowest part in the saddle on the opposite side. It is easy to miss the "exit" even during daytime.
The campsite at the moraine up at 5.000m was great with water and no wind.
We left at 4:30 with clear skies but half way up unfortunately the weather deteriorated and when we summited at 08:30 it was a complete whiteout.
The climb itself from the glacier was very easy and only a few large but clearly visible crevasses. The steep ice section I'd read about close to the summit was nowhere to find. But then again there was bad a whiteout :-)
Posted Sep 10, 2015 6:11 am

attimountjust myself  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2014


Joined a guided team from base camp, but once I entered the ice kingdom,
i just went by myself.
Nice climb, especially when you have the mountain for yourself and perfect weather.
Posted Jul 27, 2015 9:44 pm

viktor vaughnHalfway up
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2013

viktor vaughn

You get up a valley facing the Chopicalqui. unfortunately, it was cloudy that day, so we couldn't see that much. The refuge is very Alpine looking (Italians built it i believe). We had to abandon halfway up the Pisco due to very bad weather.
July 2013 was very stable weatherwise in the Cordillera Blanca. Our team managed to climb Urus, Ichinca, Toclaraju (through the Bergshrund route), Huascaran Sul and Chopicalqui.
Posted Jan 29, 2015 2:34 pm

JtheChemERe: normal route
What did you end up doing? I am in the same position myself.
Posted Jan 25, 2015 2:56 pm

peter.lacovaraEasy - minus altitude  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2014
Long snow plod, would be a piece of cake except for the altitude. No ice wall this year, just a small crevasse to hop over just below the summit. Beautiful weather and a great view of many of the 6000ers in the Blanca. Like others said, the boulder field below moraine camp was relentless.
Posted Aug 15, 2014 5:23 pm

VivyenneSw ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2014


First climb in PerĂº pretty much straight after arriving in Huaraz. The morraine is a real pain. We took a wrong turn at one point and ended up almost getting our heads bashed in from a huge rock dislodged by a careless climber above. Great weather-clear skies, no wind, great snow conditions- and an absolutely spectacular view frkm the summit. Round trip from base camp and then descending to cebollapamba (and back to Huaraz) in the same day made for a very very long haul.
Posted Aug 15, 2014 1:01 pm

mjp20kStandard route
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2008


Pristine day in the Cordillera Blanca
Posted Jul 21, 2014 8:48 pm

Ted EliasonSlog up a reflector oven  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2014

Ted Eliason

Hot, windless. Hard after only 2 prev days in Huaraz. Spectacular summit.
Posted Jul 4, 2014 1:05 pm

Ted EliasonSlog up a reflector oven  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2014

Ted Eliason

Hot, windless. Hard after only 2 prev days in Huaraz. Spectacular summit.
Posted Jul 4, 2014 1:05 pm

InaLandFarAwayRe: normal route
What were the temperatures you encountered on summit (night and) day on your two climbs? Wondering if I need to haul my double boots, or is a super-gaiter style boot would work for the weather.

Posted May 21, 2014 2:05 pm

jonboynormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2012


I climbed this first in 2011 as my very first mountain experience and I was hooked. I climbed it again in 2013 as an acclimatization peak in preparation for Chopicalqui. I'll probably climb it again as a prep for Huascaran. I love it.
Posted May 2, 2014 11:03 pm

CTHLOYPisco - normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2013


I agree with the previous post, going down a loose loess wall in the beginning of the moraine traverse was the sketchiest part of the whole climb. The first day we went to high camp, with lunch at the refugio, and then the second day we got up at 3am, made it to the summit shortly after sunrise and returned to Huaraz. The crevasses were well overbridged and no problem to cross.
We were the only ones on the mountain! Absolutely stunning 360 degree summit views!
Posted Sep 22, 2013 10:21 am

FarmerNormalroute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2013


What an amazing view! The most dangerous part was getting down and up the morene.....
Posted Sep 8, 2013 1:10 pm

HumbertoPisco normal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2013


Did this as the first peak of the expedition and it was fun. Nothing technical, of course be wary of crevaces. Up and down in 2 days and from there straight to Chopi.
Posted Jul 24, 2013 4:59 pm

JakePisco   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2013


Climbed Pisco via normal route with my partner Jacek. Wonderful conditions and amazing views. The most difficult bit was a moraine with sand and loose stones.
Posted Jul 9, 2013 8:41 am

cyffredinolA lovely climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012


I had precisely zero mountaineering experience but was in good shape and well acclimatized after two weeks trekking in the area. Fellow trekkers convinced me that really this was a suitable peak for a beginner like me (with a guide). I went with Galaxia as their rates were reasonable and our guide was excellent. The first day, took the bus up and hiked in to the Refugio. I highly recommend staying there as the food is good and a warm bunk is way more comfortable than a chilly tent (after two weeks of treking I really appreciated this!). Got up at midnight and left at 1 am. Summitted at around 7 am after seemingly endless trudging in the dark. My friends were right, there was nothing technical about this climb and it was totally appropriate for a beginner with a guide. Definitely would not have gone without a guide or unroped due to the presence of crevasses. Fantastic view from the summit. The walk back down the glacier was a delight. Crossing the moraine on the way back was exhausting, it seemed like it would never end. Got back to the Refugio before noon and spent the rest of the day catching up on sleep! The mountain is said to be very popular but we encountered only one other group, and this was the high season, so I guess popular is relative.
Posted Apr 28, 2013 11:55 pm

puddlecruiserRe: Normal Route


Curious if you felt there was a significant risk doing this as a solo climb on the glacier, or if it's not really an issue to go solo on Pisco?
Posted Apr 24, 2013 10:49 pm

paulparkieAll to ourselves  Sucess!


Clear skies, strong winds, worth the effort.
Posted Nov 12, 2012 4:30 pm

AlbertoRampiniStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 1998


Wonderful day!
Posted Aug 30, 2012 5:01 pm

Viewing: 1-20 of 68 « PREV 1 2 3 4 NEXT » 
[ Return to 'Pisco Oeste (Western Pisco)' main page ]