Mighty pillar, angle of the ridge watershed between the Forcola d’Argent and the West Forcola Zupò.
It has a swiss side that raises from the highest stands of Glacier Morteratsch with a coating of ice and snow, elegant, but with little imposing.
It contrasts, the rocky Italian side, consisting of a western wall and a southern spur.
The western wall is a trapezium, furrowed by ledges. The red southern spur, is a triangular compact cliff, culminating to a lower second summit.
It is regarded as the higher twin Piz Zupò , with forms the chain of peaks separated from Piz Bernina, including the Cresta Guzza, Bellavista and Piz Palù.
Although part of the Bernina group, it is considered slightly apart and, second in height only to Piz Zupò (3996m).
The mountain is geologically formed by three ridges. The east and the west form two forks that connect it to its twin Piz Zupò and Cresta Guzza(besides being border ridges); instead the south, is a ridge wherefrom various branches lead to Fellaria glacier.
Its northern side cloaked in ice is very similar to its neighbour Zupò, and that makes them easily confused.
The summit had over the years various names including: ”Monte Rosso di Dentro”, ”Piz Blondina”, ”Piz Ladners” and only in the last century “Piz d’Argent”(argent means silver).
Climb HistoryFirst ascent
Northeast ridge - C.Grass/Seiler/Seldeneck/J.B.Walter - 1869
Southeast flank - A.Corti/G.Vernoni - 17/08/1910
East edge of SSE ridge - A.Bonacossa/R.Rossi - 11/09/1911
West wall - G.Soncelli/I.Dell'avo - 20/08/1937
NNO ridge - A.Corti/G.Dell'andrio - 10/08/1920
Main routesNNW ridge
From ref.Marco e Rosa. The most common route from Italy and Swiss. Easy ascent on ice (F easy).
From ref.Marinelli. The route follow the steepy glacier beetwen the Piz d'Argent and the Piz Zupò. The route change every year. The glacier is furrowed by many serracs and crevasses. Not advisable (AD quite difficult).
From ref.Marinelli. Very long and charming route. Very good rock quality.
Advisable and probably the best (TD very difficult up to 5° UIAA).
From ref.Marinelli. (AD+/D-).
From ref.Marinelli. Very dangerous(D difficult).
This is the ridge that connect to Piz Zupò. Crossed along the traverse of the two summits. (F easy).
Approach to the areaFrom Italy:
The best approach from Italy start from the ref.Marinelli. Useful for all the summits of Bernina group.
It can be reached from the lakes of Campomoro with the path n.5 in 3hours.
Or from the lakes of Campomoro with the path n.7 in 5hours (longer and not advisable).
Ref.Marinelli is placed at the head of Valmalenco, but not visible from the valley.
Valmalenco is a branch of the bigger Valtellina, reachable by car and busses from Sondrio, Milano and Bernina pass(CH).
Ref.MarcoRosa is also useful, but commonly used for the ascent of Piz Bernina.
Piz d'Argent as the neighbour summits, lead the glacier of Morteratsch.
Ref.Diavolezza should be the easyest start point for overall, thanks to a cablecar service.
Otherwise, from ref.Boval at the base of Morteratsch glacier.
Both places are reachable from Pontresina/S.Moritz
Huts and Bivouacsref.MarcoRosa:
3597m - CAI Sondrio - 48+12(winter)places - open july/sept - tel.0039-0342-51.53.70
2813m - CAI Sondrio - 210+14(winter)places - open may/july/sept - tel.0039-0342-51.15.77
2636m - CAI Carate B. - 23 places - open july/sept - tel.0039-0342-45.25.60
3546m - CAI Sondrio - 4 places - open all year
2495m - SAC Sektion Bernina CH - 100+12(winter)places - open june/october
2973m - private - 98 places - open all year - tel.0041-81- 84.26.205
Books and MapsBooks:
"Bernina & Bregaglia Selected Climbs"
Alpine Club (http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/)
Gebietsführer für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Hochalpinisten
Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München
"Guida dei monti d'Italia"
TCI Bernina Silvio Saglio
"Bernina e Disgrazia" n.2
G.Miotti - Edizioni Melograno
Kompass n.93 - Bernina e Disgrazia
Landeskarte der Schweiz n.268 - Julierpass