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ElCapitanKoolAidA great intro to Peru  Sucess!

ElCapitanKoolAid

My first mountain in Peru.
Posted May 22, 2006 4:07 am

Tomás BlázquezConditions have changed!

Tomás Blázquez

To climb the normal route, you have to be careful with a 50 metres section where you will find ice (50º). To descent this section you have to use the rope!
Posted Feb 15, 2006 11:13 pm

missadventureRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: july 24 2003

missadventure

i got the trots and had to bag the effort - gotta say the hut was really nice, we were camping out, but the guys who work there let me hang out all day and made me cup after cup of mate tea while i waited for my companions...peruvian hospitality is the best
Posted Feb 8, 2006 11:35 pm

FuseRoute Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: Nov. 02  Sucess!

Fuse

Left the Refugio at 1am, reached the Col at sunrise. Traversed 50 degree slopes just up from the Col and placed a few screws and pickets. Summited in a whiteout. Sun returned, we descended in mash potatoes. Overall very enjoyable.
Posted Nov 20, 2005 11:29 pm

urbanauticRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: early July 2003  Sucess!
different from other contributors, that time we had no problems with steep ice. The snow was rather hard firn with a 5 co cover of new snow. After good aclimatisation while trekking in Peru and climbing in Bolivia, we found Pisco quite easy, good aclimatisation climb. We did not use ice axes although we had them. Bigger problem than a 3 m steeper firn was a hidden crevasse in front of it. But with a little bit of alertness this was no problem. Problem with Pisco is that thanks to no technical difficulties and good services like refugio and donkeys there are too many absolutely nonexperienced turists. I believe that this service and jumarring after a guide is not mountaineering. I do my ascents with alpin style - sport and if I am not succefull due to weather or my condition I have to try next time. Only my opinion
Posted Oct 18, 2005 6:46 am

Peak_BaggerRoute Climbed: SW Slopes Date Climbed: July 19 2005  Sucess!

Peak_Bagger

Great views from the top of this one, Artesan especially. Nice route too, the wall is a good intro to tech climbs in the Blanca. But beware of the crowds, inexperienced climbers, and inconsiderate guides. Our team waited nearly an hour as there were nearly 30 people at the wall. I watched as 3 rope teams tried to ascend all at the same time. I forgot my helmet and got hit in the head by a large chunk of ice. Other than this part the route is ok.
Posted Sep 9, 2005 4:55 pm

GlennMerrillRoute Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: July 17, 2005  Sucess!

GlennMerrill

Great view of surrounding peaks. Skipped the base camp and went straight to the moraine camp.
Posted Aug 7, 2005 11:53 pm

soslawRoute Climbed: South West Slope Date Climbed: June 25, 2005  Sucess!

soslaw

Summited with Andre on a relatively clear and calm morning. Views of the surrounding peaks of the Cordillera Blanca are incredible. With a 60 meter, 50-60 degree pitch the route's grade should be increased to AD+.
Posted Jul 5, 2005 5:38 pm

davichoverdeRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: June 18, 2005
Our climbing team as well as others would change the rating for this climb from PD to AD because of the 50º pitch on the ice wall which is close to the summit. I was not disappointed at not reaching the goal since the view of all the sorrounding area is fantastic. Huandoy, Artesonraju, Chopicalqui, etc. Would't mind going back again but with better ice climbing equipment.
Posted Jul 2, 2005 7:20 am

foolscongressRoute Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: 18 July 2002  Sucess!

foolscongress

Summited with my brother and some friends after two weeks of bad weather defeated us in the Paron Valley. Thought for a minute the direct south face would be nice, then watched the whole thing avalanche. We took the regular route to the top, and it was a long day for me. Left the meadow by the hut at 4 a.m. and didn't get back until 6 p.m. Beautiful mountain with spectacular views north and south. As has been mentioned, the last 50 meters was a little spicier than advertised.
Posted Feb 1, 2005 7:24 pm

amcfarreRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: June 14, 2004  Sucess!

amcfarre

Walked to Pisco's base camp as an extension of the Santa Cruz trek. Great first views of Pisco from the top of the pass. Being the dry season, our trek had constant clouds and rain nearly every day. But the rain and snow at base camp stopped and our summit day was perfectly clear. Great views!



Never climbed this mountain before 2004, but I can say it was harder than the guide books said.



Pictures and journals online at:

http://mcfarren.info/adam/outdoor/trekking/peru2004/
Posted Jul 15, 2004 5:04 pm

tiefenthalerRoute Climbed: SW-slopes Date Climbed: 04 July 2004  Sucess!

tiefenthaler

As already said in the previous posts, Pisco is not a simple stroll anymore. When leading the steep ice pitch 2 ice-tools are recommended strongly. Should be rated harden than PD.
Posted Jul 5, 2004 7:23 pm

thomas.schmeidlRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 4. July 2004  Sucess!

thomas.schmeidl

After 10cm of snow at the base camp the day before we had a nice climb.

At the moment Pisco should be graded harder than PD (see previous post).
Posted Jul 5, 2004 12:46 pm

Steve PritchardRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 22 June 2004  Sucess!

Steve Pritchard

Before attempting Pisco rumours abound that there was a change to the route, and that 2 ice tools are required. The night before we summited I met a British MIC who said that there was a section equivalent to Scottish grade 3 ice.



The majority of the route was straightforward, but there was a section of steep snow and ice to traverse. This was for about 45m of 50 degree slope, mainly underneath a serac. I found it quite precarious, having little steep ice experience. A girl turned back the previous day, saying she had no ice climbing experience. However my partners (who found it easy) put in an ice screw to protect this awkward traverse, and there was a snow stake in place before the straight up 50 degree climb. I only used one ice tool.



Just short of the summit the track straddles a cornice crack and I would advise staying to the right on the way up and the left on the way down. A good climb but from my limited experience pérhaps harder than a PD.
Posted Jun 23, 2004 5:00 pm

jamesfeldmannRoute Climbed: Dog route Date Climbed: July 19, 2002  Sucess!

jamesfeldmann

After two weeks of poor conditions over around Paron and Artesonraju, friends and I regrouped in Huaraz before humbling ourselves with this peak. Damn fine to be atop and looking over into the Paron Valley. Damn fine to be there any which way. Crevasses were just about a problem, but still hop-able.



Pisco and Tambo (seek and ye shall find), don't leave Peru without 'em.
Posted Oct 14, 2003 2:52 pm

Jim ClarkeRoute Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: 6/28/02  Sucess!

Jim Clarke

A somewhat boring acclimatization peak. The moraine makes for a complete beatdown on the way back. Ascending the direct face and its couliors is a better way to go.
Posted Sep 30, 2003 10:20 am

sherpalitoRoute Climbed: ruta normal with official peruvian mt guide Date Climbed: 02 sept 2003  Sucess!

sherpalito

Straightforwarding 03day climb. Started 03 AM from BC besides refugio. Summited 08.00 AM. Some clear but deep crevasses some half hour before the summit. Snowbridge gone so we had to leave to ruta normal and climb steeply via the rocky pillar to rejoin the ruta normal under the summit.



Breathtaking views from the summit. Get there before the clouds obscur everything. Absolutely Awesome !

The steep 1,5 climb from Cebollapampa to the BC besides the Refugio takes quite a lot of energy if you do carry all your stuff. Plenty of donkeys to rent at cebollapampa. Small stream at BC and stone toilets.

The walk from lower BC besides the refugio to the snowline is quite long (1,5-2 hrs) in the dark so it might be a good idea to use the small advanced BC with few water (laguna at 10-15 minutes)



Enjoy the pics at www.pbase.com/sherpalito



steven

Posted Sep 25, 2003 10:50 am

e_wireRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: June 2003

e_wire

Again, no summit... At least the view was quite dramatic (see pictures)! Left the refuge at 2am, traversed the moraine field and got to the glacier at sunrise time, without the sunrise... it was snowing like crazy. Met a bunch of Austrians that we followed to the col between Huandoy and Pisco. Still snowing, so we go up a bit higher (till 5400m) and decide to turn around since we can't see anything.
Posted Jul 25, 2003 10:04 am

Tom FralichRoute Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: July 7, 2003  Sucess!

Tom Fralich

Climbed to the summit in 6 hrs after a night at the excellent refuge at 4665m. By sleeping and eating at the refuge, we were able to carry minimal weight and complete the climb in only 2 days. The refuge is a little expensive ($30/night with dinner and breakfast), but it sure made life easy. Nice route with a few crevasses which we easily stepped over. Views were great until the usual clouds rolled in at 10AM.
Posted Jul 9, 2003 7:17 am

maxRoute Climbed: Normal (SW) Date Climbed: July 1999  Sucess!
Pisco gave us a good training and acclimatisation before we climbed Alpamayo and Huascaran
Posted May 13, 2002 1:01 pm

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