Piz Bernina Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007
|Climbed the Bianco ridge from the Tschierva hut and crossed over to the Marco e Rosa hut. Crowded but nice.|
|Posted Aug 15, 2007 7:42 am|
|grynning||Biancograt tour/retour |
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2007
|Very nice and scenic tour. We downclimbed the ridge and went all the way back to Pontresina (this is a looong walk). I would instead recommend to go over to the Marco Rosa hut and do the Piz Palü or some other mountain up there... Cheers|
|Posted Jul 31, 2007 10:36 am|
|mulidivarese||Alpinism Course 2007 |
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2007
|The last peack of 3 days of wonderfull climbing on the group.|
From Marco e rosa to the top in 2 hours, than we descended to Morterasch by the Fortezza ridge. Very crowded there.
|Posted Jul 9, 2007 3:00 am|
|julesblaidd||From Marco e Rosa|
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2007
|Unfortunatelly a strong fog and snowing was coming upon us when we were 120m under the summit. So we turned back because we had to go down on the day of summit assault. But it was a beautiful trip and before the fog we could take many nice photos.|
I think I will try it again.
|Posted Jul 2, 2007 1:48 pm|
|Gripped||Traverse via Biancograt|
|A must do with a couple of enjoyable bivies and a storm.|
|Posted Sep 15, 2006 2:25 pm|
|Michael Graupe||From Marco E Rosa Hut Date climbed: July 1986|
|After the traverse of Piz Palu I climbed Piz Bernina from the Marco E Rosa hut the same day. While on the summit, clouds moved in quickly and right after I got back to the hut all hell broke loose. Spent the next two days in severe storms in the hut (mostly sleeping). On the third day the morning was clear and all six of us who got trapped in the hut roped together to find the route back via Bellavista Terrasse (huge crevasses) to the Fortezza ridge which was extremely challenging with all the fresh snow and ice. Just below the Fortezza ridge it started raining again.|
|Posted Mar 14, 2006 2:58 am|
|aquariusz||Route Climbed: normal route from Campo Moro Date Climbed: 2005 - July|
|I reached the peak alone from the Italian side. Though it was a fantastic experience I don't recommend it (to climb alone ) to anyone. It is not a characteristic peak but the panorama is awesome ! :)|
|Posted Sep 15, 2005 3:42 am|
|alpspitze||Route Climbed: Spalla Grat Date Climbed: August 8, 1998|
|One of my most memorable Alps. Went up Piz Palu the day before, both days with t-shirt weather. St. Moritz is a great little Swiss town.|
|Posted Sep 13, 2005 3:12 pm|
|Pierre smetsers||Route Climbed: Biancograt from Tschiervahut Date Climbed: 26 july 2005|
|Great, just great. Its a long day. We (Waldo, Karel, Reinier & me) needed 14hours, started from Tschiervahut 4.00. to Marco & Rosa hut 18.00 the weather was ok. the route very different rock, snow and ice.|
|Posted Sep 6, 2005 5:17 pm|
|Franz77||Route Climbed: Biancograt from Tschierva hutte and down to Marco&Rosa hutte and Fortezza Date Climbed: 17 July 2004|
|We were me, Costa and Mauri. Weather a little cloudy but there was also sun. Great emotions on the ridge! Fresch snow from Piz Bianco to Piz Bernina. We slept to Marco & Rosa hutte with our friends coming from Italian side Carla and Catena. The day after till Palù and then down to Morteratschgletscher through the fortezza ridge.|
|Posted Feb 10, 2005 3:17 am|
|usarock69||Date Climbed: July 1997|
|This was our 5th day in the Alps, and after summiting other peaks days earlier, we were in excellent condition, therefore had no problem to get to the top. We enjoyed the glaciers and the ridge. One of my greatest climbs.|
|Posted Nov 3, 2004 7:17 pm|
|Flachlandtiroler||Route Climbed: Normal route (Cresta Spalla) from Val Malenco Date Climbed: August 29th 2004|
|Started at 4AM from Rif. Marinelli. 30' scrambling to Col Marinelli Occ., then down to Upper Scercsen glacier. Bergschrund at the upper end of the aper glacier secured with chains followed by 15m ladder and a short ferrata type passage. Prone to stonefall unless you're first ;-) Wouldn't recommend the neighboring Canalone Güzza in summer, everyone seems to use the ferrata.|
Reached rebuilt Rif. Marco e Rosa after 3h within foggy, but calm weather. Broad track leads across snowfields up to La Spedla; two rocky sections with one or two pitches each had nearly no snow, crux was about UIAA II+ or III -- several anchors for belay and rings for rappell available. Afterwards narrow + exposed crest leads to Piz Bernina summit, unfortunately without views for us. 2h from Marco e Rosa; descent took even longer due to traffic...
Biancograt was also made that day, we encountered a (rather quick) team that did Tschierva hut - summit in less than 7h.
We made all the way down to the italian side same day and reached parking at Campo Moro at 9PM. Nice + varied trip with long descent, but less frequented than access from Switzerland.
|Posted Sep 6, 2004 5:41 am|
|Artoirius||Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: Aug. 10, 2004|
|We started at Rif. Marinelli-Bombardieri. We walked via Passo Marinelli occident through upper Scerscen glacier to the Fuorcla Crast' Agüzza. After a very steep ice climb and some 200m of scrambling we reached Rif. Marco-e-Rosa. From there on it was some 400m of climbing on the Spalla ridge to the summit. |
A really nice climb, on a very exposed spalla ridge.
|Posted Aug 14, 2004 8:48 am|
|Lorenz||Route Climbed: Biancograt Date Climbed: 27 June 2004|
|beautiful ridge route, perhaps the best one on central Alps. Excellent conditions, way back passing thourgh the Marco e Rosa refuge and down to the Morteratsch.|
|Posted Jul 8, 2004 5:12 am|
|andrea.it||Route Climbed: normal from marcorosa hut Date Climbed: august 2001|
|Beautiful mountain,but the refuge staff is too aggressive!!!Next time i will sleep in a crevasse..|
|Posted May 11, 2004 11:09 am|
|George66||Route Climbed: Bianco ridge Date Climbed: Sep-1994|
|just great ...|
|Posted Jan 21, 2004 7:23 am|
|risch||Route Climbed: Spalla ridge with skis, Biancoridge, Westface Date Climbed: Several times|
|This is one of my favorit summits in the Alps. |
You can climb Piz Bernina by skis, climb one of the most famous ridge in the Alps (Bianco) or climb it over the hidden west- icewall.
|Posted Jan 12, 2004 3:33 am|
|Velebit||Route Climbed: From Campo Moro via Marco e Rosa hut Date Climbed: August 11 2003|
|Unfortunately I had to give up 150m bellow the summit. Frequent climbers of Bernina say this is worst year in decades to climb Bernina because there is least snow so some really exposed rocks are now dry. Rocks were falling every few minutes so I decided not to risk together with 3 other friends in our 6 member party. I have to go back again. I guess it was much better to go in July or even June and not this late in season. After deciding not to go we walked around the peak and enjoyed some exceptional views of Bellavista ridge.|
Anyway, we approached Bernina from Campo Moro on Italian side and slept in Marco e Rosa hut. Needed 9 hours to reach hut. Trail is very long but so beautiful with amazing views. Peak of the route is ofcourse crossing of upper Scersen glacier and ferrata climb to Marco e Rosa. Just bellow the entrance to ferrata there are some amazing crevasses.
|Posted Aug 16, 2003 7:30 am|
|Frank||Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: August 2000|
|After planning a trip to summit the Bernina from Marco e Rosa hut, we had to change plans because of running out of holiday. Incredible view at a perfect.|
|Posted Feb 23, 2003 7:53 am|
|Vinny||Route Climbed: Biancograt Date Climbed: July 2002|
|A great couple days out with Doug.|
No room at the inn (Tschierva was booked out and our optimism was dissappointed)- but good news was that we had a full moon. So after a rushed Soup dinner- we charged on.
Of course the approach to the col was all in the shade on the Piz Bianco itself but the surrounding mtns were brilliant. I would advise against soloing the 40 ice with a petzl LED headlamp but it does work.
Including 3 bivouac attempts- we couldn't sit still for more than an hour- we climbed tha actual snow ridge by sunrise with blue sky- truly heavenly.
Halfway a long the rock ridge to the true summit we got past by two guided parties (who had slept in beds the night before)- who really moved with a short rope technique that I must practise.
The marco y Rosa hut is under development, so though it has a great location- I would advise against it.
The next day we climbed Piz Bellavista direct north ridge and bailed off the Palu ridge.
I would recommend Diavolezza over Morderatsch/Boval exits.
|Posted Aug 22, 2002 9:03 am|