Pisco Oeste (Western Pisco) Climber's Log
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|tiefenthaler||Route Climbed: SW-slopes Date Climbed: 04 July 2004|
|As already said in the previous posts, Pisco is not a simple stroll anymore. When leading the steep ice pitch 2 ice-tools are recommended strongly. Should be rated harden than PD.|
|Posted Jul 5, 2004 7:23 pm|
|thomas.schmeidl||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 4. July 2004|
|After 10cm of snow at the base camp the day before we had a nice climb.|
At the moment Pisco should be graded harder than PD (see previous post).
|Posted Jul 5, 2004 12:46 pm|
|Steve Pritchard||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 22 June 2004|
|Before attempting Pisco rumours abound that there was a change to the route, and that 2 ice tools are required. The night before we summited I met a British MIC who said that there was a section equivalent to Scottish grade 3 ice.|
The majority of the route was straightforward, but there was a section of steep snow and ice to traverse. This was for about 45m of 50 degree slope, mainly underneath a serac. I found it quite precarious, having little steep ice experience. A girl turned back the previous day, saying she had no ice climbing experience. However my partners (who found it easy) put in an ice screw to protect this awkward traverse, and there was a snow stake in place before the straight up 50 degree climb. I only used one ice tool.
Just short of the summit the track straddles a cornice crack and I would advise staying to the right on the way up and the left on the way down. A good climb but from my limited experience pérhaps harder than a PD.
|Posted Jun 23, 2004 5:00 pm|
|jamesfeldmann||Route Climbed: Dog route Date Climbed: July 19, 2002|
|After two weeks of poor conditions over around Paron and Artesonraju, friends and I regrouped in Huaraz before humbling ourselves with this peak. Damn fine to be atop and looking over into the Paron Valley. Damn fine to be there any which way. Crevasses were just about a problem, but still hop-able.|
Pisco and Tambo (seek and ye shall find), don't leave Peru without 'em.
|Posted Oct 14, 2003 2:52 pm|
|Jim Clarke||Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: 6/28/02|
|A somewhat boring acclimatization peak. The moraine makes for a complete beatdown on the way back. Ascending the direct face and its couliors is a better way to go.|
|Posted Sep 30, 2003 10:20 am|
|sherpalito||Route Climbed: ruta normal with official peruvian mt guide Date Climbed: 02 sept 2003|
|Straightforwarding 03day climb. Started 03 AM from BC besides refugio. Summited 08.00 AM. Some clear but deep crevasses some half hour before the summit. Snowbridge gone so we had to leave to ruta normal and climb steeply via the rocky pillar to rejoin the ruta normal under the summit.|
Breathtaking views from the summit. Get there before the clouds obscur everything. Absolutely Awesome !
The steep 1,5 climb from Cebollapampa to the BC besides the Refugio takes quite a lot of energy if you do carry all your stuff. Plenty of donkeys to rent at cebollapampa. Small stream at BC and stone toilets.
The walk from lower BC besides the refugio to the snowline is quite long (1,5-2 hrs) in the dark so it might be a good idea to use the small advanced BC with few water (laguna at 10-15 minutes)
Enjoy the pics at www.pbase.com/sherpalito
|Posted Sep 25, 2003 10:50 am|
|e_wire||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: June 2003|
|Again, no summit... At least the view was quite dramatic (see pictures)! Left the refuge at 2am, traversed the moraine field and got to the glacier at sunrise time, without the sunrise... it was snowing like crazy. Met a bunch of Austrians that we followed to the col between Huandoy and Pisco. Still snowing, so we go up a bit higher (till 5400m) and decide to turn around since we can't see anything.|
|Posted Jul 25, 2003 10:04 am|
|Tom Fralich||Route Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: July 7, 2003|
|Climbed to the summit in 6 hrs after a night at the excellent refuge at 4665m. By sleeping and eating at the refuge, we were able to carry minimal weight and complete the climb in only 2 days. The refuge is a little expensive ($30/night with dinner and breakfast), but it sure made life easy. Nice route with a few crevasses which we easily stepped over. Views were great until the usual clouds rolled in at 10AM.|
|Posted Jul 9, 2003 7:17 am|
|max||Route Climbed: Normal (SW) Date Climbed: July 1999|
|Pisco gave us a good training and acclimatisation before we climbed Alpamayo and Huascaran|
|Posted May 13, 2002 1:01 pm|
|felix||Route Climbed: SW-Ridge (normal) Date Climbed: September 1997|
|The last peak in Peru for enjoying the beautiful peruvian mountains. Started early and had a fine time at the peak. Descend was not problematic.|
|Posted May 13, 2002 4:34 am|